EmZvr
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Posts posted by EmZvr
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I wasn't really expecting to get in stock MB3 therritory in terms of fuel economy. But it seems vtec can be just as efficient as a vtec-e with the right mods and tune
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Recently I meassured my fuel consumption. I've never done that since I bought the car. The method was, fill the tank to the top, drive some distance and fill to the top again. It was a 200.7 kilometers (125 miles) trip which started with a traffic jam and my speed was ~100km/h (62mph). The car needed 9.95 litres (2.19 imperial gallons) of fuel.
Which means a fuel consumption of 4.96L/100km or 57 MPG. I'm more than happy with this result
I know you won't undestand the pic below but I'll post it as proof anyway 
I also installed front wind deflectors, made by Airvit. A brand I've never heard before but they sure do quality products. The installation is kinda scary because you have to bend the deflectors to a point you feel they'll brake in two but it doesn't require any tools nor double sided tape and fit very sequrely. They look very good and blend nicely with the exterior. Also there are no weird noises or etc. Overall I would give them 5/5. Althouth they're expensive, around 65 euros. But I paid 6 euro for them brand new, so no complains
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The part number is 16450-RWC-A01. If you decide to buy them be sure to use a reputable place because there are a lot of fake ones. They are not a straight fit. They need adapters for the fuel rail and conversion harness or clips. Something like this kit - http://www.xenocron.com/adapter-pack-obd1-honda-p-752.html?osCsid=im5hl311cl8pvargu7e3leiss4 but there are cheaper options.
Runing them with the stock ECU is big NO, NO. Here's a little quote:
oh and to give you an idea of what im talking about, starting my car on the factory ecu tune with 420cc injectors installed, my AFR is 9:1 at idle -
Yes, they will fit
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The stock injectors have a 20 year old design. They certainly do their job well but imho investing in new, more modern injectors with better spray pattern and atomization is always a plus. One of the good options in terms of price/performance are the Acura RDX injectors. I have even bought a set some time ago but they turned out to be fake. But I still have this upgrade in mind.
But of course like everyone said you need socketable CPU and a tune afterwards.
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Time for an yearly update
I bought a brand new oem steering rack, because my old one started leaking, for the bargain price of 65 pounds.
Other than that I'm struggling to fix my brakes. Here's how my 40 000km old EBC disc looked like (disaster):
So I decided it's time for big brakes upgrade. I bought 17cl15vn calipers from Prelude BB1. They were refurbrished with new pistons and bushings. Only thing I had to do fitting wise was to use 1mm spacers and job done. Also installed Mintex MDC1501 brake discs and Mintex MDB1543 pads.
Everything was great. After they broke in the stopping power is amazing. But.. they squeak(not very loud and not every time) and produce a lot of brake dust. Recently I had to do some fast slow downs from 170-180 kph and the brakes behaved perfectly. Pads were smoking, discs turned blue but still stopping power was amazing. Unfortunately the next day I had to drive the car I noticed that when I brake from 120kph+ my steering wheel is juddering. Which means I had bend the discs
And I really don't know what to buy now. All brake manufacturers suck.
Time for some happy news. You all know I had a vtec conversion. Liked it at first but then I realised the car is very slow out of vtec and I had a lot of problems with juddering and etc. Driving my car became a horrible experience. Luckily I found a new tuner which made a miracle. With the old tune when I removed the spark plugs and the lambda sensor all of them were snow white.. ther car was running lean as f... So first the tuner degreed my cam, it was out with 6 degrees which is a lot. Then my car was street mapped. And oh boy what a difference, I feel like I have swapped the engine. It makes power till 8k rpms. I'm in love. For now I'm dismissing the idea for a B18C4. Here's a little video (with 3 people on board !), sorry for the quality:
And some non car related news I finally managed to buy a new camera to replace my old 9+ year old one - a Nikon D3300 with 35mm 1.8f lense. I am still learning how to use it as that's my first DSLR. But anyway here are some photos:
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This is a very good choice. Those kind of intake hoses are great because they're smooth on the inside and made of silicon which has very good thermal insulation.
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I was in your shoes some time ago and I’ll share with you my experience. My first attempt to improve the sound was by installing two-way coaxial speakers in the front. They were Ground Zero GZIF 6503X. I just mounted them to the door and the result was horrible. Muffled sound and no mids/lows.
Then I sold them and bought only the midbasses very cheap from the component speakers Morel Tempo 6. And this time I used MDF plate to mount them. I also installed stock MB6 tweeters with them. But again I wasn't really satisfied. It looked something like this:
Then I did a small mod that is super cheap and is a BIG improvement - put isolation around the speaker like this.
And now I really like the result. I don’t have an amp or subwoofer and I dont have rear speakers. So don’t buy coaxial speakers. You want seperate midbass 6.5" and tweeters. They must be mounted on MDF plate and be sure to apply the mod above.
If you don’t want an amp pay attention to speakers sensitivity. Also check for reviews here: http://www.xn--80aeatqv1al.xn--p1ai/rubriki/components/akustika/komponentnaya-akustika-6-5 The site is russian but you can use google translate. You can look at how low the speakers can go (for example my morel's can go down to 62 hertz which is very good). This is important because you will not run a subwoofer. That's the only site I found with detailed reviews for speakers and helps a lot in taking a decision.
The next step is door isolation which I still haven't done but I feel it will be a great improvement.
For the rear if you're installing 4" speakers it really doesn't matter what you choose.
p.s. I started writing this post at 16.04 and only now I managed to complete it
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Anyone with experience about the rear calipers & carriers? Will the MG ZS/ZR one fit and will the handbrake cable attach without a problem?
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You are right. In the Valeo catalogue they state it is compatible with D15Z8 and that it is 220mm, 24 teeth. This is very strange. But you got me intriguied, I'll write to Valeo and ask them about this. I'm curious to see what will they answer.
I really should visit Romania. Looks like a beautfiul country and it's just too close not to.
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It has only one clutch type. In fact all almost all d-series use the same clutch type. Yes, my clutch is Exedy, more specifically - 08022, it's the japaneese one and I bought it from USA.
http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08022-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DCO4You can order it from amazon too. Delivery is not so expensive and you don't have to pay taxes, customs and etc. You recieve it on your post service.
The european alternative is Exedy HCK2049 which will be easier for you to find.
I haven't heard of Nexus clutches. They seem too cheap to be good.
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Hiya neighbour. You need a 212mm (Some manufacturers round it to 210mm, it doesn't matter) and 20 teeth. Here's the info from the box of the clutch I used on my MB3
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..but believe it may have slowly happened over time.
To me this sounds like wear of the reflective coating on the headlights. But to find out for sure you have to open a headlight or borrow one from someone. So first try the things proposed above.
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Anyone have any real evidence that it helps? When I researched this mod years ago I did not find any. Also this stopped me: http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html
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Today I bought Prelude BB1 calipers. I think they are the same as MB6 but I'm not sure. They use the same pads as MB6 but the discs are 23mm thickness and total height is 47mm. I still don't have mg zs brake discs to try them on. But I plan to grind the calipers lip before that just to be ready when the discs arrive. So @Chandler can you draw a circle on the picture where the lip is at?
Without the discs to try them on I'm not sure where it is. Or maybe I should wait because of the different calipers that I got.
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Here's an interesting read on the subject: http://honda-tech.com/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/can-gsr-manifold-out-perform-performer-x-2808750/
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Take a look at SuperFlex - http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF324-0266K Poly bushes on the rear arb should be a worthy upgrade.
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What about a d16w4 125hp or am I just crazy!.
As far as camshaft goes (and in fact almost everything) D16Z6 = D16Y2 and D16W4 = D16Y8. So yes, that will work too. But keep in mind (again talking about the camshafts only): D16Y8/W4 < D16Z6/Y2 < D15B
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i did my front ones!! MGZS 2.5 discs as they are 4x100, then you need MB6 calipers and carriers, there is a lip on the inside of the carrier that bolts to the hub, you need to grind that lip down then its a straight swap for the front
I'll be going the same road. Just to clarify, with this setup I'll need MB6 pads too, right?
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what front caster have you got atm ?
been thinking about swapping my front top arms over, as the MG have done this on the OE Mgzs180 <with different part number>
got front Buddy club in atm adjustable camber only, may even swap them over first,just working outside sucks in the rain and cold
its on the lists
Don't swap front top arms. Maybe they did my alignment wrong (I told them to align it as a MG ZS) but I know after the swap the car was horrible to drive. Changed them back immediately.
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Your head is already the same as D16Y8, it just has a vtec-e camshaft. So the best price/performance option is to install D16Z6/Y8/D15B camshaft and roller rockers in your head. D16Z6 is a better flowing head but as said above it will lower compression to 9.2:1 and to notice the difference you should couple it with an aftermarket camshaft like 59300 / 105300 for example which is a whole different project.D15Z8 with Z6 head is kinda like D15B but D15B has a unique more agressive camshaft.
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Just get a mg zs rear arb and that'll keep you happy for a long while
Installing poly bushes to an arb simulates the effect of a stiffer bar. -
You can not use halogen bulbs in a HID projector. But you can use a halogen projector. For example this Hella bi-halogen is a nice one:
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-009998021-Bi-Halogen-Headlamp-Module/dp/B0030YWKYW
Or you can use OEM halogen projectors for a retrofit. For example some Mercedess E55 have bi-halogen projectors with good pattern.
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Nope. It's the same engine as yours - 127hp vtec but the japaneese version. It can be found in:
del Sol 1996-the end
Civic 1996-1998
Civic Coupe 1996-1998
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MGZS brake upgrade question
in Brakes and alloys
Posted
Small update on this. MB6/MC2 rear calipers do not fit MB3. The bolt pattern is different. Why you did this, Honda
Now I don't have an idea how to mount them. I heard something about MG ZR 160 rear trailing arms but this sounds very strange.. I thought MG ZR and ZS have identical rear traling arms/calipers and etc.
Mystery solved: MG ZS and MB6 use the same calipers but different carriers.So in order to fit the rear MB6 calipers I need MG ZS 180 carriers.