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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
dr_broon replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
Cool. Been really impressed with delivery times tbh. - Yesterday
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тату оборудование joined the community
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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
mc2hammer replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
Thanks, ordered yesterday and part has arrived already, so can't fault their service. On initial inspection it looks ok, fingers crossed all will be good and will fit etc, but was assured by J&R it was the correct part for the vehicle, so can do no more than that. -
Really good work done by Joe 👍
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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
dr_broon replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
Been fine for me so far (touch wood) . Lots of folk on here have used them over the years. The vti-s differences are cosmetic only 👍 - Last week
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Thanks man, I got the MeisterR anti rust spray too, also grabbed the damper extensions, make something cool to adjust from the rear speaker area. For like £20 the anti rust spray bottle was like 10cm tall, tiny! Hope it's good stuff. Waiting now for something to help me press out the LCA bushes, maybe a 6ton press arrives for my birthday. 😁
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LindaAwasp joined the community
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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
mc2hammer replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
thanks both, are you happy with J&R then dr_broon, you must be if you have fitted them twice, only I have read some rather mixed reviews (they seem too cheap ?). AKR Performance have TrakMotive part which costs 3.5x the J&R part but, if you reckon the J&R is ok, then I might as well stick that in and give it a whirl, so to speak. I'm hoping to fit it myself, as the job doesn't look too difficult (famous last words) ?? As per title of thread, I only have the VTi not Vti-S btw, if that makes any difference, I need to correct my profile description. -
Thanks @Dave, anyone seen the newish series by Roverjoe on youtube? Damn, the initial rust on his arches and sills filled me with proper dread but he, for an armature, did very well! Still so crazy the inter swappable parts from the rover 45/400/mg zs.
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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
dr_broon replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
Yeah my passenger side one went a few years ago under power pulling out of a petrol station in busy traffic. I've just had to have the driver side one done as the joint was goosed. Used j&r both times. -
Nice work @AdzVTIS yeah, the sill ends, inner sills and top and bottom of rear arches is a common rot spot on these now. Depending on how the rest of the car is and the price, it might still be worth getting. Can always use it as a haggling point. Just bear in mind that to get it repaired properly at a garage won't be cheap, so you need to figure that into the equation. You won't necessarily get back what you put into them when selling, but that's the same with all cars tbf.
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Help pls - MC2 Aerodeck 1.8 Vti - driveshaft snapped
Dave replied to mc2hammer's question in SOS! Help!!
Not had this happen on mine (fingers crossed!) But know others have deffo had the same thing happen. Don't think they were the strongest drive shafts even when new tbh. The VTi/VTiS have more power than the usual D series so probably why more of those I've seen snapping the shafts. Glad it was only at low speed mate, could have been nasty otherwise. -
Nice suspension set up you've bought mate. Had them on both Ruby and DD, but put DD back to OEM suspension as went a different route with her now. I'd suggest spraying them with rust prevention stuff though, as mine looked awful when I removed them from DD. Only a couple of years if I remember rightly but corrosion was quite bad on them.
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This has just happened to me. Driver's side has snapped, looks like at the damper (apparently goes rusty under them and cant be seen, and is a well known issue according to the recovery man) Found this post on the subject (link below) Looked up J&R looks like they still do them for the car. There are 3 available, 2 outers and an inner, obvsly need to replace the snapped OS one but I guess would be sensible to do the other (near) side too asap as clearly this is a weak spot and is an accident waiting to happen. do i need to do inner as well though ? for now though just want to get her running again to see if anything else has broken. shouldnt have done as it happened at low speed / moving off. and can select gears ok still. Cheers for any advice from others that may have suffered the same. It seems like it's a common issue though ? Old post I know but any update on this - I have just got an issue that the recovery driver reports as being snapped driveshaft, sounds like this damper could be the problem ? will inspect and have a look under in the light hopefully tomorrow. Just been on to J&R looks like still available, 3 parts available, inner and 2 outers, should/ do I need to replace all 3 ? is the damper just on the outers ? I'll probably do a new post tomorrow with more info
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Post changed, user blocked. Gold coins for sale indeed.... 🤦
- 9 replies
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- general chat
- honda civic mb6
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I had some skunk lcas to go in when I got the bushes swapped, but they're were all done by the garage that was doing the resto. Good Jake came along with the answer above
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Easiest way to get these out I've done it many times. Heat them with a blow lamp till they burn. The rubber turns to ash and you can take the tube out. Then cut a slit in the outer ring in two places 180 degrees from one another using hacksaw or similar. Really easy.
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Yo @dr_broon, damn man, my bushings are stuck TIGHT! Is the sleeve also supposed to come out? haha, I bought a bush press tool... broke it... did your bushes come out fine? I've seen some folk burn them and hacksaw the sleeve, seems end game tactics lol.
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Hey Bro, Same with the one I wanted, common area. Poked and made it all worse haha, was the same on the other side, but the stability was still there, so a couple of small welds and used Isopon skin, high build primer, done. Got the other areas the side trim attaches to (in pics) back to bare metal, Jenolited everywhere, painted. Annoying at the time I painted gloss black to get it protected as nh605p was out of my dead budget! So check the side trim as it will have work for you :P You one looks better than mine, still be prepared as Kink says, that rust is coming from the inside out, you need to get at the source. If you love it and really want it, get it and sort it.
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KiNK43 started following mb1 convergence (toe)
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Rear toe is adjusted from the link at the very front of the trailing arm. In front of the large bush. As for settings. Most cars something like 1 Deg tow in rear is satisfactory. But if take to to a garage that does wheel alignment they will look up the correct settings
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- honda civic mb1
- honda engine d16
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srexhow started following What tyres!
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SPAM
- 9 replies
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- general chat
- honda civic mb6
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KiNK43 started following Sill rust concern and Lexy junior! Daves 8th gen Civic Type S GT
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Sounds like you got a pearler there Dave. Looks minty fresh
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Also common rust place on these is the front floor under the front footwells. If sill are rusty I'd expect to find rust on floor too and towards the front of the sill behind the skirt.
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Hmm I wouldnt. It's a common issue for sure. But they rust from the inside out usually so if you attempt a repair be prepared for the inner sill jacking point all to need repair. Gets expensive quickly
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Went to view a VTI-S on the weekend and was presented with this. Is this just something you expect to live with when wanting a 90s honda? Would this put you off. This is the only patch I could see. https://ibb.co/MpwJsWn
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A weekend wrestling full rusted bolts... the ache of getting off the LCA's... horribly rusted and pitted 😔 Going to need some serious effort, any advise? Going to grind, use some high build primer and silver enamel paint, we will see... Thanks to Broon, getting the full strongflex poly bushes, thanks for the link bro.
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What ever you put in, as long as it's with love, it's all great!