EmZvr
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Posts posted by EmZvr
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I already have an ITR steering wheel. But it's the normal version, not the Momo one. I didn't know it was smaller than the stock wheel. Or is it only the Momo version that is smaller?
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Okay, I'm scratching this out of my mods wishlist. Just wanted to hear your thoughts. The idea was a faster rack.
Smaller steering wheel sounds nice but I want my airbag.
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I really wanted one but after I researched a bit I'm not so sure any more.. But my steering rack started leaking recently and I need your advice. A little comparison:
Civic MB3Overall ratio 17.1Lock-to-lock 3.48Civic MB6Overall ratio 17.5Lock-to-lock 3.23MG ZSOverall ratio 16.4 (not verified number)Lock-to-lock 2.5I don't know how to interpret "overall ratio" but the lock-to-lock is a problem. According to MG ZS owners it has a horrible turning radius. A guy in the mg-rover forum even said it is more difficult to maneuver than a bus
If I understand correctly MG limited the front wheels movement because it has big wheels and otherwise the wheels would rub. So the rack is faster but at full lock my wheels will be less turned than my current steering rack.What are your thoughts on this ? -
Actually the Supersprint header looks very good, still very expensive but if you have the money why not. They deffinitely put some thought in it.The SRS looks like every generic 4-2-1 manifold except it's one piece. Mine is the same design but I paid only 150 euros. Seems overpriced for what it offers.
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That's a lot of money. I doubt there will be enough difference to justify that price. Generic aftermarket 4-2-1 headers work quite well and are certainly better than stock manifolds. Do you have a picture of the Supersprint header ? Does it have a different design ?I have a Twister header which I like because it's one piece. But don't know where you could get one.
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Yes I know their sidewalls are soft but does this result in better ride comfort ? My change of tires will probably be after a year, so RE003 should be out by then.
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Another Rainsport 2 user here
For my next tires I'll be choosing between Rainsport 3 and Adrenalin RE003. I love Rainsports but I don't like the soft sidewalls they have. Then again we have very bad roads here and 195/50 is kinda low profile so it might be an advantage. I want to ask all Rainsport users, how is the comfort comparing them to tires with stiffer sidewalls ? -
You can read here the difference between LHD and RHD headlights: http://civic5.com/forum/topic/9469-headlight-problem-mot/
My advice is don't waste money for LHD headlights, install LHD projectors inside your current headlights and you're done. It's easy to do and you'll start to see in the night ! Plus it looks better. You can install cheap chinese projectors, everything is better than the stock headlight
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I did see that and thought of adjusting it. However I remember back on the old Rover 214's that it was suggested never to adjust that as it was set from factory and it would upset the ecu as it will try to counter-act your adjustments?
You have to make the ECU to learn the new settings. The procedure is in the service manual and should fix your problem. Take a look here: http://civic5.com/forum/topic/9592-mc1-with-a-few-niggles/?p=238636
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I would do the following:
- Check the condition of the battery (should be free at any car battery shop)
- Perform a parasitic draw test using a multimeter
- Send the injectors to a suitable shop to be cleaned, balanced and calibrated
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I had to modify my distributor holes on my D15Z8 but to reach 16 degrees. 12 degrees BTDC shouldn't be a problem at all.
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D15Z8 / D16Y8 dizzy, it shouldn't matter which one you use. It is normal to not be able to reach 16 degrees BTDC. For your engine you need 12 degrees BTDC and you should be able to get them without a problem.
@noodels, I've read this in the manual but have you got an idea how exactly bridging the service plug helps or what it does ? My car was timed without bridging the plug and everything is fine.
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Someone should put the DRLs in the gaps in the front of the VTi-S lips
I'm starting to think I'm the only one who doesn't like how they would look in the vti-s lip
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Pull out the interior that'll save weight
Yes, along with PS and AC but I'm not willing to loose comfort. I'm just doing simple stuff that won't affect comfort. I know I won't feel the difference but it will keep me busy.
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I recently decided to do some small weight reduction becuase every gram matters. Switched my rubber mats for my fabric mats (rubber ones are very heavy). Installed new lightweight OEM wheel nuts. Old vs new
Changed my heaunit for Kenwood KMM-361SD, it's a mechless unit with shorter body that weights only 540 grams and has everything I need. Keeping my music in a SD card istead of CDs is a big relief. I really love it. And sounds better than my previous Pioneer DEH-P6700MP.
Added a small accessory to the boot that I really like, looks oem and keeps the boot tidy. It's attached with velcro and doesn't move at all. Keeps my oil and fire extinguisher.
Weighted my car and it was 1140kg with ~20 liters gasoline. Not a bad result I think. Future plan is:- remove rear wiper motor (wiper arm and arm are long gone)- switch spare tire to space saver- remove rear speakers (I always turn them off from the headunit anyway)- install passanger rail to driver seat (Inclining function is heavy and I would never use it. I'm 192cm tall)- change the backbox for something light- maybe look for a lighter battery to use only in summer, any suggestions ?With some mods I added weight but nothing I can do about that.p.s. Has somebody weighted a stock wing mirror ? I'm curious to know how much I saved with rover mirrors. They have a plastic base instead of metal.
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You can use any D-series sohc gearbox. 1.6vtec gearbox will fit 1.5vtec-e. Changing the gearbox won't affect the speedometer accuracy.
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You want short 1-4 ratios for good acceleration and to be able to drive in the city in 4th gear and long 5th gear for highway.
Best: Hybrid transmission with 3th and 4th gear from D16A8/D16Z5, 0.702 5th and 4.437 final drive
Second best: D13B2 facelift gearbox
Third best: D16Z6 / D16Y8 / D15B2
Every stock D-series transmission is a compromise.
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That was fast. It seems you're better at searching than me
I'm glad I was able to help. -
Like Phill said look for vtec solenoid
Thins thing:
Just in case here are the engine numbers:
non-VTEC: D16Y3, D16B2, D16W3
VTEC: D16Y2, D16W4
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Yes, the bulb comes out. It is a S14V 1.4w bulb. Do a google search for it, there are some threads but I couldn't find a specific answer to where it could be bought :/
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Or you could mod the spindle. One possible way to do it - http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2793705&postcount=34
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From google:
"Question: Is the GSR LMA different (functionally) than the ITR LMA?Answer: NO. Just different part numbers.I just got finished do some testing on a spring tester.Pressure: 56lbs ITR v. 54lbs GSR(slightly used but sold as new).Lift Capacity: Exactly the same.Pad Diameter: 7mm on both LMA nipples.The only difference: Blue painted dot on ITR LMA."This is for GSR, but I think it should be the same for B18C4. IMHO they are both not very good. Skunk2 LMA's are better design
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Don't worry, your fuel mileage could actually improve or remain the same
Higher revs doesn't always mean worse fuel economy. Please let me know when you find out. -
That now looks like it's revs are where they should have been from the factory!
Couldn't agree more, the best upgrade for d-series is the gearbox. I am interested to know how does your fuel economy compares to the old setup, Mae
MB4 Inlet Manifold
in Engine & Chassis
Posted
You need D16Y8 intake manifold. It's the same as yours but metal so it will be plug and play. D15Z6/D15Z8 also works but you need to block the EGR. Also D16Z6/D16Y3/D16Y2/D16Z9 will work but will need some modifications of the coolant lines and you'll need their throttle cable.
Adam's manifold is a very bad design, don't even think about it.
Plastic intake manifolds have benefits too - less weight, smoother walls and they are heat isolated so no heatsoak