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UKCivic

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About UKCivic

  • Rank
    Newbie

Personal info

  • Name
    Neil
  • Age group
    41-45...Midlife crisis!
  • Location
    Kent

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC LS AERODECK
  • Model code
    MB9
  1. Civic MA9 1.5 VTEC-E or 1.5 Aerodeck wanted urgently

    Now I'm gutted I didn't bid on the 1 owner 56K MA9 that was on ebay a couple of weeks ago, it was in Cheshire so a bit of a trip but it only made £161 - of course at the time I didn't need a car, now I'd happily give three or four times that amount.
  2. Civic MA9 1.5 VTEC-E or 1.5 Aerodeck urgently wanted preferably in the South East as I'm based in Kent so it's a bit impractical getting to Scotland or Cornwall. Any colour, low mileage desirable, oh....and I haven't got a massive budget as I've spent far too much on keeping my last one going!
  3. headlining

    Here are two solutions to the 'Arabian tent' headlining problem that affects our Civics when the glue and foam deteriorate, replacement with a better example or retrimming your existing one, either with a standard look or custom material. (Burberry tartans probably a bit 90's now but if moneys no object and you really want to go crazy look on Youtube for 'Cash Cab' or Google image search 'Limo Lighting') Headling Removal and Installation It's fairly straightforward to change the headlining. Firstly either remove your seat headrests or even better lay your seats down completely flat to give yourself as much room as possible for when it comes to removing and installing. Remove the grab handles, sunvisors and interior light, unclip the plastics from the A, B & C pillars, pull down the tops of the door rubbers, there are 2 buttons and a plastic turnscrew in the middle of the headlining that need to come out (a trim fork is the ideal tool for removing them) and if your car has a sunroof you'll need to pull off the finisher that goes around the edge. The headlining should then just fall down and can be removed through the rear hatch. If installing a better headlining from another vehicle then, in finest Haynes manual style, replacement is the reverse of removal. A tip here is to either make sure you've got very clean hands or put on a fresh pair of latex gloves so you don't get any dirty marks on it. Don't worry too much if it does bend or crease slightly, when it's fully up you'll barely notice anything. Don't make the same mistake as I have done previously in spotting a good condition one in an MGZS/Rover 45 and only finding when installed that the sunroof aperture is slightly wider than the Honda one and the 2 buttons are in a different place. Perhaps the Honda era Rover 400 may be the same – take measurements. The sunroof model headlinings are moulded around the aperture so I don't know if a non sunroof headlining could be cut to give the same satisfactory result. Headling Material Replacement If you plan to retrim your existing headling you'll need to remove the original material and any backing from the board with a scraper. I recommend you source a foam backed material as per the original from a proper car upholsterers or similar supplier. I did a Volvo estate a few years ago, they suffer the same problem, and was able to find a perfect match. When buying material it will probably come in the standard widths of either 1.5 or 2 metres. Allow a reasonable overhang on the length as it will be easier to handle while glueing on and there's nothing worse than starting at one end and then finding the other end is an inch too short – you won't be able to peel it off and have another try without ruining it so be generous! For a light foam backed material a good quality aerosol adhesive is probably most suitable - buy the strongest you can find - you don't want to have to do the job twice by using the cheapest stuff. You'll need at least a couple of cans for a headlining, maybe three as you don't wan't to run out halfway through. If using a heavier trim carpet material – the sort of thing you find in minibuses and motorhomes, then brush on contact adhesive may be better. Check with your material supplier what he recommends as some glues can react badly with the foam backing and melt it (try a small area or offcut first if unsure). PLEASE be careful when using glue and before starting check for all sources of ignition, naked flames, and obviously smoking is a complete No-No. Have a fire extinguisher to hand in case of anything unexpected - I have seen a length a glued carpet catch fire and its terrifying! Do your glueing in a well ventilated space, ideally on a fairly cool day - if it's a hot or breezy day the glue will have dried at the furthest edges before you reach them. Always follow the instructions but most glues you apply to both surfaces, allow some time for them to go from being wet to tacky, so you can touch it with you fingers and it grabs but not completely dry, and then put the surfaces together. Spray glue tends to have a very short tack time - assuming you haven't completely drenched it! An assistant is very useful at this stage to help with laying the material on the board. It may help you to mark a centre line along the length the board. If you have an assistant the easiest way to lay the material on the board is with a person at each end of the length flip it over so the glue side is facing down then bring the corners together so that the centre fold hangs at the bottom (like folding a double bedsheet in half to form a single) then manouvre over the board and lay the centre fold on the centre line of the board. Then starting in the middle push the material onto the board using a brushing action, rather like laying a bed. IMPORTANT - With a foam backed material you need to gently apply pressure - if you push too hard the fabric outer will adhere directly to the board and you will not have the nice cushioned effect. Foam backed headlining material is very flexible and easy to form around contours and curves without creasing. I prefer having an assistant to help with laying the material on the board but if you're on your own there's nothing wrong with starting at one end and working to the other, just be certain you're not going off at an angle – with both methods the important thing is to be sure that the material isn't accidentally sticking to the board further along where you don't want it to. And finally when cutting off the excess, using a Stanley knife remember to keep your fingers out of harm's way and make sure you have a fresh sharp blade as a blunt one will snag and may ruin all your hard work.
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