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martinw

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martinw last won the day on March 10

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About martinw

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  • Name
    Martin Wright
  • Age group
    46-upwards.....Wise youngster!
  • Location
    Norwich England

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC VTiS AERODECK
  • Model code
    MC2

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  1. martinw

    Dr_Broon's VTI 'deck

    At least - you've got a 6 month extension on time for your next MOT !! (new gov regs for virus)
  2. martinw

    Driveshaft dynamic damper

    Update As moving onto the brakes on the other side, decided to have a look at driveshaft/doughnut on that side before ordering new driveshaft - in case I needed to order two. As I already said doughnut on passenger side appeared good previously but wanted to have a really good look in case the corrosion had got in there too. Pulled the rubber back on the un-clamped inboard side of the doughnut and could feel a bit of flakiness to the paint but otherwise looked/felt good. Was just about to decide on cutting it open when noticed that when spinning the driveshaft back and forth, there was a distinct clunk from the inboard CV joint. As there was obvious slack in the joint and would need replacing anyway, decided to cut off the doughnut. Pics below are what I found...…. Pretty self explanatory, but the pics of the doughnut cut open show that there is a difference in design/construction between the bad one on drivers side and the good one on passenger side (don't know if they are both original but suspect so). The good passenger doughnut is much more flexible when you try to turn it by hand coz the outer ring is attached to the inner sleeve by a series of rubber ribs whereas the drivers doughnut inner and outer parts are connected by a continuous rubber ring (less flexible). Don't know if this affects durability. Anyway, what was significant to me was that on the edges of the pristine paint on the driveshaft under the good doughnut, the corrosion had already started (see bubbling paint). Give it some more time and you could have another weakened driveshaft with no exterior signs . Draw your own conclusions...….
  3. martinw

    Dr_Broon's VTI 'deck

    Amazing they missed this, after you asking them and undersealing nearby. The jacking points are easy enough to do but the area around the trailing arm bush mounting points not so easy - difficult to get at without removing the arm and depends how far away you have to go to find good metal to weld to. Could it be they knew it would be a pain to do and just left it ? Incidentally, on mine which is pretty good generally underneath, this is the only area (both sides) that had been previously welded. Having re-rustproofed the areas recently, had chance to have a good look at the welding. The area welded extends from the bottom of the inner arch to the inner sill and jacking points plus a bit onto the chassis, all interlinked . And a plate for the rear seat-belt mountings. In all, 5 or 6 plates - not a small job and repeat to do both sides. Thing is though, looking at the cars MOT history it failed on corrosion to rear suspension and seatbelt mountings - the next day (!) the welding had been done and passed its MOT. Both MOTs were at a Honda dealer, so maybe they did the welding ? Anyway - just shows whats possible in a day - never mind 3 months !!
  4. martinw

    Driveshaft dynamic damper

    Thanks for the advice, will probably go for the J&R shafts when I get round to it (may not be far away, see below). Decided to cut off the damper, mainly to see what damage the corrosion had caused to the shaft, but also to better understand the construction of these things. First pic shows the damper after being cut off. There appears to be only one securing clamp on the outboard end and mine was still in place. So guessing the water gets in at the other end and corrosion starts? You can see where its been cut that there is a metal ring that is inside the rubber and goes all the way round the circumference. Decided to weigh the doughnut and it came to a surprising 10 ounces ! That's a fair bit if centrifugal force acting on the shaft ….. and (playing with the good one) this force is applied to quite a flexible rubber base where it meets with the shaft. Next pic is of the shaft after doughnut cut off and last pic of the shaft after wirebrushing. Worrying amount of metal corroded away from the shaft where the doughnut was. So decided to measure it - the normal part of the uncorroded shaft was approx. 26mm dia (with paint). The narrowest part of the corroded area was only approx. 19mm ! That means the shaft has lost 27% of its dia (and strength) at that point, and the corrosion probably goes deeper. No wonder these shafts can snap easily if corroded and put under stress..... Luckily, my car has been (and will be) off the road until mechanically good and I,m not having to use it regularly. But if I was using it daily, I would be worried about driving it with a shaft in this state. And who knows if the one on the other side (that looks good) hasn't also corroded underneath the rubber ?? Guess most driveshafts snap when pulling from a standing start (?) and don't cause too much damage underneath or loss of control ? But say one let go at 60mph when you drop down a gear (or two) - you've got two broken ends of the shaft flailing around at high speed and maybe a disastrous loss of control ? My own thoughts at the moment are that maybe there's a case for recommending that if your car still has the original dampers on the shafts, that you change the shafts to the non-damper (J&R type) asap.....
  5. martinw

    Driveshaft dynamic damper

    Working on front brakes reminded me that I'd seen this earlier:- O/S "dynamic damper" (Honda parts list description) seems to have destroyed itself - see pics, N/S one seems ok. From reading elsewhere, seems this is caused by trapped moisture leading to corrosion on the shaft and that corrosion eventually causing possible snapped driveshaft ? On mine, although you can't see it clearly in pics, there are signs of corrosion to the shaft inside the doughnut (and it seems like the diameter of the shaft is less there than the rest of the shaft - normal ?). Anyway, my first thought was to cut this doughnut off, as it can't be acting as it should, the state its in. But, question is - if I do cut it off, is this going to cause vibration or other adverse effects ? (opinion seems divided as to whether these dampers actually do anything much) Next - as I'm now worried that I could have a driveshaft that is already weakened, looking towards replacing it in near future (complete with CV joints both ends). Looking at replacements on Ebay, found a J&R item for a reasonable price, but no doughnut/damper on the shaft. Anybody got experience of using these non-OEM shafts with no damper on their car (maybe in conjunction with the original shaft/damper on the other side). Any problems ? Or, if I replace one side with no damper, do I also need to replace the other side with no damper ? Also - do these non-OEM items generally come with the correct number of "teeth" on the ABS ring ?
  6. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Great find ! Thanks …. Notice that Rimmer Bros also still has one side (RH) of the rear caliper shields but a bit more pricey at £28.20 They also still have the front disc shields (part no. SEC000100) at £34.20 each.
  7. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Thanks all …. Would like to replace the rear disc shields but think its going to be a long term search for NOS, or by chance someone is breaking with some shields in good nick (unlikely? and can they get them off without damage?). Caliper shields (first time I've come across these on any of the cars I've worked on) - discontinued by Honda. Haven't got on to front brakes yet but suspect disc shields for those are also going to be poor - also discontinued by Honda.
  8. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Thanks for that. To be clear, I am talking about the shields behind the discs, not the (plastic?) shields above the calipers. On mine, the caliper shields were already missing when I got the car. Bracket and bolts for these still in place (probably seized). Not intending to replace caliper shields. Believe I would only think about replacing disc shields if I was working on the hub/ bearings anyway. Meanwhile, will leave them off...…...
  9. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    In the process of refurbing the rear brakes discovered that the (dust ?) shields were in a pretty bad state. Corroded but holding one side, almost falling off the other. That one, after leaning on it, did come off. Seem to be difficult to find (and Honda only have one side at over 40 quid) and to replace will prob have to remove hub/bearing. Securing bolt heads are badly corroded and no doubt threads will be seized - bolt snaps, then have to tap them out . Questions are - do people just leave the shields off in this case (apparently in the States/Canada, they do), and if so could it be an MOT fail over here ? If I do try to put them back on, is there any firm doing them for a reasonable price ?
  10. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    Think if mine had the pin spacing like yours, would have had a better chance of getting them off. Guess Honda had a limited number of pin spacings available (almost like coding) and its just luck of the draw which ones you have on your car ?
  11. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    Well - Success !! The guy got the nut off, took him about 2 mins. He used a high torque impact driver and a lump hammer and the original key. Told him that I had tried my impact driver (15 quid halfords special) without success. He said this driver was in a different league, cost about 100 quid and has so much torque it can snap sockets or the drive head easily. If that had failed he said he had other tools for pin-type nuts that would do the trick and rechargeable drivers with up to 1600 ft llbs torque. Didn't even damage the nut or key if I had wanted to re-use it (not). So if you have a similar problem, may be worth calling your local specialist (mobile tyre fitters come across these problems frequently, mine was the 3rd of his today). If in the Norwich area - pabrownmobiletyres - highly recommended !
  12. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    As you say, a really dodgy/weak design. Especially for something subject to the weather. Once the chrome coating has gone, starts to corrode, then pin-holes expand with use. Gonna fail sometime. Wont be putting them (or any other type) back on. Just the standard OEM wheel nuts. Nobody nicks wheels these days ?
  13. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    UPDATE (for now): Have contacted one of the local wheel nut removal firms. He's seen the pics and reckons he can get it off and has never failed (yet !). No call out charge if he fails. So going to let him have a go at it tomorrow late pm. £36 if he succeeds. Will watch carefully on what method(s) he tries and will report back on outcome.
  14. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    My car came fitted with the OEM locking wheel nuts and the key (and a few spare standard nuts). While working on the rear brakes, managed to get the locking wheel nut off one side by being fairly gentle with the breaker bar but there was corrosion to the pin holes in the nut. Tried the other side (also corroded in the pin holes) and this will not move. As soon as you try to turn the key, it just slips. Tried the old trick of hammering an undersized socket onto the chrome cap that extends beyond the head of the stud. Very thin metal (I found out afterwards) and as soon as I tried to turn it, it just sheared the cap off. So now I'm stuck with this wheel nut I can't get off and can't move forward with brakes (and work on wheel arch). After this problem, thought I would try and get the 2 front ones off and managed those ok. First pic shows the problem wheel nut (the blue circle in the centre is the head of the stud). Second and third is another wheelnut removed earlier (also cap sheared off) giving a better view. And lastly, the key (there does appear to be some wear/distortion to the pins). Have had a look at local firms offering a locking wheelnut removal service and most of them only seem to have tools suitable for screwing onto bolts (rather than nuts) and most will still charge a call out fee if they can't get them off. I've just cancelled my RAC subscription, so can't call them...... So, any ideas/suggestions for getting this nut off ?? (Personally, think this is probably going to have to be drilled out with consequent damage to the wheel and/or stud)
  15. martinw

    Front bumper headlight washer cover trim

    Yeh, maybe worth a try on other so-called discontinued parts ?
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