KeirML
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Posts posted by KeirML
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10 hours ago, dr_broon said:
I recently had skunk dc2/eg LCAs fitted, and they had to get them machined to be able to fit the new standard mc2 shocks over them - I didn't realise why at first, but that confirms what Jake's said above.
I take it you got the shock bushing machined?
How did the rest of the arm fit? Was the only alteration reducing the shock bushing from 50mm to 40mm?
And if so then that should settle it: for our cars it's eg/dc2 with 40mm shock bushing.
We can also put that forward as a suggested edit on the compatibility list just to help anyone who plans to get LCAs in the future :)
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25 minutes ago, KiNK43 said:
Rear LCA is eg/dc2 length 100%
The confusion comes because the fork on the bottom of stock shock absorber is narrow like an ek.
So usually you would run an eg rear LCA and fit coilovers with the wider (eg) fork to suit the eg LCA.
Front lower arms can use mg zs. Dc2. Eg. Etc
Only again Ek front lower arms are completely different design. As is the subframe etc.
Thank you for this, and I think you're right.
I don't think EK ones will fit but I'll test it anyway. I measured my old shocks -because I've hung onto them since I put in my new MeisterR's ;) and the gap is 40mm, which granted is the same as the shock bushing on the EK LCA's, BUT you can get EG LCA's from places like Hardrace that have 50mm OR 40mm shock bushings!
So what I've done is ordered a set of EG LCA's with 40mm shock bushing and my money is definitely on those fitting right.
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So had a check with Dynodaze again, in light of that compatibility list, and asked for Rich to confirm, (although still not 100% sure the response I got was from Rich) the reply I got from them was them saying that coilovers for MB's use EK fork in the rear, so they say it would be EK LCA's that go with it.
So fingers crossed I won't have to return the EK LCA's that I bought.
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1 hour ago, Dave said:
Not really sure to be honest mate. I know you can fit MGZS front springs/dampers but the fork needs modding to get the height right, @noodels did this mod to his. So thinking that the MGZS LCA's may fit (but might require modding?) but not sure on any actual gains using them over OEM Honda ones. Would the DC2 LCA's be the same fit I wonder? Plenty A/M stuff available for them so that might be worth a look into. Have a look through the following thread as it may shed some light on it for you.
This is fantastic! Thank you so much! I can't believe I didn't find this but I can't express how grateful I am for showing me! :)
Slightly worried about how I was advised by Dynodaze that EK rear LCA's fit whilst EG do not, whilst that list very much shows the opposite.
I'll try and get back to them to see what they say because it could have been an honest mistake or the list could be wrong, or if it comes to it may have to test both.
Cheers again!
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Hi there,
So I've returned again to pick fruit from my favourite tree of wisdom.
So good news, my MB2 build is nearing to the "end" of my MB2 build, of which I'll be making a lovely post about with lots of pictures once it's done.
So recently I got the Hardrace front traction brace, Hardrace rear LCA's, 18mm rear anti-roll bar for 400/45/MG ZS. So I want to get new front LCA's as well and I asked the guys at Dynodaze about fitment and they told me that rear LCA's for MB follows EK (not EG) fitment but they didn't mention what would fit the front, only saying that they'd recommend getting ones off an MB6.
So I just want to see if anyone has AM front LCA's then what fits MB's?
Also bonus question, in case I ever decide to go for a beefier rear anti roll bar, what fitment works with the MB2?
Thank you so much guys.
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Hi guys me again,
So in a continued effort to make my K20 MB2 perfect (or as close to as I can) I was recommended into getting an LSD fitted.
So I'm looking for suggestions if anyone knows what works well with K20A2 and suitable for an MB2 chassis. (I'm also be looking around on K series forums too but I thought I'd also ask you guys in case anyone here is quite knowledgable about it).
Many thanks once again :)
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On 12/6/2020 at 8:02 PM, Dave said:
Did they not do an Aerodeck too? Or an MB6 to K20?
It is the one Rich at dynodaze did for me :) They did a fantastic job!
I'm not sure if they had an MC2 or MB6 but I do remember when I picked up my car they were also working on a clean looking navy blue MB2 with a VTI-S body kit. When I was there it still had a d-series in it so they could have been doing a K20 swap ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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On 12/4/2020 at 5:16 PM, Dave said:
Exactly as Jamie says mate, prise out the fog light switch (theres a wee gap in the bottom of it to get a small flat screwdriver in) and you'll see the screw holding the cowel to the dash. The other is behind the blank plate (or might be the dash dimmer switch depending if yours has it fitted). Drop the steering hight adjustment right down when trying to remove the cowel though as it won't come out if the steering is in high position.
Looking forward to seeing this K-swap!!!
Once my car is finished I'll make a thread showing it all (I've still got wheels, coilovers, fresh bumpers and accord r spoiler to do) but here's a couple pictures of the engine bay just to show you that lovely k-swap ;)
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Hi guys. So I'm trying to swap in an MB6 cluster into my MB2 (because it has now been K-Swapped) and taking off the panel holding the cluster is giving me a real pain. I could be blind but I couldn't find a guide on how to do a cluster change in an MB.
So far I've undone the two screws at the top of the panel so I have some movement but the bottom (especially the bottom left) of the panel won't budge and I don't want to break anything!
Would anyone be able to give me some pointers?
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10 hours ago, KiNK43 said:
Yeah so eg dc2 delsol fit straight on mb.
I'll be honest I recon Swapping the column wont to difficult however I cannot guarantee it won't need some customisation. These things usually require some tweaks.
Ok cheers, again that you both I think you've helped me to understand. So dc2/eg/mb have same fitment, and ek/ep3/accord r have the same. My last confirming/silly question; so I can just use any ek steering column (ek9 doesn't have a different one)?
Again thank you both massively.
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5 hours ago, KiNK43 said:
If your determined to keep it.
Use and ek steering column.
For the most part I'm sure it will fit. Bit no doubt there will need to be some tweaks made in order to get it all back together..
Or of course. Cut and weld the splined section to existing column.
1 hour ago, dr_broon said:And if you did want to swap for a different wheel, ek9 is the same fitment as the ep3 (as Jake notes above), so you'd need to go for dc2 / eg fitment.
Accord type r is same as ek/ep3 as well.
The input is massively appreciated so thank you guys. So my further questions for you then are: (1.) What steering wheels are actually a straight fit for an mb2? (2.) So any ek spline definitely fits an EP3 steering wheel? (3.) Do you know how easy is it to replace the current column with an EK one (is it something I can get my local mechanic, who usually works with Hondas, to do) or would it be better to see someone about cutting and welding to the current column?
Apologies if my questions are a bit repetitive, I just want to get it right haha! Once again your input is greatly appreciated :)
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So long story, I bought an ep3 type r momo wheel before I found out about proper steering wheel fitment. So of course the splines didn't match up where the ep3 wheel spline is bigger, however everything else fit amazingly well, fantastic size, the airbag and horn used the same connectors and it looks fantastic (honestly it looks like it was made for the car!). I know I'll be judged for saying this, so I decided to just bolt tighten the wheel down super tight and give it a quick test to see if it was any good, and to my surprise it worked - the steering was tight and it felt great, so I took it around a while and it's given me 0 issues (I would even periodically check the bolt and it has never loosened at all).
Now even though the wheel has been reliable so far, I am coming to terms with the fact that it is a risk, so from some research I can see the EK9 and DC2 wheels are a straight fit (correct me if i'm wrong), but it would be a real shame to stop using my ep3 wheel because it just fits my car so so well and I love how it feels. So my ultimate question is, where can I go to get the spline of the wheel adjusted so it actually fits properly? Or do I just need to go after a dc2/ek9 wheel?
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3 hours ago, KiNK43 said:
Your power expectations seem fair.
Personally I'd buy parts indivually.
Even good Kits have issues. For example I baught a racetech kit. It didn't fit then the turbo was faulty and the manifold kept cracking was awful.
I would splash out on a decent manifold. You want a good strong 3mm walled manifold. Not one of these flimsy shiny eBay ones, they will crack constantly and be a pain in your arse.
Reliability.. you can make a reliable turbo setup. But turboing a stock engine you always going to be waiting for the day it goes pop imo.
Maybe it never will and it will be fine. But it's a ticking time bomb, but if mapped properly and looked after at that power could be fine for many years. But if it does pop take it as part of the fun and fix it.
Shopping list. Well you need a turbo. Something smallish.
Manifold, wastegate, downpipe and exhaust, fuel pump, injectors, ECU a p28 to start with and a hondata s300 if you want but not required, a clutch, Oil feed and return lines. bov if you want one. I don't bother personally with bov. And an intercooler and pipework.
Great stuff there!
Do you know a place that makes it easy to put together a list of parts that I know will fit the car? And are there any specific parts you would recommend?
Do you know any clutches that would be great for this without making the car super harsh to drive?
Also in terms of ECU, is this what I'd be after? https://www.tegiwaimports.com/hondata-s300-ready-equipped-obd1-p28-vtec-ecu-package.html
And last of all, just so I'm more educated, what is the purpose of the blow off valve? (since you said you don't bother with them) I do like the sound so I'll likely get one anyway.
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I would like your wisdom,
*Thought I'd put this here rather than in SOS, as this is more like a discussion and sharing of experiences*
So for context, got my MB2 1.4 around this time last year and straight away I was thinking about modding, but I decided to have patience and restricted myself and kept it all stock excluding the steering wheel and seats. It's been a trooper of a car, but now this is where the fun begins.
Originally I wanted to do a K swap but then I matured and realised I was in over my head, so now the plan is to source a D16Y8 SOHC VTEC, and swap that in, then turbo it.
I currently have a D14A8 SOHC non-VTEC.
So I just want to get input of the good people who know a lot more than me:
- I'm assuming since I'm swapping in another SOHC D series engine, it should be pretty straight forward, however I still have questions such as what other components can I keep and what else I would need to replace (such as the ECU).
- If anyone is adept with turbo-ing d series I would love to know what kits are good (I know ebay ones have gotten better but you can tell me if any are worth it), or if you put together your own kit then what the shopping list was. Also I would more than welcome suggestions of trusted professionals who can help without ripping me off (I am based in Chatham, Kent)
- And if you have a d series turbo build I would love to hear about the power gains, reliability and cost (time and money).
D16Y8 is approx 125hp, and with a turbo I would aim to get this to 210 - 230hp, please let me know if this is reasonable or crazy and what would be more realistic to expect from a daily driver turbo build.
I'm also aware that (when turbo-ing) that I would need to upgrade the intake and exhaust too and would welcome recommendations.
And if you want more topics to dive into, I would appreciate suggestions of good upgrades to my brakes for the power I want to make, and let me know if I would only need to upgrade components such as the pads or if it would be necessary to upgrade the whole thing.
Overall I just want to find the most cost effecitve way to make my car more fun and also reliable, can't wait to hear your guys' experiences
You are all much appreciated.
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Hi there lovely people,
I have a 98 civic mb2 current with a D14A8, and I'm considering swapping a K24A3 into it.
I've got a garage quite local that does specialise in Honda so I'd be able to consult them, but I was just wondering if any of you guys have had experience k-swapping your civics and what the process was like.
Have a nice day
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Hi there,
I was looking for OEM style mudguards that would fit an MB2 (such as the ones on the MB6 in the picture attached), so I thought I'd pick the brains of the lovely people here, because who knows more about these civics than you guys right?
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Thank you for that Dave, very informative!
I also have a few more questions if you don't mind:
Should I get a K&N replacement air filter or cold air intake, or both? (Would I even need both?)
Also I was planning to turbo charge it down the line, not looking for anything crazy, just a small cheap turbo that can bring it up at least 100 horses. Would you have any recommendations as for which turbos go well and where to get them? (I heard eBay turbos are getting better if you know what to look for)
I'm going to do more learning with all of your other suggestions in mind, and if I have anymore questions I'll give you a shout
Thanks again
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Hi there,
Got my test next month and I've been eyeing up a 2000 Civic 5 door saloon 1.4iS (I believe it's an MB2 D14A8), as it's cheap to buy and insure and they have a reputation of being reliable. I have a strong fascination for this car and it's potential to be upgraded and overtime I want to make it my own through gradual modification.
And I probably don't know an awful lot, so I want to learn and get ideas + suggestions that will also help me to make decisions specific to this car.
First mods I plan to do:
Wheels and tyres: planning on getting some 17x7.5 with either 215/45 or 225/45. But I want to know what range of tyre sizes will be suitable.
Brake Pads, Coilovers, Cool air intake: what's good? What's affordable? What's a mix of both?
Body work: any low profile body work that facelifts the car, and where to get them? (Such as the body work on VTi-S models).
May also look into getting an LSD, open to suggestions of what to get, new or second hand, and what to look out for.
General suggestions also welcome, feel free to educate me, I'm here to learn.
Thank you
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Drums to discs, MB2
in Brakes and alloys
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Hi there, me again!
I've come to sip from the fountain of knowledge as usual.
So as you, I was thinking about ways to make my car better, and since my MB2 has been K-Swapped I was thinking it maybe a good idea to do more improvements to the braking. So I already got EBC discs and yellowstuff pads on the front and braided lines on both the front and rear, but now I'm thinking it maybe a good idea to do a disc conversion for the rear and then get EBC discs and yellowstuff pads for those too.
I had a look around the forum about this sort of thing and I looked at the list of interchangeable parts, but from my understanding going from drums to discs requires a full hub conversion. So if anyone is experienced in this field I would like to find out what all of my options are; so from which cars can I swap rear discs into mine from?
I am aware that MB's that have discs on both front and rear ususally come in the configuration of 262/260 front/rear or 262/239. I would assume 260mm discs are superior to 239mm, but I am staying away from rear discs from the MB6 and MC2 VTI's because I want to keep a 4x100 wheel pattern (unless it's easy to change).
Another thing is that my MB2 does not have ABS, I'm not sure if this plays a part with seeing what options I have.
So overall I just want to hear what others have to say; what you guys would recommend, which breaking cars I should keep a look out for, and what would give me the best stopping power without changing other things on my car such as the wheels.
Cheers guys :)