hickster
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Posts posted by hickster
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There is a thread for this already but it is pretty dusty. We can carry it on here I reckon!
Linked for pea-roast reference-
http://civic5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4716-inspirational-jap-cars/?hl=inspirational
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Sell your MB3 and get a VTi, pick a good one up for under a grand now, much better bang for buck than trying to get more out of your MB3.
Except you will pay twice the tax, a lot more in insurance (depending on who you insure the mods with) and get half the mpg. A few breathing mods should give you more power than a mk4 GTI with over 200kgs less kerb weight. You may get lucky with a VTI hunt but a few members seem to be struggling to find good ones at the moment.
Honda WTCC dont think so!
BTCC do
Everything is better in a hearse.
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+2 on the plugs- use the correct oem NGK plugs. Honda recommend the irridiums for longer life, but only worth it if you can find them cheap. They will not be giving any power increase over standard. Don't know how long the Denso last but should be about 10 years going by the cost!
As Emil says best way to a bit more power is either a good panel filter (minimal difference) or integra setup (smoother airflow). Don't put bits of heatsoak prone sh!tty metal tube in there or massive filters there is only so much the TB can cope with. Then lose the catifold for a normal 4-2-1 then get a good custom system built with a sport cat in it. The gearbox is the thing that will make the most difference- if you don't do many motorway miles the best UK source would probably be from an MA8.
A really good service including the gear oil may do more than a lot of modding will of course.
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I've gone non deck- such a sucker for wheels!
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Oooooh.
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Ah cheers- been trying to paste into the main box
images kept coming up then disappearing when posted.
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That insight mad!
Mmmmm
Nice that one! and remember slammed = better drag coefficiency = better mpg; so it's the only sensible way to go really
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2002-honda-insight-modified-rear-bumper.jpg
Ok sorry, hot linking images is really not working for me at the moment
anyone know if this is a forum issue or some apple bs? -
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Wow there really are a lot of nasty looking modified Jazz/Fit on google! Quite like this one though.
I'm quite taken with the idea of an Insight as a mpg daily (flawed technology I know but if your going to get rid before any battery issues…) certainly a bit different; you may have to grow a beard though!
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Just checking in to say 'awesome job'!
New rear lights in mmm bit dark but do like the look
That's darker than Darth Vader's nutsack!
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Sad to hear that the mazda is a cool looking car. My mum had a Modus; it was snot green and had ginger eyebrows. I always referred to it as the 'toadus', eventually she got fed up with the stupid headlights and other mechanicals and bought a 1 series diesel- go figure.
Is that age Jazz the one with the HUD on the screen? did a couple of long journeys in one of those, seemed ok from what I remember. What about the EP1 civic or whichever the eco one is?
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Thanks for the vote of confidence but Matt (Hickster) is the real guru on this subject.
Tom has put it perfectly all I will add is use a tyre calculator to compare your originals with the upgrades to try and keep the rolling radius the same.
Thanks Nick, my wife found that highly amusing for some reason- the phrase she used I think was 'nerd more like'.
Yes the size you want is 195/45 r16. Chopped oem linear springs are not great when they bottom out- better if you have a stiff arb though. A drop of 50mm will probably knacker the stock shocks fairly quickly. Progressive springs are not too pricey-
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Hmm…. I think there may be demons hiding under those carbon stripes.
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It actually not that bad dude. All wiring done right there in footwell.
Whe ya order tell them what car. They can send a paper with typical Honda wiring colours and locations.
If you don't have any kind of central locking at all you'll need to fit actuators to each door that you want to open and close with it! Jake has covered the rest above!
Ah ok cool; so you don't have to swap out the actuators if you already have them? For the cost of the kit I am going to give this a go, it's driving me mad!
Expect a picture of my interior covered in wires soon; I still don't have a working radio even!
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Anybody fitted a kit like the Hawk one to an M that already has central locking that works off the drivers door lock? (the MB9 never had remote locking, just off the key).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360394597855?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I literally have no idea with this kind of thing; was thinking that you could just put an actuator on the drivers door? I saw that Kink put it on the EG but I didn't think they had central locking to start with?
It's the one thing that's driving me crazy about the car at the moment- but involves got scary wires n stuff!
Edit- just noticed thats the wrong kit, we need this one without the actuators and stuff (HA-008)
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No worries
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The info you need for an MB3-
The wheel PCD (pitch circle diameter) is 100mm- you have 4 studs obviously. Many Japanese cars like the Accord are 114.3mm, but some earlier Civics are 100mm.
The size of the centre bore is 56.1mm (used mostly by Honda and Vauxhall, aftermarket wheels will reduce down to this size with spigot rings no probs). This is important Honda are 'hub centric' (the weight of the car is taken by the wheel not the wheel studs).
The stock ET ('einpress tiefe' or 'insertion depth' in English) is 45mm. Between ET45 and ET38 will usually not throw up many handling issues unless you have very wide rims. ET numbers are always stamped on wheels originally sold in the UK.
Not many alloys use Hondas style of wheel nut so you may need new ones if going aftermarket. The thread size is M12 x 1.5mm.
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There must be plenty of cheap preludes about.
Half decent red tops are holding value, MB6 would be cheaper but you may get lucky.
B 20 tad more torquey. With a vtec head on they usually make around 185bhp.
B20z is the better choice for higher rpm.
Also f series used in prelude and accord is very different to s 2000 engine.
It's more like a larger displacement d series. Sohc!
X2 The S2K longitudinally mounted f20 is a different high revving beast.
The H22 is popular for drag spec EG's and the like but is a big engine and a lot of work and cash to fit in an M; much better left in the superior Prelude shell if possible. I mean a lot of cash even before the punitive insurance and tax costs. and the sump is very very low in the ones I've seen.
B20b or Z1 out of crv would be good but arnt they slower/underpowered compared to B16 B18? Also would the running gear fit aswell, looked on wiki and says the JDM domani MB6 was offered with a 4X4 system borrowed from the crv!
Yeah had a look at this before- certainly seems a possible conversion with a bit of underfloor chopping. Not many people seem to like the part time system in the CRV though.
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Looking good; you're not going for a Civic5 inspired race livery full wrap then?
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Thank you for the replies
Dno what that "project" would be thou. Any engine tuning would be for more fuel efficiency, any exteriour tuning would be minimalistic and descrete ^^
But Id like to find some cheap but good looking headlights to replace my current. Maybe tint the windows. Any suggestions of cheap tunes that'd go along with my ideas?
As Tom says the only option with the lights is replacement stock units or custom made projectors. What most members do is fit Ring xenon ultima H4 bulbs and cree sidelight bulbs; this is usually enough to turn the poor stock units into something that can cope with north european winters. If you need more fitting driving lights in the fog light mounts might be a better solution.
To increase the engine efficiency look at breathing mods (good high flow panel filter like K&N and perhaps a sport cat or higher flow manifold), efficient plugs like NGK irridiums or Denso, maybe new ht leads, good quality oil and a blue Honda oil filter (or green HAMP one). I found that a gearbox oil change also helps.
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Right decided for definite, going to keep my little m. Its not worth selling it for £600, the money would be handy but I dont need it.
Im going to keep it mot and taxed but strip it right out and dip my toe into some weekend motorsport fun. May even make a couple of civic5 meets by just taking out a days insurance.
Its such a sound little car and I have a garage I can store it in, plus be nice to have a project to work on. Especially as not going to do too much to the Mazda (wheels of course though)
Plus I need a reason to keep coming on here....kind of addictive!
Awesome- I think I have said before I reckon the smaller M's are a better option for grassroots hill climb/rally/sprint etc. A MB6 would be up against meany Evo's and the like. I would do the same if I had anywhere to keep one; give me a shout if you need any spannering time!
You need to remove the springs and shocks, replace with bricks and MAN THE f**k UP! Lol
No, seconded on the roads around here- every day is tarmac rally day. I am only lowered 35mm and already battered the front tow hooks just diving to work. Not sure the Koni's are intended for getting air time though (not kidding).
Cheers lads, started clearing it all out today, removed the sub, notice boot carpet a bit wet so will have to investigate that
Don't worry- rip out all the interior and internal drains then fibreglass/sheetmetal sunroof; sorted.
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Just wondering how much abuse my D14A2 can take in my MA? As I am going to swap it out for a more powerful unit at some point. So I just want to know how long it will last with a heavy foot. (I do maintain the engine fully with regular servicing etc.) I have heard that the D-series engine is a tuff old unit.
At least one million miles, don't worry about it. It will not be what finishes off your MA8; the engine will far outlast the rest of the car.
My wife has a Punto, it's pretty reliable generally (and a bit s**te obviously but in a good way
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Classic, stanced, hellaflush, race, best japanese car picture thread
in Chat Lounge
Posted
There's quite a few bad links on the original thread as well.