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  1. I'm new here and just wanted to show off my little Orleans blue baby. (The original headlights are in the trunk, untill I clear them up)
    5 points
  2. Hi, I'm Patrick and this is my '96 Fastback which bought in late 2019 as my first car. Or at least how it looked a few years ago. Lots of stuff has been done to it since then and I will try my best to dig up some pictures of the process as we catch up to the present. :) The previous owner, who bought it brand-new, was an old man and pretty much all the dents are his work, by the way. Just wanted to clarify. ;) It is (was) a bone stock, base-spec, MA8 with the optional 'Comfort' package installed from factory. Meaning it's got a 1.4l engine that makes 90hp, electrical windows in the front, power steering, A/C and no ABS, with drum brakes in the rear. Oh, and that atrocious fake wood that fools absolutely nobody and looks cheap as hell. What were they thinking? Oldest pictures I could find, was already on some lowering springs by then. Also removed some fugly flower-stickers from the doors and got rid of the 'Comfort' badges. Like every responsible young man before me, I of course immediately went ahead and installed some lowering springs and got myself a nice, quality exhaust. The springs are from Eibach and, if memory serves me right, the exhaust is made by a Polish company called 'Ulter'. We did some proper maintenance, though. You need a good foundation to build a house, right? That, and my old man never would have let me get away without doing some maintenance anyways. :P Beauty shot of the freshly unboxed exhaust. The exhaust arrived on a weekday at around 7PM and me and my old man got giddy like a bunch of kids on christmas eve as we put or grubby hands on it. We immediately went out into the freezing cold to get it installed ASAP. :D Roughly an hour later we were done and it felt like it was the coolest car on the planet for that moment. If I only knew what was to follow... ;) Might be able to find a video, but no promises. In the next episode...! Broke 18 year old me finally saves up enough money to get a set of wheels. And...! Something big on the horizon.
    4 points
  3. AKYs 1.4 sport - possibly breaking.
    4 points
  4. Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.
    4 points
  5. I picked up my mb4 a few months ago. I thought i would start a little thread where i post a few pics now and then.... The first few pics are from after coilovers and wheels. Unfortunatly my old phone died with the before pictures.. Currently i have installed coilovers, new set of wheels, custom "type r" grill and a few small things... Plans for next month is custom headlights (angel eyes & demon eyes) with app control if possible. Updates are gonna come when things are getting done slowly. If any questions, feel free to ask.
    3 points
  6. Sensor for the ir remote I believe.
    3 points
  7. Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.
    3 points
  8. Hey all! New here, although I see alot of posts are quite old, its cool to see people still active on these kinds of forums. I thought it would be a great place for information on potential mods, parts and specs regarding civic aerodecks. I know they are far more popular in the UK. Mine is actually the first one I've ever seen in person here in Ireland.
    3 points
  9. You can put lowering springs in B6 too. Bilstein told me you can use OEM springs or lowering springs. These shocks can take both. I installed the Eibach springs, and they are much better than the OEM springs. You can feel that the suspension works much better with the Eibach springs; I even find it more comfortable than the OEM ones, but I think it lowered a little more than I wanted in the front. At the back, it is very good. I have a friend with an EG Coupe with B8 and Eibach, and I feel it is more arsh compared to mine. I'm of the opinion that you shouldn't put EG stuff on MB when there are MB parts available because something has to change in that particular part; otherwise, they are both the same references. Don't use EK springs because the weight ratings are totally different. The spring plate is indeed a little bit small, but I have been running it for two years without a single problem. On the subject of brake lines, I have had mine secured by zip ties for almost two years without a single issue. Now I need to buy a front camber kit because the camber is at -2 degrees. This camber is a tire killer. I leave a picture of my Aerodeck with Bilstein B6 + Eibach Springs.
    3 points
  10. Got round to fitting the MG spoiler I got from Craig on here. Quick lick of plastidip and looks the part I reckon
    3 points
  11. Havent got a lot of photos but a few stickers here and there, New colored lights in the dashboard and a sexy photo in the end;)
    3 points
  12. Yeah it’s nice! He did a 2inch cat back for me and welded on a backbox I already had, had a nicer bassy tone and seems to flow a little better which is nice! He wouldn’t cat delete it which is fair I can just do that myself when I get round to it, and all in all it wasn’t the most expensive job, was more than I wanted to pay if I’m honest, but a lot less than another place I had a quote from so I can’t moan too much right! Only issue is that I told him it’s blowing from somewhere I just don’t know where, and whether or not he actually checked I don’t know but he said he couldn’t hear or see it, yet it remains so I dunno. He said it could be the thickness of the Chinese manifold I have on, because it’s that thin it’s noisy, but I find that hard to believe if I’m honest. I don’t think it’s the manifold, I don’t think it’s where the mani meets the downpipe, so now that only leaves where the downpipe meets the cat. Hopefully when I decat it, it goes away then! Still got a huge parts pile to get fitted, managed to find a zs180 rear roll bar and all the fittings with it for quite cheap, new front wishbones and hard race compliance bushes, front ball joints, track rods, trailing arm polybushes, the 282 for the front and braided lines, the z6 intake mani and fuel rail, some Chinese ‘Bride’ universal seat rails to fit ‘Bride’ seats, coilovers, lca’s and toe arms. Think that’s about it…. Ooh and a new head unit haha. Annnnd new rocker cover and gasket when it gets here. Hmm, tegiwa brake stopper for the MC. Then I think that’s fully it! Got that different shifter set up all sorted too, not sure I’ve seen anyone else with it on as of yet? I’ll try get some photos and give it a little review. Fully worth it though, better than any generic short shifter / kswap replica ones that are about. Also that reminds me I have to fit the detent springs in the gearbox too…..
    2 points
  13. Yeah, I agree - think it looks top now.
    2 points
  14. Hello, I've just got my Honda Civic Aerodeck 1.6LS import from Italy. I would like to know how much power steering fluid and brake fluid i have to buy so my mechanic can change them fully(steering fluid and the clutch and braking fluid).
    2 points
  15. so after my partners pug 106 quiksilver started have more problems then it was worth we sold it on. she wanted another civic as missed her ej9 and me having a civic didnt help. she wanted on bit bigger then the ej9 as kids now older so found a eu8 civic with 12 months mot and was in good shape. it was stock apart from some 17 inch alloys. i managed to find so ep3 type r bumpers and skirts cheap so got those. fitted front bumper and as rear bumper so to short for car i made plan to make rear lip fit. as the ep3 side skirt wasnt going fit and car already had side skirts i cut the end of the skirts off to extend rear lip. need fill join better but that be done in time. after more searching found so lowering springs, back box and projector headlights from a ep2 going cheap so had get them. once got took headlights apart and did inside black. fitted lowering spring and back box. we also debadged rear and wrapped chrome trim black and tinted rear lights. found a universal spoiler on ebay that looked like wud fit shape of car and was big enough for her. after abit i got some spray paint and painted rear lip and boot trim same colour as car. it little off but whole car needs deep clean. i picked up and carbon fiber exhuast tip as back box sat under bumper abit and didnt like that. finally then got the front bumper sprayed and put canards and splitter i made from spares and her owl fogs back in. few other bits car has is shark fin areil, rear bumper fins, wind deflectors and engine bay starting be sorted. still have few bits to sort
    2 points
  16. Yeah shadow grey it's called just finished it today on my lunch break lol apart from roof
    2 points
  17. Nice looking MB bud. The wiring info should be in the workshop manual that you can download from this site (in the downloads section of the menu) For the manual winders though, take a look on rimmerbros.com for mg rover ones... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID003613
    2 points
  18. Yup, deffo the sensor for the remote key fob.
    2 points
  19. Hey,.. erm yeah I did some more mods on the crown and got it all set up beautifully. Put some lovely 4 pot brakes on etc. then got a bit twitchy with it because everything is so expensive for those cars. Realised was gonna take 10k minimum really before I'd be remotely happy with performance etc, so I'd be into it for over 20k by that point. And also I drive so Infrequently when I do go out I want something fun to drive , which nice as it was, it wasn't a fun car. So sold it. Genuinely gutted I sold my mb6 actually. Moment of madness. So been in a bit of a rut and a bit grumpy about cars. But have baught an fnPoo with some nice mods on. And plan to put my stamp on that and do some track days etc next year.
    2 points
  20. Yeah, I've had that (on two decks now...) tends to be the seam sealer on the roof panel underneath the trim where the roof bars are. Hope you get it sorted
    2 points
  21. Haven't updated in a while, big upgrades to the car is a full vtis lip kit and full 2.5 exhaust system with 200 cell cat.... Sounds amazing now 😍
    2 points
  22. Hi there have a look at https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/. spoke directly with a guy from Planted technology and got the measurements. they are a direct fit as this Accord was the USDM MB if that makes sence
    2 points
  23. Had the same issue, fixed it by fabricating a set of roughly 15mm thick steel plates that go between the top of the shock assembly and the underside of the strut tower. Couldn't even drive into my garage anymore without scraping the front tow hooks. Now it sits at about the same height as before.
    2 points
  24. Hello everyone, This is my Honda Civic MB3, 90k miles. I just came across this forum today, is there any active members? It needs some work doing however its a blast to drive!
    2 points
  25. Got hold of a saloon lip kit got the front primed and test fitted I have since realised the rear is different so maybe need to extent it it just let someone else have it
    2 points
  26. olsits a bit nicer imo now. Drives better too.
    2 points
  27. Amazing work on making the new panels mate!
    2 points
  28. This is my bapmobile, 5 door 1.4s fastback. Neat little drive for what it is. I used to drive a 2004 Honda Accord before I moved here from the USA She came with a set of steel 185 14 inch wheels, but I found a set of 16" MG alloys that fit, so I she drives on a set of Toyo TR1s at 205/50/R16 I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder, and a few months ago I bypassed a section of the PAS line returning to the reservoir that had started leaking. Rimmerbros didn't have a replacement part so I ran a reinforced rubber hose back through to the reservoir. I'm currently in the process of installing a hardrace front uprated bushing suspension kit, and a couple pieces for the rear suspension as well. -Front- *Lower control arms + compliance bushing and ARB links *Upper control arms *Hardrace upper and lower ball joints *New front shocks *New hub and bearings *New drifeshafts *Brake caliper slide pin kit *New brake discs and pads -Rear- *Polyurethane bushing Lower control arms *Hardrace adjustable toe and camber links *I do have shocks for the rear but I haven't swapped over the coil yet I might invest in a new trailing arm bushing as well, as it's clearly an important piece of the rear geometry. Let me know what you think! I'll have to get some updated pictures once she is back on the ground
    2 points
  29. Cheers man! Yeah, the Nisan dealership in the town along the road from here are ace, have a really really good rep. Feel we can actually trust them, although still early doors yet i guess. But deffo been great with what they've done, and price wise for a dealership they're not too bad. The wrangle with ATS we didn't go any further (except some really nasty reviews left on all the review sites 😉 )as it was going to cost us even more money for a lawyer/start a case against them and they've already cost us enough as it is. Plus my mental health aint in a good place at the moment with stress/depression so didn't need the extra stress going to court would bring. However, have been slating them to everyone we know (and even foilk we don't know!) because one thing we've learned living in a wee village the Scottish borders is that word of mouth (aka jungle drums) spreads like wild fire here! So hoping to save other folk the same hassle and hopefully loose them a lot of business. Any luck, ATS will pull out of Gala. Oh, one wee update on Poppy........the chrome mirrors are gone! I decided I preferred the oem piano black ones so have swapped them about. It was also to get rid of this annoying little blue tit bird that kept landing on the car all day everyday because it's facinated by it's own reflection! It was funny to begin with, but after washing the car, the door was covered in bird shit within 20 mins! And that was a constant......go out and hose it off....20 mins later, covered again! Wee dafty! lol
    2 points
  30. Toyota Crown is an amazing car, loaded with kit and the ultimate cruise mobile. Can look so sweet modded too.
    2 points
  31. Ahh its gone now. New owner seems like will pamper it and just use for fun times. So happy about that. Im going to import a Totota crown athlete v estate. Bit old man ish. but always loved them and toyota are so well made. Absolutely love my Alphard.n
    2 points
  32. Hello all once again, i did the investigation regarding the scuttle panel. And needless to say i think i caught it in the nick of time although im still uncertain what lurks beneath the windscreen. I will be infact replacing this at somepoint later on in the project as it has delaminated at the bottom so my guess is water has gotten in and possibly caused a few issues however i did a bit of poking under the scuttle panel and everything all seems solid. I even got a camera underneath just to check and no signs of rust thankfully. However there are 2 patches that are on either side where the bonnet hinges are bolted to. So as a temporary measure i have just removed the rust used some Hydrate 80 and protected it with some etch primer. I will be returning to this and doing it properly with Epoxy primer and will probably just repaint the whole inner wings and arches alongside reseaming the seal that Honda did a recall on. I am just thankful that this was not holed otherwise it would be getting the MIG out again lmao. In other news i got a spare set of Lower Control Arms and have bought some new bushings to be installed, i will be getting these sand blasted and powder coated black so its all nice and original looking. All i need to do now is remove the bush sleeves... fun times
    2 points
  33. Not updated for a while. Poppy been doing daily duties well, not had any issues so well happy. MOT was going to run out while Gayles away on holiday in May so decided to put her in early so I don't end up with no car! lol Knew there was a wheel bearing on it's way out as could hear the droaning noise. Jacked her up and checked all 4 wheels.......front pass side had slight play, all the rest were fine. Thought I'd put her in anyways, see if she passed with the wheel bearing then I could just change it once i got paid. Well, that didn't go to plan! She passe the 1st mot we put her through a year ago fine. This year she failed on: N/S/F wheel bearing (which we expected anyways but chanced our mit) Front left to right brake pipe corroded to excess Front to rear Brake pipe corroded to excess and weeping. I too was weeping when i saw the bill! lol😆 To be fair, they were still the oem pipes so no shame to it really, and deffo not nthe worst MOT I've ever had. Quite pleased as everything else was fine and I hadn't seen the pipe weeping so glad they spotted that and fixed it. Got the garage to just do all the work as I don't have it in me at the moment, so was £350 plus the mot fee. And they got it all done that day for me (even staying past their closing time to complete it for me) so very happy. What a difference driving her now without that awful wheel bearing noise!! Poppy now back to daily duties and driving ace! Next job to do is on the interior as quite a few creaks/rattles/squeaks for the dash plastics now so going to remove all the trims and line the back of them with felt which will get rid of any unwanted noises. Got the big pack of felt (self adhesive so will make it easier to fit) here ready for the job. Just need to get my head in a better place so I can start it!
    2 points
  34. Oh, and as above, what's next!?? Dying to know! Whatever you decide to get, please do a build thread on here! I need my fix!
    2 points
  35. Ended up re doing it using the dye neat and from a pressure spray bottle, got the carpets and headlining done too, massive pain but looks way better. Just the cream/beige interior plastics to sort now
    2 points
  36. It's pretty bonkers tbf. Performance is next level But..... Sold now unfortunately. Chaps coming to pick it up next week. I am sad, but feel it's time to try something else.
    2 points
  37. Update to those following along with the project. Ive been round places to get some quotes for welding. turns out im looking at a ball park figure of £3000 to £3750 for welding which i was expecting due to the extent of the rust. Ill be getting the final piece of the puzzle soon which is a new wheel well section as mine has blown a hole where the spare wheel clamps to. In other news, I thought the backside of the rear sills would have been rotten or full of surface corrosion. The backside underneath the car seems to have had some sort of wax based underseal sprayed on which in fact has saved the car id say. The only places the rot has crept into were parts that were exposed to the elements. Thankfully finding this has gave me a big confidence boost in the car. So when it comes to stripping the rear suspension down i will remove all of this underseal treat any surface rust i find, Epoxy or Zinc prime all underneath, Upol Gravitex (still undecided on this as its a rubber coating) then paint silver and then clear wax all of underneath to prevent it happening again.
    2 points
  38. Thank you very much guys:) glad to hear you like it... Im gonna throw a few more pics in soon. Have gotten a few updates now.
    2 points
  39. Bit of post clean photo whore Was cold first thing, but it's lush out now.
    2 points
  40. Spent a bit of time fitting some roof rails to the wagon at the weekend (after ruining the roof with the bike incident) Had to chop the trim to fit around the feet for the rails which took most of the time (and trying to straighten out the part of the trim that was damaged in 'the incident...'). Need to get some front covers as they were missing, but the rails are like hen's teeth.
    2 points
  41. HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks
    2 points
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