jasons

fraid so, need to remember these have never been made before, so the tooling has had to be made to do this, this takes time, along with lead times and shipping. If the tooling was in place, an 8 week lead time would be typical. ! it took nearly a year just to get 10 peoples names down for this, that's more shocking!

this is the first batch that have taken a lifetime! But tooling had to be made specially for this as its never been done before. One of the screens has been damaged also, so we're one down. I have not even seen the screens yet, and until its fitted I will not be ordering the second batch. All being well, the second batch will take 6-8 weeks from ordering, so they will be here way before winter.

they have arrived!

I thought the car was essentially the same as the MG ZS? If so, the ZS ran 17's as stock, 7j on early models then 7.5j. I have run 18's, and if the offset is right, it is not a problem. There is no reason why you can't run 8j with the correct offset, most people just want to stick on big wide tyres and often over tyre the rim, if you do then the tyres will scrub, but if you choose a tyre size that sits square then you should be fine. clio cup runs a 200 wide race tyre on an 8" wide rim, with that in mind, if you ran a 215 road tyre on an 8j with the correct offset you should do it also. rolling the arches is no hardship, I often do this by hand with a nylon face hammer (frank sytner bmw did brand new alpina's this way in the day - it is not a bodge) or you can hire a tool to do it. either way, a good hot day or warm the paint a little to prevent it from cracking and gently work the arch forwards and back, you will gain an extra 10mm on the rear, the fronts may be partly rolled at the factory, the ZS arches never had much of a lip.

17x8 et35 could fit if you have about 4 degree of neg camber on the front, you would stand more chance with et45 8j if you don't want the camber. as for 9j, I run 9j but my car is pretty much pure track and has 4-5degree neg camber, on the civic they would foul the arches, you can roll and stretch out the arches to accommodate the 9j and it has been done before. this was done using td 1.2 wheels which are a true motorsport wheel which has a smaller profile to that of the more retail orientated wheels.

arriving in southampton on 23rd, be available a few days after, drop me a line or post if you need it posting out, or if you are collecting...

your chassis will not be a rolling chassis that you need to move?

bad shock or shock oil overheating, if its as low as you say are the shocks only working on the last inch? try raising the platforms to a sensible/more stock level and see if the problem is still there, it will be easier to deal with if it has a more appropriate ride height.

Just spoke to Ricky, he should have a sailing date within the next few days, but estimated time at the mo is end of the month/first week in April.

no power steering will jerk and kick back at you, have a look at mark hales when he drove the caterham supersports vs porsche's at cadwell and oulton, pas in the porsche mad real light work of things. Have you looked at epas, assuming there is enough room for the rack still, use an electro hydraulic pump from mr2 or a-class merc. even the no hydro, electro pas column from a corsa c is a good candidate

xpart never made them, they simply bought all the old mgr stock after the collapse. xpart have binned lots of very expensive items over the years, because stocking the parts costs more than the profit on the few they sold. Likely the same with these bushes, they don't go wrong often at all, they must have had a shock to have 60 requested in one go.

Am I right in thinking a dc2 rear arb can be fitted if using an asr rear brace like this ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Rear-Su ... 2ec5ec0954 ... (not mine) if so, does the dc2 arb have shorter arms? - trying to compare pics on google the dc2 version looks far less convoluted than the zs which seems to have its droplink points much further from the bar centre than the dc2. I would like to get uprated arbs made for my zs, stiffness is related to the distance of droplink from centre, so an arb with 2 or 3 droplink holes is in some way adjustable as you can vary the length of arm from arb centre, thus altering its leverage force making it softer or stiffer. Ideally, I want to template from the least convoluted bar with the shortest arm length from arb centre, so the simple questions are; can the dc2 arb be used or does it need the asr brace? if so, would the dc2 arb be a better template than the zs?

I wrote that. the upper arm that has the 'l' on it thats meant to be fitted to the left hand side of the car (passenger/ns) fit to the right (drivers) instead, this will increase castor - not camber. put the left and right arms one above the other and it will all become clear.

if you two are interested, I have another guy building a race zs to add to the list and I may have 1 as a spare, so you will need just 1 more name.

these can now be ordered in batches of 5. It is a long lead time. The orev. order is not due in 'till end feb/early march. there is also a page on the xpowerforum.co.uk mg site, so as before, it is a mix of civic and mg screens to make up an order.

ring ricky evans motorsport and ask him if its too late to add to order or not.

They are not known to fail on the ZS, in fact, I have never heard of this bush needing to be replaced on a ZS, so if its a genuine ZS part, I don't know what people are whining about. I have of a pair of 90k bushes I removed, not because they were worn, but because I went spherical bearing for a track car, if anyone wants to inspect and tell the others that they look as good as new then they are welcome to. Derby.

cheers guys, the eg and dc2 stopper is the same, so if the dc2 stopper works on an mb6, I'll try one of those. Thanks again.

Just want confirmation really looking at a brake stopper, but a little confused as to which one would fit. (its actually for an MG ZS) should I be looking at the ek or something else? I did a search and this was asked before, but the ebay link was for a lhd one, so not sure if the sellers been changing his stuff around - it was 2011 the post.

cut off was 3rd jan for any extras, so order has been placed by Ricky Evans with the manufacturer (safety glass tyneside I think), so we should be seeing these early March if not before - in time for the snow.

I Have fitted (one side so far) spherical bearings in place of bushes, removing the old bush is not that bad a job and the bearings bolt in place. I'll post up how they feel after next trackday, I really doubt I'll notice any difference on the road in winter other than a little more noise?

LaST CaLL... order will be placed on or before MoNDaY 26th NoVeMBeR get your name down soon as so you don't miss out on possibly the best non-performance mod you could do to your car.

LaST CaLL... order will be placed on or before MoNDaY 26th NoVeMBeR get your name down soon as so you don't miss out on possibly the best non-performance mod you could do to your car.

So far, just DeLaSoul from this forum is 'in' If I can get 1 more 'in', then we can get these ordered, I have 8 'ins' on the mg xpower forum, 1 from here, just need 1 more. Is anyone else up for it? asked the question about wiring, answer is... "Two wires each side at the bottom about 20 mill in from the corner" then it should be possible to do just by slackening off the dash to provide enough movement so as to route the wires, I see no need to remove the dash. My car is stripped out, as is delasouls, so these can be a test bed to find best routes etc for wiring.

lets not let the wiring be the stumbling block here. Out of the 10 people needed for screens, more than half will need help with wiring. The MG ZS and civic 5 is pretty similar even in wiring. Without a doubt, there will be help with wiring and likely a kit can be put together so a competent person could fit it.