E=MC2

Yes, that is temperature range during year, and now whit this 10 40 i have to strugle with gearbox when the oil is cold, and outside is only arround zero. But philgor dont you think that thinner oil will make shifting more dificult? And i still cannont get rid of impresion that from some reason lever is not possitioned right. Reverse gear need sometimes pulls untill gears position to fit. Ok, i can pull little harder, but thats not solution, i dont like to torture gears. Allso, second to first need additional force, third to second need little throtle blip.... Do you think that it is only oil, and nothing but oil, or can be some way to mechanicaly calibrate something.

ok ill look in that section, thanx for infos if someone know can lever be miscalibrated or any other reason for tought shifting, please write.

All Honda manuals, and many owners sais that 10w40 can be used. Ok, i have LSD, but even my manual says that 10w40 can be substitute for MTF. Allso many owners claims that they ruined their box bearings with thicker oil. What is MTF grade? I doubt that it's any thicker than std. engine oil, and what can be used as good MTF substitute? And what do you think about cause of my problems which are the same before and after oil replace. Ok, i will consider another oil, but i would like to solve the problem, if the cause is something else other than oil.

Hi guys, i have strange acting gear shifting on my VTi aerodeck, and i need your opinion. Last summer i done complete clutch service. I changed clutch oil, slave cyl., installed brand new clutch kit, and greased all moving parts. And result was great except little hard shifting when i slowly move lever, no metter if oil is cold or warm (situtation is some better when i warm gerabox). When i torture the car, shifting is good, but when i try to drive slowly, and shift gently, i feel something like small step, and sometimes i feel gears engaging on lever. Today i have decided to change oil, and after reading manual and some forums i fill it with Eneos 10w40. And now on cold gearbox i think that shifting is worse, but on warm is little better, but that small step and gear locking feel is still present. Allso, sometimes reverse shift is hard (if i do not want to be rude and wait gearbox to drop smoothly, i need to repeat it few times), and all the time 2nd to 1st rolling shift need some force. Synchros are ok because i never have grawling, and i shift precise and fast, but those upper problems leads me to think that from some reason my lever is not calibrated well. Is that engine mounts or stabilizers, engine bad position, lever joints or bushing, something inside gearbox or some gremlins, i am not smart enough to figure Help, i'm very sad and mad

yup, 2 black,blue,brown,grey but i need to make complete new wires for right mirror please link the diy topic here when you make it

Baseplate does fit perfectly, but connectors doesnt. Rovers have 2 more links because of heater wireing, so i would need to do connector swap. And i will put the command on rear window heater, without any increases in fuse resistant, because heaters themself are very low consumers.

heres the answer colors seams that they are the same tone, but amount and size of metal crystlas in it make that colors diferently react to the light and view angle, and change the behavior, so sometimes rover color is little darker, and sometimes little brighter

I need to change mirrors, and both right doors beacuse of several minor colisions. I dug silver metalic Rrover 45 on scrapyard, so i can bolt mirrors and doors on my deck, but i'm interested how different paint codes (and look) are. However i need to paint a whole car, but untill then i would like that those mounted stuffs visualy bland into car color

Because of completely crashed left, and broken joint with DIY flat mirror glas right mirror i need to change them both. Today i found both heated electrical rover 400 mirrors for excelent price, so i am thinking to mount them. Honda mirrors are expencive and very hard to find, and they dont have heating. On the other side, these Rover ones are allso silver metalic, heated, and easy to find again if i broke them again. WIll baseplate fit (i do not see any reason why not), will connector fit, and how to wire heating?

What i only wanted to say that by pure eye and hand observation i didnt see how it can be done because of metal tube, but ok i will try, thank you for directions. I'll update you about progres when the snow melts

hondas bushing only as original part, and it is more expencive than whole link tommorow i call someone for rover parts

rimmer is over 1300 miles far from me , i would like to find it somewhere closer today i will get the price for civic 4th gen drop link and bush if it's the same as MG's one, but i am still concered on pressing out the metal tube (filled with bush rubber) which ends are wider then drop links hole so i don see how it will come out i dont know is the metal tube made from 2 halves or is it one piece? If it is one solid part, it wont come out because of upper mentioned wider ends what i know that metal tube have free space in drop links hole and make annoying tok-tok sound

if you want to disasembly the joint between holder and mirror, yup, only those 2 screws

now you sound like Jeremy Clarcson

nope, ITR hits rev limit a "little" later

no i didnt drill a hole, owner before me did it , but yes, you need to make hole through holder and mirror (they are made from alluminium) and put screw in it to stop rotating this fellow does all the magic how do you mean to open the mirror? if you want to fold/unfold mirror, you need to unscrew only this new screw if you want to dissasembly the mirror, you need to unscrew those 3 screws, and take off mirror glass (please look in the manual, scream if you cannot find )

On my MC2 right, and on MB6 left mirror is tied with one screw bolted from underneath so i believe that previous owners had simmilar problem as you which they solved it this way They cannot move anymore, but they stay still. So i think that only 2 solutions are screw and new mirror

then i will consider MG ones Do you know where i can find exact data for hub ofset on MB6 and MG ZS. MB stock rim is et55, bit that doesn need to mean anything

i allso think that them should be same, pictures allso tells that but if i see well, the part numbers differs slightly as you can see in links bellow http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/honda/part ... /5_B__4300 http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/honda/part ... /5_B__4300 please help me with reading these EPC data

Guys, i need help. 7 days ago some Laguna driver crossed to my lane and broke my left mirror (LHD drive). He told me that he will found me a another mirror, and now he needs as more data as it possible so he can find it. I know that electrical MC2 mirror is same at all MB and MC cars with electrical mirrors. But becasuse mirror skeleton and electric mechanism is in great shape, with the aim of increasing options and speeding of search i am interested does plastic outer shell and mirror itself fits from non electric MB/MC and electric/mechanic MA Civics And is mirror maby same on EK civic? I know that mirrors fit from Rovers, MGs, and other Civics, but i need same mirror as original because of simetry with right one Please help, this is urgent, i am blind

wheels arived too late, they need to wait new sumer driving season but today i renewed hub conversion idea do someone think that it is posible only to take of my 4x114 hubs, and on my bearing mount 4x100 hub from for example Civic MB1 or Rover 400 with prelude 282mm 4x100 brake disc? in my poor expirience and strong logic theres only 2 preconditions 1. wheel bearing must be the same on MB1 and MB6/MC2 2. brake caliper distance i know that on VW Golfs 5x100 -> 4x100 and oposite hub conversions are possible, because of total compatibility, but i dont know what is situation on our chasis please correct me if i talking silly things

thanx mate, i have alredy rejected this idea becuse of minor gains, and big losts maby ti will open gearbox and install some gears from B16A2 gearbox, but that is now far away future

eureka this is civic 4th gen sway bar drop link looks pretty much the same as MG's one, but ill like to know are they same lenght and mounting points

yes i know, only i think that whole clutch mechanism stays on car, only the gearbox swaps but, i dont think that i will do this because i dont want to lose LSD, and according to chart from the link, only the second gear is a little shorter, and even not short enough

i have spare S9B VTi gearbox some friend offers to give me gearbox from civic EE9 i-VT (b16a1 150hp), and i to give him B18C4 gearbox S9B(MB6) Y2(EE9) 1st 3.230 3.25 2nd 1.900 2.052 3rd 1.360 1.416 4th 1.034 1.103 5th 0.848 0.87 FD 4.266 4.133 LSD YES NO ***if these Y2 ratios are not correct, please write new, correct ones now, the question is: beside loss of LSD, if i pack these B16A1 ratios on my LSD, how good/bad car will be for daily drive i will also consider packing B16 onto my LSD please help me, this is urgent