m0l0t0v

d series. Everything has been removed. There is only one bolt left and it holds the shift arm in place. Looking at the workshop manual you don't remove that till after. I've removed the allen key bolt.

The bit circle in blue seems to be the issue. But I can't for the life of me see how that's meant to let the splines out of the box...

I'm supposedly at the easy part. I've done everything that needs to be done. in this guide: http://www.d-series.org/forums/transmission-alley/14079-diy-tranny-removal-input-shaft-bearing-change.html I'm on step 30. I've removed the interlocking bolt from outside the gearbox and the shift arm b bolt. However, no amout of wiggling is making the splines come out. I have removed the reverse gear and selector. Any tips/what am I doing wrong?!

Managed to get one in the end. Cheers boys.

So I just did a wee mistake and completely f**ked my rad. I guess the only positive side of this is I now have more room to work in since I'm taking the gearbox out... Civic mb3. Will rover rads and other mb rads fit?

Also, I hear people talk about the "throw out" bearing which I know is the clutch release bearing. How can I tell if I need to replace that too? I recently replaced the clutch (2 months ago now?) and it was the full kit including the bearing. But how can I tell if it's failed, just in case so I don't find out when the transmission is off and then have to run for 10 miles to get one!

Doesn't look too difficult. I watched these two videos. First one is dismantling the box, second is assembling it.

I haven't... But I guess since this car has done quite a bit of mileage replacing all the bearings isn't a bad idea...

This? https://h-tune.co.uk/synchrotech-transmission-bearings-seals-kit/ So the above bushing kit would definitely fit? £300 on bearings and bushings

So, I more than likely need to change pretty much most of the bushing son the car. I know the busing on the rear lca's are pretty much fubar so want to replace them asap and then have a look at the others. Am I right in thinking that these will fit but are also considered to be pretty good in terms of stiffening the chassis up, etc? Pros and cons? http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/eg/suspension/energy-suspension-hyper-flex-poly-bush-kit-civic-eg-92-95.htmlhttp://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/eg/suspension/energy-suspension-hyper-flex-poly-bush-kit-civic-eg-92-95.html Using mg zs shocks with oem lcas and eibach springs... If there's somewhere I could buy the bushing for the lca alone that'd be great but wouldn't be surprised if buying them from Honda would be almost as much as the entire kit linked? Sorry for the masses of posts lately... Just want to make sure I do things right Oh and if someone could point out to me where to buy an input shaft bearing for my civic that'd be great... Other than ringing Honda up. Oh and I remember reading somewhere that they have to be black otherwise it wouldn't pass an mot? Is that correct?

He didn't specify... I might just see if I can do a detour tomorrow and see how much work they'd need...

the et is 15 and 20...

They're Borbet Type A rims by the way.

He hasn't stated the et. I've just sent him a message though. What is the et of yours?

Yeah they are. They would look so good!

So, I've seen some wheels I'm interested in that would think would look bomber on my mb. Currently running 14" steelies with profesionally (read, 5 min job) matt blacked hub caps. Which look alright considering. But, I've added mg zs shocks and lowering springs and want to minimize that arch gap and run some bigger wheels. There's no mention of the ET so I'm diverting to the expertise of you guys. I understand that 7.5j and 9j are width of the wheels. Am I right in thinking that one set are thinner than the other, so thinner on the front, thicker on the right? Or am I completely wrong? It's a 3-4 hour drive there and back to get them so would rather not waste my time... So size of the the wheels on the add are 16" 4x100 7.5j and 9j...

Bearing it is. And thanks Finch, Did replace the clutch and flywheel fairly recently, (read 15k miles, but that's only two months!)

Nobody?

My input shaft bearing has gone. I believe that may be the noise I hear all the time. It certainly seems to go a long with all other info about it...

Hi guys, So I've found out that the noise which I thought was standard is actually my input shaft bearing. And comparing it to every video on youtube,etc it sounds the same and behaves the same. Which is annoying, as I replaced the clutch not too long ago! So, questions. I've watched a video on replacing the bearing and it looks simple, just time consuming. This is obviously the cheaper option. I'd be doing it myself. Or just replacing the entire gearbox. Now I could either replace it with a OEM one or I know that people have changed to other gearboxes... Question is, what are the benefits/downsides and is it worth it? Car is completely stock, other than lightened flywheel and MGzs shocks... Would look at doing other things later, but lets fix her up first eh? So, replace bearing? Go for OEM gearbox or other gearbox? Mb3 so D15 engine

You know what, after listening to Other cars on youtube, it sounds like that's the norm. Although confirmation would be nice...

It just doesn't always make that noise. But the majority of time it does.

@Finch the weird noise starts at exactly 28 seconds in. If you hear the noise change go from a standard rumble to a kinda annoying higher pitched tinny sound? Not very good at describing these things Maybe that is just the standard sound and it's only recently started working? Nah, I'm good to my engines. And everything I work on. I'm far more clued up on bikes though. And way easier to work on for sure. The difference in a clutch change is phenomenal...

So... The shocks don't fit the lcas... But, looking at every lca picture ever they all stick out like this?

1.5 d15z. And makes that noise at all temps. That video is of her warm. Had already driven for about twenty minutes before hand. I'm not as religious as you with your warm up but being a biker for ten years, I've always been kind to engines from cold. As far as I know oil level is fine but I'll check on it now. Not overly helpful living in an incline! Recently did a service (plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter). It was making the noise before. Everything cranked up to correct torque settings and plugs definitely not cross-threaded! Old plugs looked in fine condition and cross checked them with what normal working plugs should look like. There's no smoke anywhere that I can tell. When I start her up later on and tomorrow morning I'll check. As far as I can tell she runs relatively fine. It's just a weird noise! The only thing that isn't stock is the lightened flywheel, but it was making the noises before.