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My D14 used to do this too! Lol can't remember exactly what the revs were at as it was an automatic, but if using the gearshift manually when giving it beans there was a distinct change of note from the engine. That wee engine used to spin up the revs really nicely.

Yeah it’s nice! He did a 2inch cat back for me and welded on a backbox I already had, had a nicer bassy tone and seems to flow a little better which is nice! He wouldn’t cat delete it which is fair I can just do that myself when I get round to it, and all in all it wasn’t the most expensive job, was more than I wanted to pay if I’m honest, but a lot less than another place I had a quote from so I can’t moan too much right! Only issue is that I told him it’s blowing from somewhere I just don’t know where, and whether or not he actually checked I don’t know but he said he couldn’t hear or see it, yet it remains so I dunno. He said it could be the thickness of the Chinese manifold I have on, because it’s that thin it’s noisy, but I find that hard to believe if I’m honest. I don’t think it’s the manifold, I don’t think it’s where the mani meets the downpipe, so now that only leaves where the downpipe meets the cat. Hopefully when I decat it, it goes away then! Still got a huge parts pile to get fitted, managed to find a zs180 rear roll bar and all the fittings with it for quite cheap, new front wishbones and hard race compliance bushes, front ball joints, track rods, trailing arm polybushes, the 282 for the front and braided lines, the z6 intake mani and fuel rail, some Chinese ‘Bride’ universal seat rails to fit ‘Bride’ seats, coilovers, lca’s and toe arms. Think that’s about it…. Ooh and a new head unit haha. Annnnd new rocker cover and gasket when it gets here. Hmm, tegiwa brake stopper for the MC. Then I think that’s fully it! Got that different shifter set up all sorted too, not sure I’ve seen anyone else with it on as of yet? I’ll try get some photos and give it a little review. Fully worth it though, better than any generic short shifter / kswap replica ones that are about. Also that reminds me I have to fit the detent springs in the gearbox too…..

Hi guys! Anyone can point me where I can find base map for D15Z8 ecu? .bin file ideally

What a cracking meet! Some stunning cars here and big variety too. Loved the deck ghat was there!😉

Decent Thursday evening out for free 😎

Little bit of work on the old girl yesterday. Had a new washer motor as the screen wash wasn't working, and mot is due. Also had a new arch liner to stick in while I was on as the old one had suffered from arch rub. Stuck the new motor in, and nothing came out. Could hear the motor going well, but no squirts. Started tracking back from the nozzles to see what was going on, and turns out that a little non return valve was sticking. Tried to fettle it but it was still sticking, so ended up taking the gubbins out of the valve so it was basically a pipe joint... Works better than they ever have now... Finally see what everyone sees in the jazz nozzles. Also finally got around to sorting out the surface rust around the bonnet hinges. Cleaned it all up and chipped off a bit more old seam sealer. Used some kurust rust converter, then painted it with black hammerite. Popped the scuttle panel back on with a bead of silicone along the top as the foam strip that's supposed to stop water running down behind it off the windscreen had almost totally disintegrated. There's a bit of surface rust appearing on the top of the panel where the blower motor is, but couldn't really get to that yesterday. There's hardly anything mind, but it's one to keep an eye on. Was nice to see all of the underseal looking nice and fresh underneath and behind the arch liner. Didn't take any pics of anything as I was cracking on and it kept raining on me.

Lol yeah, front has to come off for most jobs! It's a tight fit in the engine bay, so simplest jobs involve a strip down of something or other!

Lol deffo! Saved my bacon that time that's for sure! Had DD for her longest drive in a year and a half today, wee trip to the East Coast where we used to live. Have to say loving how she's driving, so smooth and perfect. Enjoying life in the deck again.🥰

Everything my old neighbour used to do on his seemed to involve dismantling half the front end of the car 😂

Yey for that guide... It's a useful one

Can deffo tell I had way of building them when look at my new one

Yeah, had a look at videos on it and massive job, beyond me without a proper ramp. Gutted as Poppy was driving so well too, but knew this was looming so no big surprise when it finally failed. DD is loving life back on the road though, glad she came to the rescue! Hate not having a car!

Yay! Thanks to Civic5 SRS reset guide, all fixed! Happy days! Job for tomorrow is having a look at the noisy as hell rear wiper!

Yeah, nice to be able to drive her again mate, missed her so much! Been out today to do a wee job that's been bugging me for years! I got the ITR DC2 steering wheel retrimmed to match the rest of the interior years ago, and when I fitted it I must of not lined the self cancelling pins for the indicators correctly. Meant turning left, indicator wouldn't self cancel, turning right it was constantly cancelling. So, been out to the garage and got the wheel off. Sure enough, pins weren't even close to lined up! Doh! Changed the black dash surround that goes around the instrument cluster as I'd drilled a wee hole in the original one to fit a phone holder that I no longer have. Thought might aswell get a replacement (thank you Marcus!) while I still can. Git it all back together, indicators cancel like they should and no more wee hole in the dash to bug my OCD! Unfortunately, the bloody SRS light is on now! Not sure why, had battery disconnected etc and all the plugs are back in? Gonna search the forum, sure we've got a guide to reset it. Have disconnected the battery and pulled the fuses for srs and the ecu, hoping that might sort it.

Glad you got the blow sorted, a chisel and the big bangy-hitty thing can solve many, many problems! System looks Tidy mate, liking that. Need to do a wee video of how it sounds when you get a chance

And this is the new shifter setup also, would recommend this over the ktuned style ones or oem bent ones any day! Super notchy shifts, makes everything nice and tight again, adjustable everywhere apart from height but sits perfectly where it is for me. Plus, all the original trim fits back over it nicely too

Gave the 282’s a little bit of a clean up and paint now they’re ready too! Got very lucky finding them for 40 quid!

Not too sure why the last 2 photos are upside down! But shows the cat back anyway, 2 inch, rear res and exhaust tip I had welding on, sits really well and no wobble anywhere which is always nice!

So miss this car

Aw man, that's a big bill for a clutch! Everything I hear about minis is that they're a massive ball ache to work on / get the right parts for. At least DD is back in action 😎

Glad to hear that the deck is back on the road.. Happy days 😎

I'm probably imagining things but after hearing it in every possible intake configuration I have, the questions start rolling. Any time I'm flat on the accelerator and cross the 4500/4600 rpm threshold, the sound very clearly changes tone, not in any way same as a real VTEC, but still in the same kind of sound. It also sounds funny and conspiracy-y because 4600rpm is where peak torque is produced on the D14a8 haha. Still, this is no way a serious post, more like a gimmick for fellow D14 owners to try and find it in their cars and confirm it, have fun lol

And she's done it!! Finally got DD back on the road, passed her MOT on Wednesday with just an advisory on the n/s/f track rod end but knew about it before hand so going to get it replaced. So happy to be driving her again, been sooo long! Not got a photo as been constant rain here but here's a recent one for prosperity! Oh, roof rack is now off and her sunroof deflector is back on😃

Wow! That's a whole load of nice parts and work right there! Regarding the blow in the exhaust, the join either side of the CAT would be the first place to check imo. Could be the flanges are a bit crusty, so unless they gave it a good clean up first would most likely start blowing there. If you can get it jacked up high enough, could hold a small piece of newspaper at the joins and see if it "flutters" when it's running. Was the manifold already fitted prior to the rest of the exhaust or did they fit that at same time? Looking forward to the pics mate!

If you want to prevent the crank from turning, for example to undo the crank bolt, then you can either get a special tool (see picture), or undo the dust protection plate for the clutch and either jam a sturdy screwdriver or something else against the teeth on the flywheel to keep it in place. But that bolt is often super tight (>200NM torque), so beware when you go for the flywheel route!

Ahh thank you! The mounts I ended up getting are different to those ones again, seems to be quite a bit that either fits, doesn’t fit at all, or can be made to fit haha. The last photo there is of the bar on an mg zs for reference I found, looks like the mounts I have fit elsewhere, but I’ve seen this setup on an mb before so hoping everything will tie together nicely without me having to mess about too much! Also had to get the correct links for this setup too. Yeah the 24mm bar I got would have been overkill, I think the one I ordered is either 16 or 18mm so should be fine! Thanks for the reply though!

I fitted an EG6 rear ARB last year, using the 'same' OEM mounting hardware as you probably do. (They were pretty rusty before I restored them) In my case, there were small pre-drilled (and tapped!) holes next to the lower control arm mounts (center of the car) that I just cleaned up before I installed the brackets. But if I remember correctly, I indeed had to drill a pair of holes for one of the brackets' mounting points. I also used some sturdy metal tubing as spacers between the frame and the mounts to reinforce everything. Also, you gotta have a pair of rear lower control arms that actually have the required holes to fit your ARB to! And a bit of friendly advice on top - don't go with an ARB thicker than 15 or 16mm, because everything above that is going to tear our and completely wreck your rear frame without any reinforcement done to it to take the brunt of the force. Hardrace, Beaks and loads of other companies sell those kinds of reinforcement braces, some of which even come with their own mounting points for your ARB! :) Here is how everything looks now: Hope I could be of help! :)

Had the same issue a while ago. Engine ran fine and then suddenly - dead. You could even see the tach have a seizure a few moments before the engine died. My only fix was to get a new complete dizzy, as they don't sell just the pickups/sensors inside of them. Even a whole new coil and ECM module didn't help and I even tested out a different ECU altogehter. The problem is that most aftermarket dizzys for our Hondas are ... hot garbage, to be honest. If you buy a cheap-ish one, you'll quickly find yourself ordering the next one sooner than later. The only quality brand I've seen is based in the US, by the name of "Dragon Fire". I know, sounds kinda iffy, but their stuff even meets the IATF standard, meaning it really is better than all of that Chinesium-garbage off eBay, and I've been running it for almost half a year now without complaint! Costs a pretty penny, though. :/

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

^^^ agreed! an awesome build and so clean, shame I didn't get chance to meet you properly@Honda Paul

Just want to bump this up. Seen this in the flesh today and have to say this was prob one of the best civics on the stand IMO!

I have a very similar set up on my MB ( type r cams, skunk 2 inlet,skunk 2 70mm throttle body, 4-1 manifold,de-cat,cold air induction kit,full exhaust) currently I'm running a stock B18C4 ecu and she runs sweet as a nut with no engine management light on,drives fine and all I did was plug in the vacuum valve for the 2 stage inlet which is all you'll have left over from changing the inlet manifold As for ECU though - on the 2nd of September Performance Auto Works are fitting me a Hondata S300 ecu with slight wiring mods and then tuning the whole car on a dyno.i would recommend getting yours re mapped as I do feel mine is slightly holding back due to the amount of mods carried out. Ultimately it will run better with a re map! I'll let you know how I get on and then I'll be in a better place to advice

Thanks guys. The rear strut brace was for a DC2 Nik, had to modify it to fit mind but I'm prety sure it's making a big difference bearing in mind it's a 4 way mounted one front and rear braces where purchased from 933 Motorsport and front one only required minor adjustment to fit perfectly I love the MB's matt. As I've said before, best car Honda ever made so far! Plus there becoming more of rarity these days too....Specially tidy ones like on this site. As for the sale of my baby.........I've spent an absolute fortune on her and its taken me 18 months of my life to build. If I was to be perfectly honest I'd quite happily leave her in the garage and never even drive it,just polish her every weekend! But you never know when needs must Thanks again for all your comments, it's nice to talk to people who really appreciate what I've done and can share the same passion for these cars.