hickster
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Posts posted by hickster
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Nah forgot to ask them for a diagram
, google's not turning up much either.Now looking at your pic it does look a bit like it's wired for the 'negative at rest (actuator interrupt)' mode. Need to crack out the multimeter and get a decent diagram I think.
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The Orange is either not used (positive or negative pulse) or is used as a ground (single point). The wiring diagram for negative locking is whites for the pulse and yellows both to ground. Positive is the same but yellows both to a positive supply. The other option is 'negative at rest' where the feeds from the cl relay go to orange and the tails from the actuator go to whites, yellow goes to a positive supply.
This probably isn't a job for Sunday; might wait and give Hawk a call!
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I have this.
I think it's due to my door seal. Doesn't look corroded much but it's so flat that the door sits in the A pillar 4-5mm!!
Gunna get that replaced soon.
Yeah I was thinking drivers door seal. Mine misses the bodywork in the top corner and has a rip halfway along as well. I have patched it up with some neoprene strips, no luck so far though in stopping the leak. The doors do sit under a bit though- to stop high speed wind noise I assume.
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Opie also do HAMP filters now- I found the valve helped with cold startup; no idea if it's better than going for 5w oil though.
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Motul semi 10/40 for me or Mobil super S or whatever its called now. Regular changes are the key to a happy B/D series.
Motulgear in the 'box too (solved a few problems but still a little crabby to get into reverse when cold).
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I put on my mb6..
Eg still got its original 21 yr old remote.
Just checking before I do this job; Jake did you wire as a straight 'single point' system (with the orange cables grounded)? Looks like you did but just thought I'd make sure!
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I had my windscreen replaced in November, as I had the same issue as you I was preparing myself to scrap it there and then. To my absolute surprise (also considering it had cracked in from the edge when going over a speed bump) all that was revealed was factory fresh paintwork and an intact seal. It had been changed at some point in the past and was not the original seal, but the fitter reckoned it was pretty rare for a seal to fail on one of these. They are nice and wide and very far inboard. All the plastic trim around the screen is completely cosmetic. The sides of the screen form a drain from the roof gutters; I would guess it would be very very bad to silicone anywhere near here.
I now know for sure that my screen seal is good and that the sunroof is sealed but I still get a soaking wet headlining above the drivers door only and only when it rains. Gonna rip it out soon; I'll let you know what I find.
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Those door handle clips break all the time you can usually get em to stay with a small zip tie for a bit. Getting the door cards off is a bit of a mission the first few times until you get the technique. Next time your in the scrapyard grab a few of them as spares (along with a handful of trim clips and those caps that go on the grab handles
). Theres a good breakers near Crawley if your heading down to Nicks.For the dash trim remove the instrument cluster surround and work in from that end. If you need to lever against the dash use something really wide like a 3" scraper.
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One word TRINITY
Probably give that one a big ol' tick I reckon.
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Mostly service bits- my aim is to keep it alive this year;
Belts service Nope
Decent front brace Backyard Special- so JDM yo!
5.1 flush the brakes Done, much better.
Front balljoints and track rods (already ordered) ​Um….still in boxes.
Possibly some more polybush action Nope
Noticed my rear shocks have Delphi stickers on them
, change those to Bilstein/KYB Koni Streets fittedTry and make the inside of the car drier than outside (mainly sunroof delete) Semi successful so far.
Try and loose some of the rat look body panels More ratty looking than ever!
Paint the rocker cover Fresh & White!
If I get through all that then might order some Eibach springs
Koni blues fittedWell; getting there.
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The Fall Guy.
The unknown stuntman who makes Eastwood look so fine. 
Think his was an also awesome GMC, that one belonged (eventually) to a Mr McFly.
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Shogun
I had a mk1 lwb 2.5 turbo diesel on compomotives and BFG AT's. Was awesome until it rusted into a pile of dust!
While we're loosely on the subject- the vehicle I wanted as a kid more than anything. Stuff the A-team van, submarine Lotus, Trans-Am with a red light on the front or a Dodge with no working doors.
Hilux + Daylighters = Hell Yeah!
![[smitten.gif]](https://civic5.com/forum/uploads/smitten.gif)
I also like that gen of Micra
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Forgot to add, think I found where the water leak is coming from, top of both A pillars were damp whilst it was raining yesterday!
Been having this problem for a while. Def not windscreen or sunroof, pretty sure it's the door seals.
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Automatic aircon delete!
It's trying to tell you to end the neglect and get on with the modding!-
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Because Hako.
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Im in! Mini meet would be cool, Pease pottage services is always quite a good place to meet (just off a23/m23 near Crawley)
Right next to the scrapyard, could be handy!
![[smash.gif]](https://civic5.com/forum/uploads/smash.gif)
After his recent run of cars is he not probably just driving round and round grinning to himself?
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Yeah Honda-tech.com and D-series.org would be the first look for mini-me info. I would suggest though that unless you actually enjoy doing that kind of work don't do it. It's not a lot of bang for the buck and usually seems to involve working out lots of small issues; great if you like a challenge, frustrating if you just need a working car monday morning.
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Here i am after few days. DC2 aligment is because service didnt have MB6 or MC2 file on his machine. But, wheel base, front and rear track and suspension is the same as DC2, so i think that this setup is good. But this isn't the core of the problem, because my car behaved this way with stock and MG ZS suspension, with bad and good wheel aligment and with new and now used tires. Now normaly worse than with new tires, but without some big difference because of tire wear.
Heres demonstration video how bad it is. Captured 2 days ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4_Tu9QOqWM
Sure, it is hard, icy sufrace, but slope is small, and fwd lsd car with winter tires just must move, and it isnt.
Don't know anything about driving on snow really but in the video the rears also lack grip so I would point to the tyres being the problem. Your car should be as good as any other fwd without traction control I would have thought. Maybe try a thinner section like 175 at the front?
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insurance isnt too bad for a Vti or fuel consumption either, im sure it wouldnt be half the mpg of a mb3!.
Not quite 25 combined against 41 iirc, have temporarily lost my Honda mpg figures but there is a thread with them on somewhere. Tax is £125. The point I was making is that the MB3 is not sh!t, the MB6 though obviously superior in performance is not for everybody. Especially for younger drivers the performance difference may not be worth the cost. The '3 is a very capable all rounder but like all M's suffer from an Image problem when actually it compares well against cars marketed as being fairly sporty.
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More Spoon Hardtop love
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I was just thinking about a TRA-KYOTO / 6666 customs S13 and how they all have aggressive lines and rivet on battle ready arches... May be an Mb/ma could be treated to something like this
Only one way to find out
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There's at least 3 I think on the short street I live on. You can't go anywhere on the south coast without getting stuck behind some old giffer in a civic. Mine nearly always look worse because um… I am a builder and I run my 18 month old around in it
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Could keep going for ages on HTF; it's all there in between the bosoku stuff.
http://high-top-fade.blogspot.co.uk
Here's a few more-
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Prepare for a HTF onslaught!
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Oil, some basic advice.
in Engine
Posted
Only the shortie version I believe.