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Hi guys, I guess just abit of a safety announcement? I've currently got a spare seat and noticed the below crack on its drivers seat base! (right next to the mounting bolt hole) Obviously I don't know if the seats were abused previously but thought i'd flag it up incase it was age/fatigue related: Note: It didnt affect my plans for this though : (apparently its not allowed in the house and must stay in the garage haha)

Does anyone know what size (MM), what size length and what thread the wee bolts are that hold the rear ABS sensor inplace at the rear of the brake disc and along the length of the cable? Every single bolt on mine is gubbed so don't want to reuse them.

Am I right in thinking that the only difference fitment wise for dc2 shocks is the forks on the rears? When I got the skunk LCAs fitted they needed to machine the bush down to be able to fit the shocks, so presumably the LCAs were eg/dc2 ones. I've got to get some better shocks, and miss the konis I used to have, and am thinking about going down the integra route if it will work.

Hello guys. I recently purchased a car I always liked. The Aerodeck! In my case it was meant to be just a cheap, reliable and versatile car. But as all things, I kinda fell for this old sucker! For the money it's still a very competent car, from doing the motorway miles to doing the IKEA run! Here's some pictures of it so far

Was browsing the web and stumbled across this site. Know our Civic Aerodecks are getting harder to find for sale in the UK, but in other parts of Europe it seems they are still plenty for sale (and the prices are surprising considering the mileages!) Honda Civic Aero Deck used cars, Price and ads | Reezocar Just a pity they're all LHD

I am just after some pictures of a rear arb set up or a link to one so I know what to look for when I get round to doing a rear arb setup on my Aerodeck. Many thanks!

Hello everyone, I see this pic today on FB and I'm crazy looking for this white rear lights, any know where I can find? Or maybe is a diy mod?

My new MC2 desperately needs front suspension work and all the control arms will have to go. Concerning parts purchase, this might be my first chance to spice things up. Knowing (thanks to you guys) that the ZS180 has revised arms to induce increased caster and learning of the benefits and drawbacks, I'm thinking maybe go for ZS control arms as oposed to stock. Will they be a direct fit?

Well since this is for sure the place to be with its fountain of priceless knowledge, really great members and i plan on never getting rid of this super cool wagon ive decided to start one of these So picked up this its a 2000 d14w4 es spec auto on 125k one company car for first 3 years, two elderly owners 17 years then a younger chap just over a year. The car came with receipts for everything and i mean everything down to windscreen wipers. The car came to me with optional extras like speedline alloys, larger fogs. Also came with a few wee trick bits like a vtis front valance, proline coilovers and a ep3 steering wheel (which everone says dont fit but previous owner said it went straight on even the wiring just plugged straight in ) So far ive done a few wee bits and bobs First up i purchased big daves double din console and took the plunge to cut out quite a bit behind the factory set up lol Tidied up the front grill with a wee paint using a satin surround and a gloss badge Had the timing belt and water pump replaced Done a couple small repairs of my own replacing a abs sensor and stripping dow the drivers door mechanism as it wsnt working. Turns out a pivot point hd sheared so drilled and tapped it to just a bolt then it stripped off 6 teeth ....... did i say i can be tight and a bit mguver lol so they were ground flat and drilled and tapped to take m3 bolts which were then dremeled down to reshape as teeth Fixed is fixed and if it works it aint stupid i believe the expressions are, if you hadnt guessed im a scot so can be very tight with money Current diy job is improving the grubby sagging headliner (bear in mind i said im tight and improving not fixing as that would imply i was doing a good job lol) So come this point if you havent fell asleep or gave up reading my drivel well done and thank you, heres some pics to make it worth while

So my headliner was starting to resemble the interior roof of a french boudoir or something from low budget greek era movie So me being me loving a bit of a cheap work around and my wife banning me from spending more money decided to go at it as cheap as possible Im sure it was less than £10 work of top quality pleather or leatherette (same cheapo rubbish whatever you call it lol) and a couple tins of spray adhesive ive started to tackle the roof I know it was looking a bit grubby but once it was out the car it was 21 years worth of grime and really wanting changed Its not back in yet but heres where im at so far ......... bear in mind ive never attempted anything like this before so there are marks and creases as i didnt have any where to unfold the fabric to let it decrease. also blimming amazon chinese sellers finest sent two batches that are slightly different. Messaged and they cant guarantee the same batches its just pot luck but i can live with it and thats what matter ....... i recon lol

After getting bitten by the Honda bug and owning 4 hatches of various generations, I went away from Hondas for a few years but found myself constantly looking for another one. Managed to get my hands on this VTi Aerodeck, had just 77k on it when I bought it and was too good to miss

Just asking if there is a common problem with water dripping onto the front seat belts? Sun roof is clear and not blocked (encase someone was to ask) and it only happens on the passenger side. I was originally thinking that it may have been the roof rails but on inspection there is no water running from the roof. Looking at how wet the belt gets I feel the car should be a few feet deep in water but it is not. The other annoying thing is underneath where the belt is bolted to the bottom of the car it is dry and no water is sitting so it is clearly running out of the car. And the carpet does not get saturated. It get a little wet but not very wet. Any advise greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Does anybody know if you can fit the mg zs 180 rear arb to civic mc1 (non VTI aerodeck)? i woud have thoughtso, but id noticed that they dont come with the rear subframe brace or front strut brace, and the mounting points arent there to even fit one?

Is there a rear seat that has a three point middle belt? I think I've seen one on a Google search but can anyone confirm? And would it fit into my 1999 model as I think these were put into the later models after 1999? Cheers.

I have an aerodeck vti and when I bought it, I decided instantly it was too soft and handled like a barge. So I managed to find an mg zs 180 rear arb and ordered a set on eibach springs. Once it was all fitted the car does seem alot better, but it's still really soft. I don't think the dampers have had it, I just think there too soft. After reading, I keep seeing about the zs180 shocks, but it says they'll lower the car another 15mm (which is don't want it any lower, just firmer). Butni keep seeing people say get the zs120. So I'm confused and can't find a definite answer. So keeping my current eibach springs, which would be better, Zs180 or zs120 dampers? Thanks.

Feels like it is going to be itr cam time soon, and thinking about gaskets. I think I know the answer to this, but worth asking the question.... Stick with oem honda gaskets, or are after market ones any good? Honda head gasket kit from tegiwa is £215 https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-upper-head-gasket-kit-b-series-b18c4.html Full rebuild kit from Japserviceparts is £108, but not honda parts. https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/honda-civic-vti-b18c4-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit/

Went into the office today for the first time since last March, and in the way in, found myself in traffic next to a parked FK8, and it dawned on me that they're very similar size wise to a Civic M. Just been checking out of interest, and these are the dimensions for the wheel track and wheel base. FK8 : Front/rear track 1,600/1,593mm Wheelbase 2,700 mm Mc2: Front/rear track 1,465/1,470mm Wheelbase 2,620 mm Now that would be a cool (and expensive) swap...with some flared arches of course.

Unsure if this has been answered, but i have a mc2 and one of the wheel bearings has gone. After buying 4 so call "4x114" wheel bearings, which turned out to be 4x100, i have gve up and decided to convert the rear wheels to 4x100 as its alot cheaper and parts are actually available. I dont want to convert to 5x114 as its a pricey upgrade and i like my 4x114 wheels (im going to use 4x100 to 4x114 adaptors). My question is though, what discs do i buy? obviously i need 4x100 260mm discs, i know the mgzs 180 discs are 4x100 and 260mm, but i do they fit the standard MC2 rear calipers, as on mtech brakes, they show a 1mm difference in offset between the mg and mb6. thanks in advance.

Sorry if this sounds like a broken record, ive been doing loads of searching and cant seem to find exactly what im looking for. Just picked up my aerodeck and found that people say to fit the mgzs 180 rear arb (20mm), as this is a straight bolt on part. But, if one of these cant be found, is there any other straight bolt on arb? ive read the DC2 isnt as the bushes are in a different place and so is the ek. When looking on any parts website, when you go to the car select, they never list the civic mb/ mc chassis so it makes it a little hard to find parts. again, sorry if this has been asked a thousand times.

Hey all, A question I'm not just 100% sure on and maybe somebody can help. I got my hands on a set of pistons and rods for the vti deck. Now on closer inspection it appears I have got type r rods and pistons. So the question is, can I put these straight into the standard c4? Mixed answers online. Some saying cams and a map are needed. Or would I be able just to put them straight in with no real.dramas? Many thanks all.

Hi guys! Just got my oem bbig foglights.. my deck didn't have any so have to change the switch. But one set of wires was cutout can you guys help me find out where does the cut wires go? And will i need a separate foglight relay or controller?

Hi guys i need help with my aerodeck! So my deck is fitted with headlight washers, my dimmer switch is f**ked so had to short the black and red wires. But then my headlight washers switches my rear foglights. Rear foglight switch doesn't do anything. Please help!

A 1.6 VTEC Aerodeck that is suitable for my purposes as it meets the London emissions rules has come up for sale. Unfortunately It is almost 150 miles away with no MOT. That makes going to look at it a problem with lockdown and the risk of being fined. Whenever these cars come up for sale they are never anywhere near London. The mileage is 139,000. Seller claims the manual gearbox is noisy. Asking price is £300. It failed an MOT earlier this month on the list of problems below. Looking through its history it has never failed on any structural rust which is a good sign. These defects seem like they could be sorted fairly easily. Does this seem like it could be a worthwhile project? Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Nearside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii)) Service brake excessively fluctuating both front (1.2.1 (e)) Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Repair as soon as possible (minor defects): Windscreen damaged but not adversely affecting driver's view (3.2 (a) (i)) Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i)) Fuel filler hoses heavily corroded Nearside Front Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f)) Offside Rear Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement trailing (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened front (1.1.14 (a) (ii))

So, as I've just posted in my thread, it seems that a good place to start in trying to track down a boot leak is the same as a known defect on the Jazz. It's described pretty well in the thread on this forum post below, but I'll copy it in case it ever disappears. From reading the Jazz forums, folk are saying that it's happened to eg civics the same way. Fingers crossed this has fixed it - I'll keep an eye on it that's for sure. https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=9460.0 #1 Unclip gutter trim on drivers side (UK) by pushing back at end while trying to lift about 6" further back.#2 Peel back and unclip at other end.#3 Remove slime and debris from gutter. Find tiny crack and test it with a paint brush bristle.#4 Wonder how on earth so much water can get through such a tiny crack.#5 Scrape out old filler from panel join in last inch of gutter.#6 Wonder why they built it with a gap at the end.#7 Mask area with tape.#8 Fill with polyurethane sealant like this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949 (NOT silicone!)#9 Smooth over with plastic offcut then cover with touch up paint when set.#10 Marvel at dry boot, think about replacing rusty jack.

I came across this roverdeck today and thought I'd share it on here and see what u guys think about it