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Hello from sweden. I have just bought a aerodeck and i dont know if i should buy 16 or 17, you are welcome to make suggestions and show pictures on your cars, also what width ET and tire demension you use. Im also going to lower my car with lowersprings 35mm in the future. My car on the picture :)

Was reading my Classic Car Weekly and one of the readers had put their car forward for the "value my car" section where they get an idea what their car is worth according to the experts. There was a 98 Rover sterling with around 60K on the clock and most of its history. They recon the value is around 3.5 to 4K and advised to get an agreed value policy on it. Same year (almost) as DD and know quite a few of our Civic M's are either 1999 or older so got me wondering if anyone here has ventured into the agreed value route yet with their Civic. I'm thinking of asking them for a value on DD just out of curiosity, as know the tossers at WeBuyAnyCar dot con (where most insurance companies base their values on now) value her at around £250! Which would maybe buy the alloys and bugger all else! Just with them getting pretty rare now, thinking surely the values (that they are actually worth) have gone up now? Don't want to get caught out if the worst happens so deffo thinking about the agreed value policy. Anyone got one on theirs and if so what value did you get agreed?

Just saw this linked on Facebook... Never seen or heard of one before... https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1996-honda-orthia-wagon/ Has a B20 lump

Does anyone know what size (MM), what size length and what thread the wee bolts are that hold the rear ABS sensor inplace at the rear of the brake disc and along the length of the cable? Every single bolt on mine is gubbed so don't want to reuse them.

Hello guys. I recently purchased a car I always liked. The Aerodeck! In my case it was meant to be just a cheap, reliable and versatile car. But as all things, I kinda fell for this old sucker! For the money it's still a very competent car, from doing the motorway miles to doing the IKEA run! Here's some pictures of it so far

Greetings everyone. It's been a long time since I've posted anything on here civic5 related. Been a member on here since 2013 when I got my last Aerodeck before a tour in Afghanistan. I used to have that weird one off 2.0 Turbo Diesel Aerodeck back in the day. It was fun but dealing with Rover parts wasn't at all. Ever since I came back to America I the itch for another Aerodeck. There are plenty out there, but I wanted one in the Orleans Blue Pearl color, specifically the 1.8 VT-i version of the Aerodeck. I looked and looked and finally found one, but with one catch: the floorboards were totally rust-rotted out in multiple places. So, after I gave up on that idea, this 98 MB3 Aerodeck popped up. With the help of my wife we set up a meeting with the seller to seal the deal. 1998 Honda Civic Aerodeck MB3 1.5 VTEC, D15Z8 SOHC Orleans Blue Pearl 294,684 km on the vehicle and still drives smooth, but this thing was slammed to the ground. Picked it up on my last trip to Germany and now it’s parked at the in-laws waiting for the 25-year rule to ship it to the States. I got some nice plans for this car when it gets stateside. I hope the importing process isn’t a pain in the butt though.

Just purchased a k20 aerodeck, when you start it from cold you have to prime the fuel pump twice as its still got the standard pump in. So when you key on, it doesn't prime the fuel enough so means it cranks over for longer, but if your key in and off twice, then it builds enough. Am I right in thinking king if I fit a walbro 255 pump then it'll be able to prime enough on the first key? As its a bigger, more power pump Thanks in advance

Hi everyone. I've been lurking here for a couple of years now, had a tired MB3 as my introduction to the 5th gen civics, even for a s**tbox i loved it. So here I am 2 years later with an mc1 aerodeck daily drive and i've just recently bagged a MB9 Aerodeck which i'm going to clean up and possibly engine swap down the line. Heres the old beast the day i got it home. (and yes thats the old mb3 to the left, now a generous organ donor!) I paid £300 in the end. I viewed it late one evening so couldnt get a good look underneath but after poking around the next morning i could only find one tiny spot of rust under the drivers footwell. All the sills and wheel arches are somehow spotless! Really cuffed wit that so on with the first job... The drivers door had been bent round knackering it, plus the hinges and wing panel, i've got my old mb3 as a donor car so swapping them out was a must before the winter weather leaks into the interior. Aligning the door to fit smoothly was a pain and its not quite perfect yet but it at least shuts and seals out the rain better than before. I have a cleaned up dent free wing to go on too. --- I wasn't sure where to go from here, with the weather changing I thought getting the suspension and brakes stripped made most sense as i can clean up and refurb them indoors! After a good clean and sand I gave everything a few coats of 'Buzzweld Rust Encapsulator' I've been using it for a few years on the underside of my vehicles, it's great stuff and seems to keep the rot at bay, highly recommend them for paint. Waiting on black topcoat to arrive. --- Eventually suspension will go back on with new wheel bearings, ball joints, upper control arms and new hardware. The bushes all look ok to leave for now. With regards to coilovers, is anyone running the cheapo £300 ebay specials? Are they awful? I've got 2nd hand MG shocks on my daily, made such a difference to the ride I might just look out for another set for this build. --- That's it for now, more to come after payday!

I am just after some pictures of a rear arb set up or a link to one so I know what to look for when I get round to doing a rear arb setup on my Aerodeck. Many thanks!

Hey all i know this isnt the good one but would this be all i would need to put an arb on my aerodeck ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-200-400-Coupe-Cabriolet-Tourer-45-MG-ZS-16mm-Rear-Anti-Roll-Bar-RGB100490-/234199683204?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Well since this is for sure the place to be with its fountain of priceless knowledge, really great members and i plan on never getting rid of this super cool wagon ive decided to start one of these So picked up this its a 2000 d14w4 es spec auto on 125k one company car for first 3 years, two elderly owners 17 years then a younger chap just over a year. The car came with receipts for everything and i mean everything down to windscreen wipers. The car came to me with optional extras like speedline alloys, larger fogs. Also came with a few wee trick bits like a vtis front valance, proline coilovers and a ep3 steering wheel (which everone says dont fit but previous owner said it went straight on even the wiring just plugged straight in ) So far ive done a few wee bits and bobs First up i purchased big daves double din console and took the plunge to cut out quite a bit behind the factory set up lol Tidied up the front grill with a wee paint using a satin surround and a gloss badge Had the timing belt and water pump replaced Done a couple small repairs of my own replacing a abs sensor and stripping dow the drivers door mechanism as it wsnt working. Turns out a pivot point hd sheared so drilled and tapped it to just a bolt then it stripped off 6 teeth ....... did i say i can be tight and a bit mguver lol so they were ground flat and drilled and tapped to take m3 bolts which were then dremeled down to reshape as teeth Fixed is fixed and if it works it aint stupid i believe the expressions are, if you hadnt guessed im a scot so can be very tight with money Current diy job is improving the grubby sagging headliner (bear in mind i said im tight and improving not fixing as that would imply i was doing a good job lol) So come this point if you havent fell asleep or gave up reading my drivel well done and thank you, heres some pics to make it worth while

So my headliner was starting to resemble the interior roof of a french boudoir or something from low budget greek era movie So me being me loving a bit of a cheap work around and my wife banning me from spending more money decided to go at it as cheap as possible Im sure it was less than £10 work of top quality pleather or leatherette (same cheapo rubbish whatever you call it lol) and a couple tins of spray adhesive ive started to tackle the roof I know it was looking a bit grubby but once it was out the car it was 21 years worth of grime and really wanting changed Its not back in yet but heres where im at so far ......... bear in mind ive never attempted anything like this before so there are marks and creases as i didnt have any where to unfold the fabric to let it decrease. also blimming amazon chinese sellers finest sent two batches that are slightly different. Messaged and they cant guarantee the same batches its just pot luck but i can live with it and thats what matter ....... i recon lol

After getting bitten by the Honda bug and owning 4 hatches of various generations, I went away from Hondas for a few years but found myself constantly looking for another one. Managed to get my hands on this VTi Aerodeck, had just 77k on it when I bought it and was too good to miss

Just asking if there is a common problem with water dripping onto the front seat belts? Sun roof is clear and not blocked (encase someone was to ask) and it only happens on the passenger side. I was originally thinking that it may have been the roof rails but on inspection there is no water running from the roof. Looking at how wet the belt gets I feel the car should be a few feet deep in water but it is not. The other annoying thing is underneath where the belt is bolted to the bottom of the car it is dry and no water is sitting so it is clearly running out of the car. And the carpet does not get saturated. It get a little wet but not very wet. Any advise greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Does anybody know if you can fit the mg zs 180 rear arb to civic mc1 (non VTI aerodeck)? i woud have thoughtso, but id noticed that they dont come with the rear subframe brace or front strut brace, and the mounting points arent there to even fit one?

Is there a rear seat that has a three point middle belt? I think I've seen one on a Google search but can anyone confirm? And would it fit into my 1999 model as I think these were put into the later models after 1999? Cheers.

Ahoj from Czechia chaps! In a very near future I think I'll be in the market for the "englishman" as we call the Swindon 6th gens here, specifically the Aerodeck VTi. The car would first replace my Mitsu Eclipse as a fun car and later my daily after I've worked out the I presume numerous bugs. Hope I'm not asking too much of the old Honda but so far it seems to me as close to a weekender/daily in one car as one can get in my price range. In this first of many potential instances I turn to you for your knowledge and would like to know how much I'd be shooting myself in the foot by getting the aerodeck rather than the liftback. As for reasons, they are mostly aesthetic. Although it might and in the upcoming years probbably will come in handy to have lots of bootspace, it's not the selling point for me. What is is that the car looks more mature and also pretty stealthy apart from actually being more after my taste. For that I am willing to sacrifice some degree of performance. So far as I've gathered, the deck is a tiny bit heavier and naturally less stiff of a chasis due to it being essentialy a box on wheels without the bracing behind the backseats and more weight in the roof. Among anything that comes to mind I'd like to know whether the popular ZX suspension swap is possible with the deck allegedly having a different rear than the liftback and the MG, and the difference in parts availability both oem and aftermarket. Cheers!

Afternoon, has anyone fitted a works bell boss and quick release to their aerodeck? many thanks.

Hi guys! Just got my oem bbig foglights.. my deck didn't have any so have to change the switch. But one set of wires was cutout can you guys help me find out where does the cut wires go? And will i need a separate foglight relay or controller?

Hi guys i need help with my aerodeck! So my deck is fitted with headlight washers, my dimmer switch is f**ked so had to short the black and red wires. But then my headlight washers switches my rear foglights. Rear foglight switch doesn't do anything. Please help!

A 1.6 VTEC Aerodeck that is suitable for my purposes as it meets the London emissions rules has come up for sale. Unfortunately It is almost 150 miles away with no MOT. That makes going to look at it a problem with lockdown and the risk of being fined. Whenever these cars come up for sale they are never anywhere near London. The mileage is 139,000. Seller claims the manual gearbox is noisy. Asking price is £300. It failed an MOT earlier this month on the list of problems below. Looking through its history it has never failed on any structural rust which is a good sign. These defects seem like they could be sorted fairly easily. Does this seem like it could be a worthwhile project? Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Nearside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii)) Service brake excessively fluctuating both front (1.2.1 (e)) Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Repair as soon as possible (minor defects): Windscreen damaged but not adversely affecting driver's view (3.2 (a) (i)) Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i)) Fuel filler hoses heavily corroded Nearside Front Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f)) Offside Rear Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement trailing (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened front (1.1.14 (a) (ii))

So, as I've just posted in my thread, it seems that a good place to start in trying to track down a boot leak is the same as a known defect on the Jazz. It's described pretty well in the thread on this forum post below, but I'll copy it in case it ever disappears. From reading the Jazz forums, folk are saying that it's happened to eg civics the same way. Fingers crossed this has fixed it - I'll keep an eye on it that's for sure. https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=9460.0 #1 Unclip gutter trim on drivers side (UK) by pushing back at end while trying to lift about 6" further back.#2 Peel back and unclip at other end.#3 Remove slime and debris from gutter. Find tiny crack and test it with a paint brush bristle.#4 Wonder how on earth so much water can get through such a tiny crack.#5 Scrape out old filler from panel join in last inch of gutter.#6 Wonder why they built it with a gap at the end.#7 Mask area with tape.#8 Fill with polyurethane sealant like this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949 (NOT silicone!)#9 Smooth over with plastic offcut then cover with touch up paint when set.#10 Marvel at dry boot, think about replacing rusty jack.