jamezzz

My ABS light has been going on and off for a few days now. Comes up as code 13 after a bridge test, which would be my passenger side front sensor. With it being intermitent, would that indicate more a dirt problem or just a sensor on it's way out? I had new outer CV joints fitted last August so I would have thought the teeth would still be clean? How do you clean the sensors? Do you have to remove the sensors to clean them? If a clean doesn't work and I have to source a second hand one, are the fronts sided or can you fit them to either side? Many thanks!

Having sorted and sealed the leaks in the back of my MC1 Aerodeck, I recently discovered I have exactly the same issue as mentioned above and have done all the same tests with no obvious answer. My car sat unused for 10 days over the Xmas period. It has rained for days and the car was all misted up so I feared the worst and felt the carpets... passenger side was drenched. I took out the passenger seat and pulled back the carpet. It was like a pond! The carpet and underlay were saturated! Water would run out if you squeezed it and the black mat that runs up behind the dash is equally saturated. I have done all of the checks as above and can't see where the water is coming in. I suspect it is coming through the heater system down the intake hole under the plastic scuttle shield but can see no evidence of this as the gaps where the trough meet the wings are clear and allow full drainage. (As do the sunroof drains.) The water is definitely water and not coolant. The tops of the A-pillars are dry amd there is so much water I would doubt it could be the windscreen seal. Did I understand correctly that perhaps I should bend the metal shield (that protrudes from the leading edge of the hole) in towards the cabin of the car, incase drips were coming down under the plastic scuttle and running into the hole? The mastic around the underside edge of the plastic scuttle is pretty tired, so perhaps a bead of Tiger seal around the edge would help stop water ingress?

Problem solved! After much investigation my leaks are fixed! It was not the roof rails. Took them off and all the mounting points and pegs are part of the body shell - so no possible entry for water what so ever. The water was coming in through the white bumper brackets, sunroof drain ends and the top and bottom window pegs. These pegs must locate the rear side windows correctly in the factory while they are being sealed. Bought some black UPol Tiger Seal silicone off Ebay for £6 delivered. I took the headling down, made sure the 4 sunroof drainholes were unblocked and put sealant on the tips before putting the pipes back on. I then sealed around the sunroof drain ends in the boot, along with the bumper brackets and that side vent flap thing on the left hand side. I then took out the tail-lights and sealed around the rubber bungs that brings the wiring into the car. I also sealed around the washer jet pipe bung and the tailgate wiring bung. Then I masked around the rear side windows and the bodywork surrounding them. I then applied sealant around the windows into the gap, smoothing it with my finger as I went along, like siliconing the bath. The finish looks great and you would never notice the factory hadn't done this. My MC1 is navy blue which helps I guess. After all this, I have a dry boot at last! My car smells very chemically just now, but hopefully this will pass. With the cold weather due this week and the misting issues that come with it, I'm glad I did this now. Not a great deal of work. The headlining drop was surprisingly easy too.

Thanks for your input! Definitely my first place to check. Sure I saw a roof rail removal guide on the forum somewhere too.

Haven't had a chance to investigate the roof bars/strips area being the culprit. But was out at my original soon to be scrapped MC1 last night to get a tool from the boot and seeing as I have all the boot linings out following the strut removal, I thought I'd check the leaks on it too, that I never fixed. With the lining out and the 24 hours of solid rain, the pools and runs are in EXACTLY the same place as on my new MC1!!! Both sides, with a single run down the inside of the rear quarter panel, from up high in the concealed sections, approx 6" in from the rear corners of the car! I'm convinced it's the roof bar gutters, but I have two MC1's with boot leaks in the same place, so surely another forum member will have had and identified the source of these severe boot leaks?!

Sounds like a plan. Want to get this sorted asap before the cold weather and misting issues begin.

From my brief water jug test over the end of the roof rail/gutter strip, that may be the answer. Time to buy some silicone me thinks!

Thanks. Here are the photo's: Photo's 1, 2 and 4 show the water runs coming down from the concealed area where the rear side windows are. There seems to be some drops around the black hose outlets in these areas too. Photo 3 shows the puddle both on the inside and the outside of the lip between the inner section of the boot and the cutout section where the outer body skin is.

It's definitely not the door or boot seal as the water runs are visible on the inside of the outerbody, coming down from the concealed area up near the rear side windows. I wish I could post some photo's of them on here somehow.

I have just bought another MC1 Aerodeck and I'm in the process of swapping all the good bits from my condemned-soon-to-be-scrapped black MC1 onto this better blue one. I had all the boot plastics and carpets out to swap over the struts and the minor water leak has turned into a massive one. On the left hand side of the boot there is a load of water pooling inside and out of the cutout section to the outer body that houses the vent and what I assume are sunroof drain houses. I mopped up all the water so it was all dry. It rained all night and the pool is back. It's about 1cm deep! There is a visible run from high up, right down the inside of the outer body approx 6" from the rear corner of the car. It appears to be in the same place on both sides of the car, but much more so on the passenger side. Before coming to work, I poured some water on the plastic strip at the tail end of the roof rail and the water run seemed to trickle more. There seemed to be some drops around the hoses inside both side panels which I think are sunroof drain holes. The rest of the interior is dry, just the severe boot leak to fix. Any ideas where to start looking/sealing? The sunroof seal looks a bit baggy at the front so I'm temped to silicone it shut for good anyway. Or is it something else that's the issue? The water runs are high on boths sides. I have good photo's of these leaks to help diagnose them, but can't see where I could upload them to this post.

Thanks for the info. I have a spare set if I choose to go down that route. Cheers!

I'm sure I saw a quick mention on the site somewhere about a modification to the front shocks giving a 10mm extra drop. Could someone elaborate on this for me please?

Thanks. Will have a look when I do the swapover next week.

I did the wire bridge fault code check on the blue 5 pin plug which gave me 1 long flash and 1 short flash. So according to the trusty Haynes manual it's code 11 which is a sensor fault at the front right. I am breaking my current MC1 and putting all the good bits on another MC1, so I have a working sensor to replace the hopefully faulty one. My question is, does the sensor wire unplug from the car at the loop just above where the bracket is bolted (2 bolts) to the inner wheel arch? It looks like that's where it is but I didn't want to just start pulling at it. I am taking both front hubs off the condemned MC1, having new wheel bearings pressed into them and then fitted onto the good MC1 with new outer CV joints and new track rod ends. (The good MC1 has a sheared wheel bolt. Both cars have a duff wheel bearing too.) Hopefully this should be a drama-free swap-over. Hmmm.

My MC1 Aerodeck is pretty low and currently runs 7" x 17" alloys with 205/40/17 tyres with an ET38 offset. I have had no clearance issues at the back even when fully loaded. They catch the front arch now and again but only just. I have been offered some other alloys with great tyres for a steal but they are ET45. Will these be ok and not foul the suspension components or inner arches? Remember, my car is an MC1 so didn't come with the high offset factory wheels like on the MB6 and MC2 VTI models which I assume was because of the different hubs?

It was just to save me a wasted journey if any of you could advise me beforehand.

From your photo's, my 'deck sits about 1" lower.

Because my car is so low there is quite alot of negative camber front and rear which pulls the tops of the wheels in, hence no rubbing, even with a family of 5 and a full load of holiday luggage. My current alloys are 7" wide with an ET38 offset.

I have 205/40/17 tyres on my MC1 Aerodeck. It is lowered on MGZS 180 shocks with Jamex springs with 2 coils cut off front and rear. I folded back the archliner tabs on the front arches. The back arches are stock have never rubbed and the fronts only catch lightly now and again. All 4 tyres are badly worn on the insides due to the ride height and need replaced. I have been offered a set of different 17" alloys fitted with 215/40/17 tyres. Has anyone else run this size on a pretty low Aerodeck? Am I asking for trouble? I will try and find out the offset.

Thanks for all the info. I will give the boot seal a check and also invstigate the sunroof drain issue. The water runs seem to come into the spare wheel well from the sides. It's not the bungs as they are fine and have used them to drain the water out as sometimes the water in the well could make a good pond. Will check all this at the weekend at let you know how I get on. Cheers!

I have an ongoing issue of water building up in the spare wheel well in my 2000 MC1 Aerodeck. On an EK4 Civic I had before, I had the same issue which was caused by failing light gaskets. I fixed them with a bead of silcone onto the perished gaskets and this fixed the leak. Is this likely to be the cause of my water leak on my Aerodeck? If it is the cause, I take it the rear lights come out pretty easily? Thanks.

Hi. I have a major problem on my hands. After a total bodge-job done on the rear brakes by the previous owner on my VTI Aerodeck, the recon rear calipers and rear pads were fitted without the pad retaining clips etc, resulting in the pads janging about and driving me mad with the noise. I got a second hand pad carriers, pad clips and the bolts off Ebay in great condition. I did the drivers side swapover in just a few minutes. The passenger side is currently a disaster. The bottom bolt of the caliper slider was rounded. Seeing as I had spare bolts and sliders and rubbers, I hacksawed off the bolt head and then hacksawes through the slider. This is where the problems arose... the bloody slider is seized in the pad carrier, so I can just swap over the spare sliders and bolts etc! No problem I thought, I will just unbolt the carrier from the hub and use the entire spare carrier I had. But the 2 bolts holding the carrier onto the hub are now siezed!!!!!!!!!!! Aghhhh! Any ideas anyone? Should I cut off the bolt heads? The pad carrier is threaded, but is the hub threaded where the bolts go through? If they are, with the disc removed, could I drill out the boltsfrom the hub? I have spare carriers and all 4 bolts. Or do I admit defeat and take it to a garage who could get some heat on those bolts?