Hakosuka
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Posts posted by Hakosuka
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OK, so I got an MC2 aerodeck VTI without the engine and box in a car exchange.
As I already have a B18'd Civic EF, I don't need another fast car.
Sooo, I bought a D15Z6 economic engine from an EK, which is sadly OBD2a.What I have done is this:
- I made another hole for the engine harness in the body to rund the OBD2a harness inside.
I just left the OBD1 harness in the car.-On the OBD2 harness, near the ECU; there is another mistery green connector.
I tracked down the wires, and made a adapter harness out of an old OBD1 ECU.-On the drivers side strut tower connector, I depinned the OBD2a connector and inserted the pins in the old OBD1 connector from an old harness.
Now, the problem is...My ECU doesn't get the power source. I tracked down the OBD2 harness and the same wire goes from the drivers side strut tower connector to the injectors, IACV and to the ECU.
I don't get 12V on the car side of the strut tower connector. So the car itself doesn't give the power. Also the fuel pump does not prime. I checked all fuses and it seems OK. I didn't try another main relay under the dash.
Anybody done a OBD2 engine to OBD1 car conversion?
I am considering buying an D15Z8 (MB3) ECU and converting the engine to OBD1.
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Nice power! How much is the TB better than stock? What exactly did you gain with it? I use a ITR pipe and the TB is too small for the pipe. I might upgrade the TB aswell. Is the engine response better with it?
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KINK43, what are the mods and what power is it producing?
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I'll see how it works with this one and then go from there. I might get some cams over the winter and map it in the spring.
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OK, so I figured out that Crome already has a P72 map. If anyone wants, he can make it himself. You need to copy P72 tables in the P30 basemap. Use guide here: http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm. Don't forget to copy the Ignition tables also.
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OK, great, I found out that P72 is preloaded in Crome. Great info!
Should I up the VTEC to 5500rpm guys? Heard that it's a good mod when having a Skunk2 intake.
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Do you think I should get a P72 map instead? Because of the mods?
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I use a Skunk2 mani, so no need for IAB.
The option is to use http://www.xenocron.com/custom-basemap-file-p-56.html this file from american B18C1 (GSR), basically same as our C4, but has knock sensor, which is disabled as per description.
If I can get a C4 map from UK I will be happy
I don't want to map it just yet, (quite expensive here ~300€) because I will when I upgrade my cams. Just don't have the funds at the moment. I might put some B16B or some other brand, higher compression pistons with cams and tune it then.
I just have some basic breather mods (ITR airbox pipe, EK VTI airbox with K&N, Skunk2 mani and a full 2.5" exhaust) I still need to make a traction bar to fit some other exhaust header. Now only the stock one fits.Car is 4gen EF Civic sedan.
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My ECU died the other day and now I need a stock B18C4 map to write on a P28. Does anyone have it, I would be using Crome.
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The engine goes in a 4.gen sedan, so about 250-300kg weight difference to an Aerodeck. I think I won't have problems with hills.
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I won't pay 50€ for 0.7kg difference. The guy who lightens them, said 5kg. I think it would make noticable difference.
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How much should I take off? I searched, but couldn't find a suitable answer.
OEM one is 7.7kg apparently, Fidanza's are 3.5kg, I wouldn't want to go that light, probably even not possible on an OEM flywheel.How much would you suggest? What weight is still safe for OEM fly?
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The R33 is portly compared to a 'Deck! lol
Dude, it's a R34! It's a GTT though
Only two Skylines in Slovenia -
Over the last couple of weeks did some more work on the car.
I needed to replace my radiator as it had a slight leak. I got it second hand (almost new) for 110€ with the slim fan.
Then I broke the CV joint and pulled the box off the car (I though it's the gearbox' fault for crunching). While I was at it I pulled the clutch and it was pretty bad. The metal around the springs was chipped off, so I ordered an Exedy OEM replacement unit and replaced that with couple other things:
I changed the halfshaft oil seal and the crank oil seal:
I also replaced the flywheel bearing as it was really f**ked up. Barely moving. Looks like it wasn't the sealed type which is bad.
And now some pics of the car, so you don't forget how crappy it is:
And another one with my 3rd car:
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Hey guys, don't have much time for the car as I am over the head with work, but I need a new radiator for my B18. Do I need the 28mm or the 32mm outlet piping?
Looking at this one with a push type fan, to get a little more room in my bay...
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Another pic from my friend. It was taken when we got home from a 600 mile drive to hungary and back, which was also my first test ride after all this work done here. I didn't even had a chance to drive up and down the driveway.
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Thanks
I need to get the rust sorted, this is my main concern. I don't know how to weld and I don't want to learn on the car And I can't paint it myself neither, so this can get a bit expensive...but I have to do it to apply wrap and to get my car through MOT in october...I need to get to the heater matrix to check this...will report. And bleed the system again for possible air bubbles... Thanks!
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I checked yesterday real quick, but there was no water on the floor, I need to check if there is anything to be seen on the pipes and around the joints and all. Is this a common problem on M's?
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Hey guys, not much progress in the last few days, working all the time at work and don't have much time for the car.
I just lifted the front for a bit(1cm) to prevent rubbing (much better now) and replaced the clutch fluid. I didn't take any pics but the fluid was all gooey at the bottom, it was really crazy. I took the fluid reservoir off the car and cleaned it, poured fresh oil and now it's OK
I have a problem I think... Sometimes it smells like antifreeze in the cabin. It doesn't look like it's really leaking in the inside or in the engine bay, but is this maybe a common problem or something? -
Of course we have speedbumps. I love them
It's actually not THAT bad, I mean the exhaust and the front tow hook scratches a bit, but is not as bad as with my 4.gen sedan, I was scratching everywhere (was probably even lower) Now my plans are:
- new mesh grille
- put the window visors on
- change gearbox oil
- sort the rust
- vinyl wrap (won't tell the color yet)
- level the coilovers, maybe lift the front a bit- replace the worn ball joint at the front
- try to stiffen the mounts
- reupholster the interior in black "fake suede"
- get a new shifter made (extended and a short shift) with a new gear knob
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Thanks guys, means a lot.
We went to Hungary on friday. The meeting point was at 1PM, I was still in the garagae at 12AM.
But I managed to do it! My first test drive was 1000km! All good, no smokes, no rattles, everything works as it should, engine feels strong, doesn't smoke or drink oil...and it has 290k km! I even raced with a Prelude H22 (185HP) and my car was faster! We started in 3rd gear around 80km/h to around 200km/h
So, here are some pics of the garage place and few of the car...
My friend's beemers
Big mess! I am not in the garage for a weekend and this is how it's like when I get back
And outside... I am actually trying to buy the whole place, but the price is too high
Oh, and few of the car:
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This is exactly what I said to him. I don't even get up from the bed for 5€
However, now I have to put the calipers on, bleed the brakes and finally put the superturismos with 195/45 tires on and go for a drive... Tomorrow, we go to Kiskunlachaza in Hungary. A little video from last year:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ursLhU569hk
The bearded motherfxxxer at 3:02 and 4:50 is me, and my car (Shuttle) is at 3:22
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So, a bit more progress.
I started the car after doing the oil, filter, oil pan gasket, thermostat and the spark plugs. Looks OK, no leaks, everything seems to work
I replaced the rubber brake hoses for my new shinny HEL braided brake lines, looks much better, just a bit of a PITA to route them.
Note that these are actually MeisterR's, but I have made some FK stickers to pass the inspection
Then I also cut off the rear arches, only what is on the inside to prevent rubbing.
Then I finally got the calipers and other stuff from powdercoaters, but I ended up with Cataphoresis
http://www.grupokataforesis.com/engl/procesos/procesos/ktl.htmlThis thing looks really good. Only black color though, but looks good and even. It reaches everything, because they are submerged in the "paint".
The best thing about cataphoresis is the price. It's cheap, like REALLY cheap. Almost free actually.
Everything you see in the picture was 5€. Yes, 5€! I was shocked, gave the guy 10€ in the end
He needed to make plugs for the front calipers, sadly, he couldn't plug the rear ones, so they were not done.Few close up pics:
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Well, you probably live in a city? Ljubljana (capital city of Slovenia) is so small I only have 10min drive and I am actually in a little village on a farm
OBD2a engine in a OBD1 car?
in Electrical
Posted
I figured out that the Immobilizer cuts starter AND fuel. So, if anyone will be doing this, convert the Immobilizer unit wiring and it will at least have starter signal. You obviously need the right key. (Key->Immo unit-> ECU ; they must all be from the same car (same code))