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Finch

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Everything posted by Finch

  1. I'll try and help diagnose it but I need a couple answers; What size engine/code is it? It only happens when its cold? is there any oil around the bottom of the VTEC solenoid? is the oil level OK? and do you have any smoke? I've always warm the car up below VTEC switch over so around 5k maximum in the first 5-10mins until the coolant temps are warm, I then increase to 5500rpm and try to hold it there for about 15-20 seconds this ensures all the oil is flowing to the rockers ready for the VTEC engagement, I let off the pedal let it come to around 3.5-4k before getting on the pedal again. My CTR had 236k on clocks no-smoke, no excessive oil use, no blow-by when I sold it. I had the car from 36k. Only difference was the bottom end was built but head was 90% stock, only thing different was TODA Spec A cams, Supertech Stem seals and a pair of 1990s old-school HKS cam gears
  2. Always loved the IS200/Altezza, Had one for about a week on loan something about a straight six that is perfect. But a V8 conversion is awesome. I always heard swaps on them were hard due to all the ecu's for windows, steering etc
  3. New one was £70, went and picked it up at 5pm having had a lift from my best friends wife, I'll be swapping that tomorrow hopefully. might be mid day before thats done. Got a fair amount of beer to drink
  4. Took Apex 1hr20 to find me, got the car home found the shaft was well and truly f**ked, by the looks it's been on it's way out for a while and I just happened to be the unlucky son of a gun to find it out. Mondeo pulled out on us on a national speed limit road. Driver in front brakes hard, I brake hard, stop, as I went to pull away after the stop I got MASSIVE wheel spin and a knocking like I've spun a rod at this point I was like "I f**king hate cars" I turned car off, turned on in neutral revved hearing no-knock thank god. In gear it knocks, first thought is clutch has gone. I stick my head under bonnet to see the above site on drivers side. F**k was exclaimed many many times this morning
  5. Just as things started looking up.. It all goes to sh*t again.. I broke a driveshaft on the deck' on a hill start this morning what the f**k?!
  6. Yeah, I just typed in my reg into Eurocarparts for the MB2 and it comes back as 239mm on rear
  7. I'd stick with Grey, looks pretty slick with the black
  8. We have 262 at the front and the VTI's have 282 AFAIK
  9. http://www.ek9.org/index.php?threads/oem-lma-or-skunk2-lma.66865/ By the looks, people are steering away from SK2's LMAs, so Honda OEM B16 probably would be better
  10. @ashy if you're interested in that kit I've posted it in classifieds, £35 posted
  11. Yeah, the only other ones on the market are £200 more expensive!!
  12. If you're going to change the LMAs, Go upgraded, the Spring-style LMAs are much better than the older piston-style ones and you get less "snap" when VTEC engages when driven hard, smoother cross over etc
  13. Finch

    MB6 Rear wheel bearing

    Been there, though autocat or alleycat is fairly good at locating vehicles depending if you have reg or not
  14. The actual latch handle you use to open the door is broken and is now getting worse! Couldn't get out last night, that's on this weeks agenda of cleaning up the deck' at the same time I'll check the switch aswell but as it stands the handle inside is the biggest PITA
  15. I have the twin Bosch horn setup out of my old Micra SR turbo that doesn't sound half bad TBH and most scrap yards have a Micra in Other than that there are Ring or Hella who make decent products about £15-25 which are used in everything from OEM to WRC
  16. Recovered the MBs roof lining this evening in black faux suede material (looks purple with my terrible phone) with left overs to do pillars and visors too Not a fantastic job because the spray glue seeped (top right shows this) through the fabric due to its thickness, used carpet tape to secure edges where it folded over onto backing, added extra glue on top of edges on the back to keep well-truely in place Going to prep and paint all the handles and clips etc to either knighthawk black or black gloss to match, just something a little extra instead of matt black. I also pulled the sump and brackets off the old block before I gave it to scrap man, much to my displeasure (I wanted to turn it into a coffee table but the wife told me to p**s off) The sump is going to become a donor for either: - a template for a custom one (more capacity and feeds for turbo) based on the moroso turbo ones - Modified with feeds/drain ports added for turbo I also pulled the rocker off the head before handing the block and head over, I'll be drilling out the rivets to remove baffle in that to fit AN8/10 feeds for rocker breather hoses aswell as a lick of paint when I get 5 minutes My current idea is to relocate as many fluid feeds to where the battery currently lives in a custom housing idea I have, I will also relocate the battery into the c**kpit/boot. I have an oil cooler, filter relocation kit and breather kit on order right now aswell as various turbo bits. I want to get as much of the oil side of things done before the turbo goes in, including feeds to pan, that way I can simply plumb the lines in after bolting up, install base mapped ECU and get it running then take it for remap asap
  17. Spent half hour messing with Betty. She fired up straight away today after 10 mins of messing, also got the shifter adjusted to a livable level. Family booty shot on the father in laws (overgrown) garden
  18. I spent my evening designing fancy billet battery tie downs with a logo idea on, now I'm going to the pub for a quick drink!!
  19. It will most likely be a D14A4 / D14Z4 (restamped A4 with update to make it more economical) however to be 100% sure you can check on the block. Open Bonnet, look at the front of the engine where the gearbox meets the engine there is a flat section thats got a "D14XX" number, the XX signifies the exacting code. I have actually got a brand new kit with tensioner I bought recently and never fitted because I bought a new engine, let me know if you're interested I've attached a picture of where you're looking!
  20. Having gone through a series of issues with supplied parts recently I and a few friends I've worked with in the past are looking to setup a small speedshop that also caters for standard parts. I've spoken to Dave here about prospectively becoming a trader but to do that I need to get setup first.. And before I can get setup I need to do some market research! I'm in the midst of building a webstore with a metric f**ktonne of encryption and various other backups towards security. We're hoping to cater directly for the MB/MC chassis with a range of tried-tested parts, Initially, We are looking to stock things like Intake kits, Silicone hoses, dress-up parts and eventually would like to stock everything from internal components, suspension components to fiberglass panels. We're looking to also stock service kits both upgraded and standard spec parts. I've spoken to an engineering firm who're willing to do a limited run of exhaust systems for both the Aerodeck and fastback civics in both D and B series I have got a few companies on board right now with meetings and talks setup with brands such as Lucas oils, Exol oils, ADL Blueprint / Bilstien, Mahle etc. I've also been in contact with 3 of the major "shiny bits" companies like BWR, ASR and Function7, Two of the brands are quite interested in doing a modified Aerodeck option to their braces due to the 4mm closer in bolt holes, the other wasn't as excited. We're looking for some input here so if you have anything that you would like to see available off the shelf with direct support and fitment, I'll be happy to listen! Finch
  21. Finch

    Spoiler

    Ya stealin' me idea here!! Damn you
  22. Finch

    Spoiler

    Yeah, Mugen / Honda? sued some people a few years back so probably only going to find legit ones or really really expensive ones they have left over. I have a friend in Japan who might be able to source one for alot lot cheaper, leave it with me
  23. This was the crack, plus the block is now going to become a coffee table There's a new (26k) D14 in now so should be good for a few more years! Though I am planning on boost
  24. Yeah seems to be a mixed review on K-seal, few people say its done wonders other people say they don't rate it. It was OK, but it didn't really seem to do much, I ended up sticking bars seal stuff in and that helped more
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