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I'm wondering if anyone can enlighten me on something. I bought some cheep Maxpeeding Rod coilovers for my Wagon due needing new shocks. After doing a little research I got a set meant for a EG thinking they would be the right ones but it turned out that they were too short in the rear so I maxed out their length and just dealt with them. Unsurprisingly, they have now started to leak in the rear. Thing is, I want to replace them with a more sport type shock and spring package instead of a coilover thinking this would be a cheaper option but I can't find anything cheapish and readily available. I've tried looking for MG shocks but I can't find any that guarantee me a stiffer setup and trying to find lowering springs on Fleebay is a bit muddling as they say they are meant for an Aerodeck but don't list them in their info ("These fir your car" scenario). I've also had the same with websites other than Fleebay i regards to finding definitive information. Are Aerodeck shocks different or did I read something wrong and EG coilover are shorter than other models of Civic? I use to own a MK3 Golf estate and rear shocks were completely different to their hatchback versions in length and build so is this the same-ish for Aerodecks?

Anyone know how much these are worth?

Aerodeck VTi abs not working. When breaking hard, instead of applying abs the pedal suddenly goes in deeper and locks the brakes. No abs light, no fault codes. No fluid leaks in the system. I did get the brake lines replaced last spring, so might have something to do with the issue. I've checked the lines and made sure everything has been done properly and every line goes where they are supposed to. Any idea what might cause the abs system to malfunction, without turning on the abs light?

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks

Sooo... it's a third year in a row failing mot due to high emissions. This time it's running quite rich, lambda shows 0.6. Co% and HC about 10 tenfold past the limits. And can't seem to find the source. Here's my investigation so far: - no vacuum leaks - compression test ok - no visible leaks in exhaust system - plugs in need of change but nothing critical about their condition - plug wires ok - timing ok - ecu reseted - worn cap + rotor, a little bit of play in dizzy axle + dizzy a bit noisy = gonna replace distributor. But not in such a bad condition that would explain the richness. - coolant reservoir was empty, only a bit of dark brown muck on the bottom. At first thought it was oil, but when i rinsed it turned out was (atleast mostly) dirt etc. Discovered a small crack on the reservoir lid, might be a cause. Besides the reservoir no other clues pointing to a possibly leaking head gasket. Any ideas what to look for? One suggestion was that a faulty heat sensor etc. could be feeding the ecu wrong info and messing up the mix? Valve stem leak also one possible cause. In addition to the dizzy i'm planning on replacing the ecu with a p28 with Hondata to get better data about what's happening. And ofcourse once it's fixed, then it's tuning time .

What lighting options out there are best, obviously to go in my projectors... currently got 6000 HID bulbs which the light output is good but light distance isn’t great... just wondered what routes others have gone down? And am I likely to get them any better or not?

As the title suggests, lets start the new year off with the 1st pic of your Civic M this year! Here's DD to get you started!

Where’s best place for pressed plates guys? Don’t want to end up with poor quality ones... they’re for the mrs car

Hi. Can any one help with engine code and hp etc Of a Aerodeck 1.6 1999 ? Thanks

Spotted in Aldi car park. Red aerodeck, lowered, white alloys, exhaust, looked really sweet. Reg was NLP. Deffo sure this was a civic5 car before, looks really familiar.

i got this back in july 2011 and started modding. here is how i bought it. first of all i took off the rear badges i then lowered it on coilovers. it was a bit low first of all and couldn't get over anything!! (but wouldn't mind it that low again) i then bought my mates wheels, they are in need of a refurb on the lips though i bought a rear mid spoiler off a member on here then this one was only just to get the peeping pedo bear in

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ Well worthwhile if you're in the market for spares.

1998 Honda Civic Aerodeck B18C4 - Koni Sportkit -35mm and adjustable stiffness - Sportline lipkit - 16†Zero ZE04-rims with 205/45 Falken-tyres - for the winter 15†League 273’s with 195/55 Continentals - Tinted windows - Custom headlights - Custom grille - Red brake calipers up front - De-badged - Removed the headlight washers - Indiglo dials from Moman - Mugen pedals - Tenzo-R shift knob - Simoni Racing floor mats Greetings from the north, this is my second aerodeck. My first car was a MB8 that i bought in July 2008 but in march 2009 i couldn't resist anymore, took a loan and got myself the car that i had wanted in the first place, the MC2. It wasn't in the best possible condition when i got it and still needs lots of work, but slowly and surely it's starting to turn into what i hope one day will be the lowest, fastest and baddest Aerodeck in Finland. I just got my winter rims from Alloywheels.com and got them installed, i'll post pictures of the new look soon. I have lots planned for my deck... i'll keep you updated on the progress.

Hi everyone So after selling my Aerodeck and regretting it for the past 1 year and 2 months I have finally found myself another Pirates Black VTI Aerodeck. Really happy with the purchase . I will be getting it home today. 137K mileage with some paperwork showing work done for last few MoTs. I will get full service and Cambelt changed soon. Just a few pics from the seller for now. Wonder if anyone on here has owned it in the past?

Hey guys, long time I know but as soon I get rid of this financed Mercedes I’ll be back on the deck and back here as a regular! in the mean time I’m thinking about my options, I thought I’d post in here so any responses or information that’s given will be there for anyone else scrolling through the engine section. i want to get some gains going on in the bay... so I just wondered if someone could spend a few minutes to explain a bit about the options on all of the following.... cams, throttle bodies, manifolds, ecu’s and anything else sort of related which can acquire improved performance. willing to spend a bit of dough but not after a 2k build otherwise I may as well boost it lol... way out of my budget!! look forward to replies

Hi, I'm looking for some switchback LED bulbs to light up the headlight corners of my MB9, does anyone know a good kit? Preferably a kit with resistors and everything in it, just plug and play. I believe the turnsignal bulbs are T10's, Does anyone have a specific bulb or kit that they recommend?

Q= What Civic M' have I got? A= https://civic5.com/forum/main-pages/civic-5-door-and-aerodeck-chassis-codes/ Q= My cars heater only works on certain speeds, or not at all? A= The heater resistor pack has blown. See here for how to replace it >>> Click here Q= What is the wheel offset of the MB6 and other M's? A= http://www.civic5.com/wheel-info.php Q= Does a decat make any difference and where can I get one? A= Yes, a decat will make slight a difference in power. Available from various places such as Ebay Q= What tyre should I get for my M? A= All depends on the model/wheel size you have, and if it's lowered. 14" wheels 185x60 14 15" wheels 195x55 15 16" wheels 195x50 16 17" wheels 195x40 17 Q= I have an MA8/MA9 civic (pre-facelift models) Are the MB body panels the same? A= No. The MA civic 5 doors have the grill built into the front bumper. So body parts that are different are as follows Front bumper Headlights Bonnet Front wings Rear bumper Rear lights Q= What oil should I use in my civic? A= Honda recommend Castrol 10w40, however any make will be fine. You can also use 5w40 if you want to, but its a bit thinner. Q= How much oil does my engine take? A= Single cam engines take approx 3.2 - 3.4 litres, twin cam engines take 3.7 - 4.0 when you change the oil filter at the same time. Q= How often should I service my 'M'? A= Cars registered before July 1998, need a service every 6 months/6000 miles. Cars registered after July 1998 need a service every 1 year/9000 miles. (service schedules to follow.. ) Q= I am buying an m civic, what should i look out for? A= http://civic5.com/hondacivicbuyersguide.php Q= What are the most common mods done on our m civic's A=Exhaust A= Engine coolant bypass (FREE PPPOOOWWWEEERRRRRRRR!!!!) A=Dash board cluster (speedo/rev Guages) brighten up A=JDM brake light’s mod A=Headlight mod (de-tango) A=Aftermarket front fogs A=Rear anti-roll bar upgrade (MGZS) Q= Can I get replacement front and rear brake disc backing plates? A= Yes from Rimmerbros All parts are MGZS fitment. Rear part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)

Ok folks, let's see those Civic M's! Enter the civic you think should win!

So finally got myself a refurbed P28 ecu with Hondata S300 ready to plug and play from H-tune. Took it to a respectable tuner, and in absence of a B18C4 basemap he downloaded a close-enough map from the Hondata website and started with dealing with the engine fault codes that came on. Once sorted out, started the engine, and it would cut off at 2000rpm and not show any codes. After fiddling around the map with the laptop for a while, without any particular reason, the engine started working as normal and he proceeded to map the car on the dyno. Once it was done, i took it for a test drive, and the same thing as in the beginning happened again: limp mode at 2000rpm. Took it back, laptop back on, no fault codes, he looked through the whole map and each menu again without finding any problems, and after a bit suddenly it worked again. So i started driving home, car worked great, and after a while i stopped for coffee. When i started the engine again: limp mode. And no matter what, i couldn't get it working properly again. So had to swap back the original ecu to get back home. The tuner said there isn't really much he can do, since there was nothing to be found with the S300 manager program to point to the source of the limp mode. He said all he could think of was that there's some sort of compatibilty problem with the P28 and B18C4 that doesn't show on Hondata, and my best bet for now would be internet research. So here i am. I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly and read pretty much every thread with P28 on the title, but can't seem to figure this out. Has anyone had a similar problem?

Good afternoon to all, My name is Samuel , I am a dutch automotive student that studies Automotive Engineering. I've recently bought a bargian if i may say so. Thanks to Twan who is also a Aerodeck owner here i bought it. Hereby i introduce to you my 1999 Civic Aerodeck 1.5 V-tec-E. for 300 Euro. This car is only Honda Dealer Serviced so no third party's had touch this car for repairs and service. It has a fully new APK ( A yearly check up). And i know you guys will think, why is it so cheap. Well...... It has a cooling issue which i cannot source the problem. I thought of a air bleeding issue in de cooling system. It overheated when a have exited the runway so no Wind that cools the liquid. The fan works totally fine. So the only thing that i have concluded is that it has a bad gasket leak. So i will repair that in a couple of weeks, this and ofcourse some new fluids. new oil, new clutch and new sparkplugs while i am at it. But hereby i will end with some pictures.( It is quite dirty because did not had time to wash it good ! )

Ok guys, starting this one just now so lets see your cars entered! Lets make it a big one this month!! Doesn't matter if your car is standard or modified, all are welcome. Just joined the club? What better way for us to see your car than in this very competition! Enter now!

Hi, Despite thorough research i can't seem to find a definitive answer to this: which OBD is B18C4, and do i need a conversion harness to install a obd1 P28 ecu? I've only found very mixed answers. Some say that it's obd2a, some say it's obd2b. And that it's got a obd1 loom. So i'm a bit confused here. Anyone? Or can i check this somehow in the car, i've never fiddled with ecus before.

Hi all, My name is Twan, 26 years old. I'm an automotive student. I've bought this Aerodeck a month ago and i'm having fun working on it. Wondering if this forum is still active and if there are perhaps other Dutch members. Glad I found the forum though, it has already proved helpful in a few research occasions. When I started studying I sold my car (used to own a BMW 3-series) because I was sure I wouldn't be able to afford that car anymore. Soon enough though my hands were itching and I wanted a car that was easy to work on and parts should be inexpensive and readily available. Hello Honda! As a tall person I wasn't digging the EK's but the 5 door hatchbacks seemed more my thing. My aim is to learn about the car and to have a more practical approach to some of the classes I study at school. I like the engineering part but I also love getting my hands dirty. I bought myself an Aerodeck with around 220.000 km on the D15Z8. It had a little work to be done and I've made pretty good progress in the past month. First thing was thorough inspection and treatment of rust. The car has little to no rust in the rear, just some surface spots up front. The underside had a couple small holes in it which I cut out and welded some new material in place. Upon removing left front panel there was a tonne of dirt coming out which made me wonder if the previous owner was into offroading. The wiring harness from car to door was also unfortunately cut by one of the previous owners. After the rust was taken care of I gave the car a brakes refresh front and back. Last but not least all fluids and filters were refreshed. I looked into the engine through the spark plug holes with an endoscope and the cylinder and walls looked pretty good. I've also managed to rearrange some of the wiring in my door to get the speaker to work again, the central locking mechanism for the drivers side seems stuck so I'll have to fix that. Only other thing to find out is a humming/droning noise i hear when driving 70-120 km/h so I suspect a wheel bearing might be going out. Today I found some OEM rear roof speakers for the car and installed those and I've replaced the door moldings which should keep as much water as possible out of my doors. If the car proves to be trustworthy I'm going to save up for some coilovers, rims and alignment. In the meantime there is enough crap the previous owners messed up that I'm planning to fix and clean the inside of the car thoroughly.

Here is my 200,000 mile 1.5 aerodeck had it 4 months so far