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Welcome aboard  :),  enjoy your uncomplicated MB2.

Thanks Finch, i'll start with the smaller socket and some freezing spray... and very crossed fingers!  

I assume you mean the nipple? The oldest most recommended trick is to get a deep socket 1mm smaller than the nut hammer it on and remove it with a breaker/ratchet and then get another nipple and replace it. The probability of removing the nut is going to be slim AF unless you can super-freeze the socket to silly low temps and pull nut out, so get a socket you're not too bothered about binning (cheaper than a new caliper!!)   Other than that there is the possibility of drilling through the middle and using a tap-die, thread it to accept a different bleed nipple IIRC the Micra/March K11, Almera, Primera P11 ones are around 2-4mm thinner than the Honda ones so if you found their thread size might work to thread in? Or a motorbike one might work aswell.   Another method would be to chop it off with grinder flat to surface face, drill out remaining bit, tap it wider than you need, fit a helicoil and replace with an OEM sized nipple - though not sure how well heli-coil's would work with fluid? or a combo of this and above might work tbh   Or very worst-case scenario, look for a machine shop near you that does various engineering tasks, has a lathe etc and give them the caliper ask them to remove the nut and maybe re-thread if they need to (I.e if they drill it out) - I'd get a new nipple in-case they do  and ask them to thread to that size. DemonTweeks in the UK have various brands including Goodridge ones in stock in various sizes but might be cheaper to get something closer to home.   Before you refit the caliper, if you're drilling or tapping i'd get some fluid and flush the caliper out to clear any metal particles inside, basically filling up with fluid until it starts leaking then let drain over night, dry and flush with compressed air too this stops the chance of a fragment working through to the rubber boot or jamming the piston up

I had the same problem on my MC2 some month ago. I replaced the battery of course, but I didn't solve anything. After a more careful inspection, however, I finally found the problem, as the solderings between the LED pins and the electronic card inside the fob were damaged. I simply re-soldered them and the fob came back to life immediately (obviously with its inherently poor range due to its IR technology...)

I skipped this one. After a while of googling i couldn't find a website of any sort about them, only 2 tuning shops in the Netherlands that sell them. They do look like pretty much the rest of the cheap aftermarket rear camber kits, but this was just suspiciously cheap. Maybe i'd buy them for a low n' slow stancer, but the idea of testing them on the track became a bit too daunting.