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£600 delivered for this import h22a on just over 57k km which is the 200bhp standard. 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Prelude-H22A-Import-Engine-/261587006587?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ce7ccf47b

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All depends on what your satisfied with at the end of the day.

If you want a h22 then h it is. The only thing is when you start putting different engines in it causes issues and the way the box mates up to the

Engine I've read it makes the shafts sit at funny angles n kills them off n what not. You either do it cheap or you do it right. If I was looking to do the h2b build, I'd be looking at having 5k tucked away for it as youl end up wanting to

Change bits along the way and spending £££

For example the clutch, brakes, exhaust manifold, inlet+ possibly manifold, then the engine will need a full service with possibly the cam

Cover seals n few small bits doing. It ends up costing a fair whack.

H2b kit

Clutch

Engine service parts

S300 or ecu

Remap and tuning

Added expenses (drive shafts, etc)

Upgrades (wire tuck, after market add ons)

 

£519 - QSD h2b kit (£419 for the kit and awaiting reply on delivery charge + import tax so roughly around £100 both hopefully)

£600 - Engine, ive seen these at a bargain price and then i've seen them at the other end ill go in the middle

£0     - Clutch - i do have a new clutch kit already (but just a b series one is used)

£0     - Drive Shafts would just be the ones from my b18c4 now,

£100 - ECU would just be a socketed and chipped p28/p30 (just awaiting a reply on one for £95 posted)

£150 - Remap, a lad round my way has experience in mapping h2b conversions so could get a decent price (rough guess)

£0     - i do not intent to do no wire tuck or nothing yet, main priority will be getting it in and running right 

 

£1369 Total 

 

but then i will have my b18c4 block and ancillaries to sell, H series gearbox to sell.

 

obviously there will be hidden costs and stuff to account for but i don't plan on rushing the build.

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cheers for the responses guys, (i wish that was my mexico lol)  just a quick update on the exhaust...

 

it wont fit, i got a decat and their was still a gap so i got one of those extension pieces and then it was long enough but the holes wouldn't marry up anyway to cut a long story short ive got a teg manifold on and the bolt holes that meet the cat are horizontal as opposed to about a 45 degree angle on the c4 manifolds so i either need an adjustable decat so i can spin it to fit or i need a c4 manifold, My mate has a brand new manifold and we are going to trial it today and if it works no doubt ill be buying it of him lol 

 

that b20 build sounds easy when you put it like that lol this is why i've mentioned it this early so i can get as much research in as possible as it comes off the road in January so not long now! decent figures with the B20 build but from what i did hear before people were saying the teg head is the best on the b20 build, then something about picking the right pistons for the compression, and then adding vtec or something but with them figures it worth looking into and finding rough costs 

 

@Krzys yeah i wouldn't sell my exhaust on here i've put it on the facebook page bud 

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on another note ive just paid for a new exhaust which gets delivered next thursday so mine will be up for grabs for cheap =]

 

New Exhaust

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ive heard mixed storys on B20 builds beast, far beyond my knowledge otherwise i'd love a b20 build lol i suppose i could read into it but its alot simpler and easier and cheaper just to drop a full engine in, im sure when i was talking to my mate you have to get the perfect tolerances and have a proper plan to the build right from the start, even which b20 bottom end to use confuses me as ive heard mixed reports, it would be better yeah but like i say im clueless on that route so no point for me going that route =( 

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SwopShopRacing - 

 

Hello Paul,

 

 

 To be honest with you we do not have MB6 Civics here in the US so I am not too familiar with them. Upon first glance it would appear to me that your car shares traits with a 96-00 Civic EK but just to verify I would have you send some photos of your current motor mounts and engine bay. I should be able to discern from the photos what you will need.

 

 

Brian

SwapShopRacing

 

 

 

^^^ at least he is honest but the QSD one seems more clued up and willing to chuck in both mounts, but looking at the kit the SwopShopRacing one was better for value with what you got irrc.

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QSD -

The MB6 would likely be based around the EGDC kit.  The only difference from kit to kit is the engine mount brackets.  
 
Since you are outside the states I assume, if you ordered a kit I would be willing to throw in an EK engine mount bracket as well to assure you have what you will need.  
 
From my investigation, your car has an engine mount bracket setup based around the GSR B18C 3 post engine mount mount.  The EK here is the U.S. bases its engine mount bracket around a 2 post style, found in the 99-00 Civic Si.
 
Seth@QSD

 

 

 

now this is the one i will be going with due to his answer and the fact he is willing to chuck in the ek one as well just incase! =]

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@Jimbob yeah im running standard DC2 shocks and suspension without the rear ARB and it handles superb for a daily

@beastgtir you are right with a few bolt ons i might not be far away but further down the line there would be no room for more other that reversing and going boost imo,

 

£400 - S80

£220 - Skunk2/Blox inlet

£100 - Thermal intake gasket
£200 - DC2 cams
£100 - Dual valve springs and retainers
£100 - P28 chipped/socketed
£60   - DC2 OEM Air intake
£100 - 70mm Throttle body

£??? - Remap to suit mod's

Hidden costs when doing that is^^ 
 

£152 - Gates Timing belt + Tensioner + Water pump

£10   - Rocker Cover gasket

£27   - Oil filter + Oil
£20   - Spark Plugs

£??? - Labour 

 

 

Although you would get similar gains you would be pushing it n/a side without spending big money, spend the same and you can drop in a H22a with same power and still have the leeway down the line to add cams, bigger throttle body, better inlet, remap etc thats my logic anyway    

 

 

ive had some replies aswell from the company's when i've emailed them about the mb swap and they were saying it would go by EK mounts which goes against the rough general crossover rule but one company said they would chuck in both for good measure which was excellent customer service! ill copy and paste them below...


 

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yeah they do all sorts now, B2D, F2B, D2B lol  

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ill try give them a shout then chandler cheers,

 

Krzys im guessing its because it sits the H block in the OEM B block location i.e retains the B series shafts / mounts box... if that makes sense lol?

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Honda-r only have a couple of bits for the h2b no kits, Tegiwa doesn't have any and neither does Honda PPW lol

 

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http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p4075_Evolution_H2B_EG_EK_DC2.html

 

Evolution H2B kit + Race mounts + Hood Riser = $999 = £592 + Shipping + Import Tax

Includes 

• Complete Instructions and Template
• All Necessary Hardware
• Intermediate Shaft Adapter
• Clutch Slave Cylinder Adapter
• CNC Machined Drivers Side Engine Mount
• Polished Billet Motor Mounts with A70 Urethane Insert
• Transmission Adapter Plate with Dowels

Also emailed these about the MB fitment.

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http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/Kit_Contents.html

H2B Kit :- $699 = $414.59 + what postage / import tax
 

Kit includes:

 Â· 6061 Aluminum Engine Adapter

    - 15 Fasteners

 Â· 4130 Chromoly Crankshaft Spacer

    - 8 ARP Flywheel Bolts

 Â· Intermediate Axle Adapter

    - 6 Fasteners

 Â· Engine Mount Bracket

    - 6 Fasteners

 Â· CNC Clutch Slave Cylinder Spacer

    - 2 fasteners

 

 

I have emailed these guys to see if the Eg/DC kit will fit the MB, still got a few more to check out and compare reviews.

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im not clued up on the b20 swaps i just know they can be a pain to set up and get the right bits!

 

i priced the h2b swap on an eg and found it quite cheap for the amount of power upgrade over a b16a, but problem is that was on a morfs kit and ive now heard he has stopped doing them so instead of £250 kit your looking at £1k but it will be off the road for a year and ill have the b18c4 to sell minus the shafts, mounts and gearbox so every little helps towards the cost. I'm not going to rush it and going to spend the next 6 months researching.

 

weight isn't much of an issue im sure i read a h22a7 with gearbox is only 20kg heavier than a b18c4 but alot more torque and im pretty sure the s9b is shorter geared than the h22 box and ill keep the lsd, then further down the line when i have more money can go 96 spec s80 box =]

 

im sure on the facebook page there was an mb with a h22 i wouldnt mind having a look at his build thread but cant find it =/ 

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H2B PLANS 

My car is coming off the road for a year in january to get a h2b conversion so im just looking for as much info as possible, i previously found info on the h2b swaps on an Obd1 civic so was a bit easier with wiring if i went with a h22a, but im looking for info to convert my mb6 now which is obd2a, so im guessing the easier and better option of a h22a7 would be better?

 

ive tried using the search button but wont let me search H2B or H22 for some reason, i did find a topic which led to an ebay add but nothing helpful =/

 

My List so far:-

H22a7 block with ancillaries (obd2a i beleive)

Morf H2B (no longer available so will have to look at the more expensive kits)

Aftermarket B series mounts

S9b Gearbox 

B Series Hydro Clutch Kit Exedy

Lightened Flywheel

P30/P28 Mapped/Tuned

Manual timing belt tensioner

Adjustable Decat

 

any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I've owned this VTI-S for about 4 months now here is a little bit of info about it followed by some pictures then my plans at the end.

 

it had a couple of mods already which were:-

 

White speedlines,

Red "H" on the grill,

H.I.D's

2.5" custom straight through exhaust,
Mushroom Filter,

 

 

it also had a few issues with the:-

 

dent/scratched wing,

scratched front bumper and missing headlight sprays,

scratched rear bumper,

cracked fog lights,

pulling to one side,

wheels needing a refurb,

interior (door cards peeling, hole in carpet, roof sagging)

exhaust to loud and thin on the manifold,

sunroof (doesn't move backwards only up),

grill needs refurb,

cracked wing mirrors (both).

 

 

So far i have done:-

 

changed wing,

changed front bumper

changed fog lights,

Oil and Filter change,

Spark plugs,

Anti roll bar drop links,

changed to Speedline Chrono's refurbed in ford graphite grey and wrapped in Toyo T1R's

lowered on Integra suspension,

Integra manifold,

Changed full exhaust including the teg mani for a full stainless system, 

Integra Strut brace,

Broadway Mirror,

De-tango'd Headlights,

removed the Air Box Resonator,

Put a B16 Airbox on with new Panel filter,

Undersealed the arches, under the wings, under the front bumper and under the passenger sideskirt.

 

still a few bits to change that i have in my garage but i have been working on my girlfriends deck aswell as it was MOT time lol! still have a back bumper (rear will also get undersealed when its off) and an aftermarket steering wheel to go on, i've also sourced a full new interior =] still on the lookout for some wing mirrors in pirates black!

 

 

CURRENT SPEC:-

 

Stainless Manifold,
Stainless Decat,
ToyoSports Stainless B Pipe and Back Box,

Integra Strut Brace,

Air box Resonator removed. 

 

Dc2 shocks and springs,

06/14 Refurbed Speedline Chrono's, 

06/14 Toyo T1R tyres. 

 

Black Grill with red "H",

HID lights,

De-Tango'd Headlights,

New Fog lights in perfect working order no cracked lenses.

 

04/14 Top camber arms 

04/14 Rear pads and discs 

06/14 Anti roll bar drop links 

06/14 Beneath front bumper, front wheel arches and Passenger Sideskirt undersealed

 

Pictures:-

 

This is when i put Integra w/ Black Eibach Pro Springs on (too low for me so swapped for standard Integra Suspension)