fridazadilak

Sorry to drag up an old-ish thread, but I'm considering a cat back powerflow exhaust off an mb6 for my MC2, will it bolt up to my stock setup?

Awesome, pulled the fuses and now it seems to respond a little quicker to the throttle. Job done (for now), cheers guys!

Yeah I thought the photo was necessary! All these fandangled electrics are new to me...The polo seemed to run on a 9v battery and the Volvo is pretty straightforward! The ECU reset is a good call. I read up and found you pull the ECU fuse and the backup fuse...is that right? Couldn't see it on the fuse board diagram...

IT'S ALIVE!! The part came in today so I ripped the old crap out: Something that might be useful to know if anyone else has this trouble is that the new switch didn't have the cable to power the little red light that illuminates the key hole so you have to reuse the old one and put a couple more spade connectors into the new chocolate block connector piece. Managed to change the ht leads, plugs and dizzy while it was immobile too so next is an oil and filter change.

Not yet...the part was supposed to be in on Saturday but it got delayed until Tuesday. Fingers crossed it should only be a quick job to replace.

Cheers for the replies guys! I think that black wire would've been the earth for an alarm box out something...it was already disconnected when I found the mess of wires. I don't know who fitted it, I noticed on the last MoT that the previous mileages shows that between 2009 and 2011 it only did 1200 miles. Unfortunately I've put almost double that on it in less than 2 months! But it did fly through the MoT on Tuesday with only two advisories about play in the steering rack and the handbrake.

Aha! No it doesn't but it may have had. The key fob is tatty and doesn't look like it is standard Honda issue. Do you reckon I can get rid of that lot then? The stock switch wiring should look like this: Dan

My initial thoughts were some sort of code reader wiring...but I think that's a multi plug in the passenger footwell?

Here's the switch: Melted solder?: Spliced wires: Birds nest!: Fuse holders etc: Micro jack:

Hi guys, Went to start my MC2 Aerodeck this morning and it would start on the key but add soon as you let go of the key it dies. After a lot of head scratching and forum searching I've hopefully tracked it down to a knackered ignition switch. There's fuel getting through so it's not the fuel cutoff and if the key is held in the start position it runs, albeit smokey as hell and the starter isn't having much fun! Took the column apart to get to the ignition switch and it looks alright but one bit of solder looks a bit melted. Ordered a new one from Honda and decided I would start figuring out how to replace it. The four wires off the switch have been spliced into with two red wires which go to a birds nest of wires that's been tucked up by the fusebox. The birds nest has a mini jack, inline fuse holders and cut wires sticking out...what the hell is it?! I'll get photos up in a sec...just uploading them... Dan

That sounds like a good way to drive!

P.s. That photo was in 4th. I've got my MoT in a couple of weeks but it shouldn't be a problem. Dan

Right...haven't managed to do the service yet but my mate from Honda just text saying the parts are there. My exhaust was sounding horrible on Wed night, rattling like a mofo. Just blasted up to Bristol and when I got on the open road...erm...closed track...I was stuck behind another car so sat at 6k for about 30 secs before overtaking. As I put my foot down it got to about 7k and then something shot through the exhaust, felt like a cork had popped out the tailpipe. The revs climbed a lot faster and more freely...and when I looked in my mirror there was a massive cloud of smoke covering the cars behind! I think the cat was collapsed and was restricting flow...and an Italian tune up caused it to sh!t it's guts out! I also topped the oil up and it now does this quite easily: It's not in great health but it's better than it was.

Haha...I'm an Android fan...those overpriced Apple products suck! Hehe! Anyway...oil level was low so I topped it up and just blasted to redline in 3rd. The weather isn't great so don't fancy a top speed check! I'll report back!

Ooh ok...cheers! Just showed it to another Honda loving mate and he had a similar problem on his EP3 when the oil was low. Gonna check now!

Right here's the video: http://static.photobucket.com/player.sw ... 104323.mp4 Trust me I don't normally drive like this but I needed to see what was up. The vtec does kick in at 5.9k, and I feel the little kick at 4.5k. What are the IABs? I'm thinking it might be something like a cat problem because of the fact it won't redline in 3rd.

Ok guys...just done the trip back from Bristol, only got 105. That's it...I had a clear road ahead and that was for to the floor in 4th. I got a video of it which I'll upload in a while...but now I'm off to dismantle the Volvo! I felt the small kick at 4.5k, and hit redline in 2nd but it wouldn't hit it in 3rd. The engine feels restricted somehow. It got to about 7.7k and wouldn't climb any higher. I've put a request in to my mate at Honda for plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor and oil filter...that should do it I hope!

Hmm...don't think so. I'll have a check when it's light. I really need a lockup!

Oh and Nick...what change happens around 4.5k? I hear the very obvious scream at just below 6k but can't recall a lower change.

Yikes...just got an email notification saying I had a reply...there's a full on discussion going on here! Well that's the thing...I've had 70 out of 2nd before, so maybe it was just a strange run. I've got to take the Mrs to Bristol airport tomorrow so I'll give it a boot on the way back down. Again it'll definitely be a closed road (M5) and I'll report back. I've been offered a stock airbox + k&n so I'll get that when I get paid and go from there. I think the cat is ok but I could be wrong, what's the best way to test it? The filter is just a metal one of I'm not mistaken so that's probably not doing it much good. I'll do a service and oil change when I get the funds, it needs it because I'm only getting ~26mpg from it and I think that should be slightly higher. It's mostly town driving...I'm a dominos delivery driver when I'm not playing with rocks at uni!

Hey guys, I've got an MC2 with a b18c4 in it and I took it for a blast the other day (obviously on a closed road with full safety equipment ) and when I put my foot down, it seemed much slower than I was expecting. I maxed out at 100 and it didn't seem to want to pull any higher. It's this normal or is there an issue? The "closed road" was about 2 miles long and straight as an arrow. I've never experienced vtec before at high speeds but it was deafening whilst screaming away, is that likely to have something to do with the cone air filter? My friend has an EK9 and she seems to think it sounds normal...and she works at Honda. Dan

I need to get it up on the axle stands, get the wheels off and have a good look at it, it's got a knackered rear wheel bearing s which needs attention and I'll have a look at the suspension and brakes while I'm there.

It seems strange that they fit a strut brace but no ARBs. Are the MG ARBs just bolt on? Also, just to pick your brains, my MC2 scrapes at the rear when I mount curbs/go over speedbumps etc...sounds like plastic scraping. It's almost like the wheels are fouling the rear arches. Anyone ever encountered that?

Try telling that to the wife! Once the Volvo is back on the road and we get both usable I might get some MG zs shocks and springs and some new wheels, but we shall see!

Tom - No it's still going to be RWD, he's hooking it up to an M90 gearbox out of a late Volvo 940, it's the strongest box Volvo made. Fyfie - cheers...I'll keep the updates coming when I get the new engine! Unfortunately I'll probably have more updates on the Volvo than the Honda...gotta have at least one reliable family car, the wife and 2 yr old have had enough of bussing it!