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Well my aerodeck will be back on the road next month and I cant stop looking into boosting it. so I'm getting to grips with everything I'm going to need for the build. This is what I've got up to now. Any advice on how to do this and on parts will be greatly appreciated b18c4 turbo build parts list racetech turbo kit: Reconditioned Twin Scroll TD05 Turbocharger Race-Tech SS Equal Length Manifold Race-Tech SS 2.5" Downpipe Race-Tech SS Braided Oil & Water Lines Race-Tech Alloy Intercooler w/Pipework & Joiners OEM MLS Gaskets (Manifold>Turbo & Turbo>Downpipe) All Fitting Hardware fueling: Grams 550cc injetors WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP ecu: socketed p28 other parts: induction/air-filter skunk2 pro series intake manifold cheers Dan

I'm aiming for 200bhp. I've got the exhaust side sorted out, now it's time to focus on the intake. I'd like opinions on 3 things: 1. Intake kit. The most popular choices here seem to be an ITR box with K&N filter, whale or cold air intake. Any thoughts? What about heat shields, anyone built one? I'm currently running a brandless aftermarket short ram without any shielding, probably not the best option. 2. Throttle body. Going for a bigger manifold obviously needs a bigger tb. Been thinking about ITR or Skunk2. 3. Intake manifold. Once again ITR and Skunk2 are the ones i've been considering Also heard good stuff about Edelbrock Performer X. So what do you think? After these upgrades the next logical steps will be a fuel pressure regulator and Hondata. I know i won't make the most out of these, let alone get 200bhp, without changing cams but that will be a bit later.

Hi everyone i was wondering what is a good turbo or turbo kit to use engine wise id be looking at either the 2.0 out of the gen 1 cr-v or a b16 or 18. Bit of a odd one i know lol cheers ben

Hello!! So, I have a 1998 Honda Civic 1.5i LS VTEC-2 5 door hatch (MB3). I need to replace the air filter and I want to buy a sporty one, I know it won't make pretty much any difference besides being more thirsty for fuel but... I want to try the thing is, I've settled for the K&N 33-2047 and I need to know if this model will fit my car. K&N's official website says it'll fit, but a lady in the website I want to buy it from says it won't. So, will the K&N 33-2047 fit my car (D15Z8)??? And if it doesn't, Can you recommend me a sporty air filter to improve the sound and hopefully increase 1 or to 2 HP??? (NO cold air intakes plase). Thanks in advance!

Anyone tried it ?

hi im new to the site. im having some trouble with the exhaust. what do u guys run with from the manifold and out how big and can u do track days with it ?? without the sound going to crazy . hope u guys can understand my question kind regards Damoc

I'm looking to uprate my mounts while iv got the engine out just wounding are the eg/dc2 kits the right ones to go for are cars?

well I'm building again but a little different this time my 8 year old son wants to build a car with me so got a hold of a ratty old coupe it's a mess and needs totally redone lol I'll get some pics for your amusement . I've never done a d series before I'm thinking of turbo so advice on which way to go would be appreciated guys .

Iv just gone to fit a toyosports 60mm cat back but it's coming up to short wher it meets the cat I had a powerflow made up jobbie on it since iv owned the car! So what I'm asking are there diffrent length after market manifolds? As iv got a toyosports 4,2,1 on atm but underneath it is very close to the left hand side of the sump if your looking at it towards the front of the car, also there's a bracket that's been bent out of the way so I'm 99% sure it's not for my b18c4

Hi! I would like to order 3 sets of D series driveshafts from J&R, to help friends with order. One for D16y3 MA, other for 1.4s... all of them MA or MB. My question is, all of them the same? Same driveshafts fits for all M with D engine?

Does anyone else run a toyosports 60mm cat back if yes what mani and cat/decat are you using???? thanks

Hi everyone, I am revising my B18C4 and already that candle was considering assembling the pistons of the Civic Type R B16B, some of you have already tried to mount them, I would like to know if there are problems

Hi! I had new clutch in 2015 (aisin), before that, shifting gears was smooth, except the worn clutch. After the change, 2nd gear is harder to shift a bit and in 4th gear I feel the knob moving a tiny bit on pushing and releasing gas pedal. So I guess its nor syncro, since it was smooth shifting before that service. Using MTF-3. Since that, I've got a new clutch again, but it wasnt the problem, cuz its still doing that. My last idea is linkage bushing replace maybe. Looking for advices, ideas about the problem, also looking for info about lingage bushing. which, where etc. cheeers

Hi all, for the past week I had a problem with my MB6. I took it home from a complete maintenance at a workshop, including cambelt, water pump,... Suddenly when I was driving around a few days later I've spotted that the temperature slightly rises up, nothing too exciting. But next day when the car was running idle the temperature rises again and the fan didn't even engage. Thought there is something wrong I parked it and the next morning I was looking under the bonnet just to see that there is no coolant fluid, completely dry. Bought new, filled it to full and did some test drives. Turns, city center, some full gases. Checked the water immediately after that, the car was still idling, temp ok, the fan went on and off, coolant full. After that I drove the car about 3kms home and the next morning 3kms back to garage. When I was about to drive home today I checked the water just to see its dry again.... Any ideas? Haven't spotted any leaks so far, exhaust smoke as normal. Engine in perfect condition. Thank you all. PS: Lately I had a problem with VTEC not engaging if that could be all one problem.

Hello guys. Please dont be angry if i mistake subforum. 7 days ago my deck VTi suddenly died. Had working well for a long time. 7 days ago, i took of distributor and cables, and swap them for a test on MB6. MB hardly starded because of jammed injector, but even with my injector, had problems with starting. But its starded. After that, i just unmount everything and mount back to my engine, and problem. Pretty same symptoms like on MB6. Car or dont start at all, or start, but had chocking on 2k rpm when i press gas pedal. If i run over those revs, engine or choke again, or accept gas up to limiter. It idle perfectly. And then, no ignition at all. Yestertay i ordered new ignitor, and same symptoms, but this time it starts easier, but again hard. Sometimes it start up after 1-2 seconds, sometimes it cranks for a long time, and it sometimes start, sometimes engine got loud crank noise with loud suction noise in air filter, and no ignition or like ignition in reverse. Also tried to put on other used cap, and no benefits. Car runs on petrol and LPG, and before this it worked perfectly on both fuels. Now it acts the same on both fuels, so i doubt that the fueling is the problem. Ignition coil is replaced 5 months ago. Every cable drops spark on engine block with scredriver spark test. Spark plug is dry. Cap and rotor looks pretty goor. Distributer interior is dry, and rust free. Change of engine timing also doesnt make any difference. In the dark there is no visible spakring either on distributor or somewhere on the cables. Do anyone know what might be, i am desperate.

Hi! Injectors are very noisy on my b18c4. Is it normal they have ticky sound? Any ideas for cleaning? Long time ago, I used some fuel system cleaner stuff added to normal 95, after that, I replaced fuel fllter. then I used 95 premium around 70% of my fuelings, to keep the system clean. other 30% is normal 95..

What engine code will I have in my 1999 Civic 1.4 ils, manual? Looking for a cambelt kit and theirs two kits available with a different number of teeth on the belts

So today, I, completely and utterly f**ked up. Did a full service, gasket change, checked for warpages etc (had blown head gasket for like 2 months but not time to do it), valve lash adjustment, brakes etc. Basically a pre-winter overhaul before I start building a D16 to drop in. I got round to torquing the bolts and noticed they were about (exactly, on measurement) 20mm longer. The bolts were longer but no-issue, I've worked in parts before and know that 1 part can cross reference 100 vehicles all with various odd differences so just ran with it. Chased threads with an old bolt and then dropped the head on dropped all the bolts in and started in sequence going up to hand tight then started torquing with the wrench. First steps 14ft-lb (according to local Honda parts dept) then 39ft-lb and final 2 stages both at 49ft-lb to ensure complete seal. I did steps 1 and 2, no issues, threads were perfect but noticed the bolts were sat at around 16-18mm above the face of the head. At this point I was looking and couldnt figure out what was going on. I got my dad outside to look and give an opinion (chartered aerospace engineer) who was a bit confused but said "is that the last step of torque?" I said no there are 2 others, he then pointed out that they might close down in the 3rd step because you know they used 4 steps for a reason. I agreed. I did the 1st bolt in the sequence and there was a ping, I froze, looked down as water started pouring out the front of the block. I did not swear, cry, shout or anything I just stood in disbelief. I removed a bolt and did a size comparison and found exactly 20mm was different and I'd hit the bottom of the block. as I continued to torque the bolt couldn't go anywhere but outwards. Damn.

So as a few of you may know, I'm swapping to a K Series (Honda K20A, Not a Rover!) engine in the next few months with parts being stockpiled as we speak. I noticed last night a bubbling coming from the overflow tank after a pretty good day weather wise here in the M̶i̶d̶l̶a̶ Outer Mongolia... but ignored it, checked levels of fluids etc not much lower than last time I checked but put this down to the bubbling caused by the car running hot (can't rely on the temp gauge, its never really worked right since day 1 of owning the car but I'm not that bothered with the planned engine swap). Fast-forward to today, set out for my journey to work (45mins) and no warm air at all, by the time I got about 10mins out of the yak herding village I work in I heard the bubbling again and then a hissing noise. Fans are all kicked in no issues there, ran heater on hot but it was icy cold. Once I got to work I popped bonnet and noticed I had burbling in the expansion/overflow and there was the dreaded steam coming from just below the head.. I honestly don't want to f**k around taking heads off, changing gaskets and such for at most 3 weeks so I pose this question to You, Have You ever used anything in the regions of Steel Seal, Engine Seal by MCP or anything that will allow me to use the car for a couple of weeks at very very most?. I tried Barrs stop leak after hitting a badger in Dorset once while driving the Micra, stopped a bit of a leak enough to get me home but nothing enough to seal a headgasket as far as I can remember. On the upside of things Steel Seal offers a "Money Back guarantee" which is always a bonus but its £40 a bottle!! Like I said I really don't want to be f**king around changing gaskets if the engines gonna be binned or stuck on fleabay in a months time being replaced by a K20!

Hi guys, So my gears started becoming harder to change lately, and there's been some strange whining noises in between certain gears. My mechanic has advised me that the Release bearing in the clutch might be the cause. So instead of changing the bearing, I'm thinking of getting a whole new clutch kit while I'm at it, and after some ebay and forum browsing I've seen alot of Brands such as the famous Exedy and other brands that I don't recognize such as CG Motorsports, Black diamond, and so on. I'm maybe considering getting a Competition stage 2 clutch since I'm always burning through my current (high revs) (also probably the cause of my current situation). So any of you guys have experience with clutches that can advise me on a good one to get?

Morning all, Long time lurker here looking for some advice. I was driving to work this morning and noticed the gears were becoming increasingly difficult to select. What's the average cost of replacing a clutch? Car is a Vti s aerodeck. Thanks for any advice Cheers Dave

Anyone fitted a blox intake themselves is there a hoe to anywhere

Is this the normal price thought they where more

Hi folks, just looking for some input for my gearbox set up to go in my track car. I have to leave the engine standard so want to make best use of the power avaliable. I'm looking for the shortest gearbox avaliable which I hear is a s80, 4.7 final drive with 4th and 5th from s4c. Think it has LSD aswell but not sure. Will also be fitting uprated clutch and lightened flywheel. Going to remove the power steering aswell to give me back the small amount of power it takes to run. Anyone know if there is a better gearbox I should be looking at and what I can do to improve it remembering it will be used for racing. Is there also anything else people can think of to get the most out of the engine and improve reliability? Thanks