Hakosuka

I figured out that the Immobilizer cuts starter AND fuel. So, if anyone will be doing this, convert the Immobilizer unit wiring and it will at least have starter signal. You obviously need the right key. (Key->Immo unit-> ECU ; they must all be from the same car (same code))

OK, so I got an MC2 aerodeck VTI without the engine and box in a car exchange. As I already have a B18'd Civic EF, I don't need another fast car. Sooo, I bought a D15Z6 economic engine from an EK, which is sadly OBD2a. What I have done is this: - I made another hole for the engine harness in the body to rund the OBD2a harness inside. I just left the OBD1 harness in the car. -On the OBD2 harness, near the ECU; there is another mistery green connector. I tracked down the wires, and made a adapter harness out of an old OBD1 ECU. -On the drivers side strut tower connector, I depinned the OBD2a connector and inserted the pins in the old OBD1 connector from an old harness. Now, the problem is...My ECU doesn't get the power source. I tracked down the OBD2 harness and the same wire goes from the drivers side strut tower connector to the injectors, IACV and to the ECU. I don't get 12V on the car side of the strut tower connector. So the car itself doesn't give the power. Also the fuel pump does not prime. I checked all fuses and it seems OK. I didn't try another main relay under the dash. Anybody done a OBD2 engine to OBD1 car conversion? I am considering buying an D15Z8 (MB3) ECU and converting the engine to OBD1.

Nice power! How much is the TB better than stock? What exactly did you gain with it? I use a ITR pipe and the TB is too small for the pipe. I might upgrade the TB aswell. Is the engine response better with it?

KINK43, what are the mods and what power is it producing?

I'll see how it works with this one and then go from there. I might get some cams over the winter and map it in the spring.

OK, so I figured out that Crome already has a P72 map. If anyone wants, he can make it himself. You need to copy P72 tables in the P30 basemap. Use guide here: http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm. Don't forget to copy the Ignition tables also.

OK, great, I found out that P72 is preloaded in Crome. Great info! Should I up the VTEC to 5500rpm guys? Heard that it's a good mod when having a Skunk2 intake.

Do you think I should get a P72 map instead? Because of the mods?

I use a Skunk2 mani, so no need for IAB. The option is to use http://www.xenocron.com/custom-basemap-file-p-56.html this file from american B18C1 (GSR), basically same as our C4, but has knock sensor, which is disabled as per description. If I can get a C4 map from UK I will be happy I don't want to map it just yet, (quite expensive here ~300€) because I will when I upgrade my cams. Just don't have the funds at the moment. I might put some B16B or some other brand, higher compression pistons with cams and tune it then. I just have some basic breather mods (ITR airbox pipe, EK VTI airbox with K&N, Skunk2 mani and a full 2.5" exhaust) I still need to make a traction bar to fit some other exhaust header. Now only the stock one fits. Car is 4gen EF Civic sedan.

My ECU died the other day and now I need a stock B18C4 map to write on a P28. Does anyone have it, I would be using Crome.

The engine goes in a 4.gen sedan, so about 250-300kg weight difference to an Aerodeck. I think I won't have problems with hills.

I won't pay 50€ for 0.7kg difference. The guy who lightens them, said 5kg. I think it would make noticable difference.

How much should I take off? I searched, but couldn't find a suitable answer. OEM one is 7.7kg apparently, Fidanza's are 3.5kg, I wouldn't want to go that light, probably even not possible on an OEM flywheel. How much would you suggest? What weight is still safe for OEM fly?

Dude, it's a R34! It's a GTT though Only two Skylines in Slovenia

Over the last couple of weeks did some more work on the car. I needed to replace my radiator as it had a slight leak. I got it second hand (almost new) for 110€ with the slim fan. Then I broke the CV joint and pulled the box off the car (I though it's the gearbox' fault for crunching). While I was at it I pulled the clutch and it was pretty bad. The metal around the springs was chipped off, so I ordered an Exedy OEM replacement unit and replaced that with couple other things: I changed the halfshaft oil seal and the crank oil seal: I also replaced the flywheel bearing as it was really f**ked up. Barely moving. Looks like it wasn't the sealed type which is bad. And now some pics of the car, so you don't forget how crappy it is: And another one with my 3rd car: