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D16y2 in my mb3


LloydMB
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So I'm thinking/ looking at getting a d16y2 to drop in my mb3 rather than buying a new d15 as it's only about £170 pounds.

Has anyone done that, or know of it would be straight forward, and what can be done with the engine, in way of mods ect.

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It'll bolt right up to the old mounts and the loom is the same aslong as everything is the same spec wise and you haven't got proper VTEC on one of the blocks Like the z6 as you'd need the VTEC loom too (not sure about i-VTEC?), physically the blocks are the same and if you drop the catafold off and bolt a 4-2-1 up you'll get better power out of it ;). Always do I/h/e. The D Series are great little blocks, Sleeper's z6 which is going in was over 250hp before it was pulled out the old ek.

You can... ITR box with a Pipercross filter or a decent cone like a Pipercross or an Apexi which are foam (Stay away from eBay specials, K&N cotton fiber types or halfrauds as they start to implode when clogged). Smoothed and polished throttle body, manifold and backbox should be a bit better.

Not sure if your current 1.5 ECU will work very well with the new block?, do you get all the loom/ECU with the d16? Or is it just bare bones? Because the fueling might be off or ignition being 100cc less although the same bore but the strokes different, right?

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Brilliant, how did you get 250bhp, with a turbo?

I believe I'll be getting the loom, ecu, the full swap.

Is would the catafold be the same length as a 4-2-1? The breaking car actually have a pipercross induction kit on it, maybe I could get that too :-)

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Well Jack's (Sleeper) my boyfriend :P

Yes Its turbo'd with a T3/4 Hybrid running 1.2 bar with Suzuki vitara pistons, eagle rods, high angle cam (Realllllyyyy lumpy idle, sounds like a Scoob!!) and a balanced crank and retarded timing by like 3-5°. It had like 420ft/lb, used to hit boost then crossover to VTEC all the way. Had a Hondata though as it was converted to OBD1 with a P28 ECU ^_^

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What car is it from? That would be of some help... If its a EG/EK/EJ model it will probably be a OBD1 but could OBD0, if its a M its probably a OBD0  :shock:

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