joshbarragan

its an A'PEX V-AFC2. not a cheap one dont think?

ep so when you plug the controller back in and put the clip back in the elm srs and abs stay on permenantly

hi yes it gives two long and one short if the controller is unpluged. this code means the vtec solenid is broken or disconected so i belive. do you think the controller is to blame? cheers josh

vtec is coming in fine at around 5800. iabs??? not sure what that is. tried putting standard ecu back in it and its still doing it?? grrr still cant get the fault code up but will start flashing if the vtec controller is unpluged. it just says the vtec solenoid is unplugged though. cheers josh

so ive tried reseting the ecu as described in othere topics, but still getting the same problem. it will pull all the way through the rev range fine as long as you dont hit 100% throttle. hit 100% throttle and at 4k and the light will come on???

ok tried the paper clip test again today, put the wire in then turned key to position two and the eml, srs and abs lights just stay on. remove the wire and they all go out what dose this mean? and where can i find the fault code list? cheers josh

thats what i did?? paper clip in then turn to position 2???

hi mate is there two blue plugs coming of the same bit of loom? i put the clip across the one with two connections and the eml stayed on permently. what does that mean? cheers josh

i havent got a code reader just the orange engine warning light comes on?

hi all, so this afternoon i decided to adjust my tps as i was getting a couple of degrees turn on the butterfly before the sensor was picking any movement up. got it as spot on as i could with a little help from the mrs! so now it drives like a different car, response from the throttle is a million times better! but now when you floor it the orange engine light eliminates? only if you full throttle it though. if you give it 75% throttle its fine put the go to 100% and the light comes on?? before the tps would only go up to 97%. anybody got any ideas?? cheers josh

yh every thing moves really freely now. ill try swaping them over and see if that makes a differance.

hi, so ive had the rear brake callipers of 4 times now and they still squeal. when i first got the car i noticed the rear callipers where dragging very slightly so i took them apart, cleaned the carriers, pushed the pistons back and gave it all a light coating of copper grease. drove it a few miles and they started squealing like mad. stripped them down again, same thing again. took them apart again last night, got a razor sharp wood chisel and cleaned the carriers so thoroughly you could see your face were the pads sit. cleaned up all the stainless clips etc. drove it of and a mile down the road started again. im thinking about getting new pads and discs but the callipers look almost new, no paint at all on them and there’s virtually no rust on them? they still have the bar code stickers on them. does anyone think callipers that look so new could be faulty?? cheers josh

Finally managed to get it in reverse today, but it took some doing! then if you don't hold the stick back it jumps straight back out Looks like ill be looking for a new box soon S80 or s9b that is the question!

all the rest of the gears are sweet. its ultra soomth, even reverse was till the other night the out of the blue it just wouldnt go in? just really cant be a***d taking the box out

so yesterday i pull up at home and go to back the car onto the drive. but no it just will not select reverse. so ive checked the gearbox oil level, yep tones in there. checked the gear linkage, seem ok (any advice on how to check this further would be appreciated) tried driving around to see if it was just the position of the gears, its not. if you push the clutch and pull the stick back its like its hitting a wall then if you let the clutch out it makes a faint knocking noise?? like i say any help is much appreciated cheers josh also where is the thermostat located? cheers