EmZvr
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Posts posted by EmZvr
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According to this viewtopic.php?f=60&t=34 , it's RR
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I was trying to find out before, which is the best stock intake manifold but there are conflicting views in the internet. And now thanks to google translate I found someone who has tried all of those intakes and send him a PM. So here it is:
Hi,
Yes, I've testet all three of them.
It is said that intake from D16y8 is the best for D-series engines.
In my car that was not thruth.
At first I've tested the D15z6 because it's the same as D16y8 (which is a little more expensive and rare in poland) and my feelings were that in low rpm the car was faster. That was because it had more air in bigger manifold tube, after throttle body. But in mid, and high rpms it was like a mule in comparison with stock D16Z6 manifold. Because then I wasn't completely sure that D15z6 and D16y8 were the same sizes inside I've tested the D16y8 as the second one. It was better, but still worse than stock d16z6 manifold. The car had some kind of lag, and slower response for hitting the acceleration pedal.
At the end I oversized the inlet of stock D16Z6 intake manifold and I put a throttle body from B16A2 on it (if I rememer it well, it's 60mm against stock 56mm - something like that).
And that's it. The response is quick. And in mid and high rpm's the old good d16z6 is really crazy. Most B16, and some B18 couldn't manage it on 1/4. The stock ones of course.
You can find some mine old vids on youtube (user 222majkel) to see how it goes from inside of the car.
To be completely honest I didn't tried to oversize the D15z6 or D16y8 intake manifolds. But the slower throttle response decided that I didn't wanted to. I think that in small D-series the fast response from low rpms is the most important thing. In that case the D16z6 intake manifold was always the best for me.
All credits go to majkel
I can say Poland forums are full of information, too bad Google translate is so bad with them
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Tom it's for you
Your best bet is to go for MG ZS 180 v6 springs & shocks. Handling will be massively improved and the combo is cheap around 100 pounds. Look at the Suspension section of the forum. For example this thread: viewtopic.php?f=56&t=9957
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Well with only exhaust system you can't expect big gains. The stock exhaust manifold is killing all the performarmance but now with the 4-2-1 you should see gains. Increasing hp is hard and 14hp is a big figure.
Also I would change that filter for CAI. It's heatsoaking badly if that's still your setup.
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Looks good, nice job. With the rear lip it will look complete
You have drums on the back I thought only some MA & MB2 have them
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Mines on 92k miles now.
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According to the manual:
NGK BKR6E-N-11 / BKR7E-N-11
DENSO K20PR-L11 / K22PR-L11
You won't make a bad choise whichever you choose.
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Look @ Hermsen's thread viewtopic.php?f=12&t=10000
He has rear DC2 dampers and DC2 LCA's.
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The important thing is how the header is designed and made so 4-1 for top end is stories I don't belive Also isn't 1.4 stock with 4-1 exhaust manifold ? Finding one that really is difficult. That's 4-1 but you won't like the price http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?mai ... 1bden08fn5
btw I'm sure this thing will be better than any 4-2-1 not just at the top end but in every rpm
This is a list with brands that made 4-1 for D seires you might find it helpfull: http://mycomputerninja.com/~jon/hondain ... index.html
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Looks like new, the cleanest MB I've seen !
Do you mind telling me what camera is used for those lovely photos ?
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Dave, I have a motivational video for you This is MB3 with exhaust system, 4-2-1 manifold, K&N and the most important short gear box. Look at it fly
IoS4lAC0K3k
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Made in Japan, hmm is that a M ? Nah can't be
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When I changed the antifreeze we waited the fan to go on to fill in more and it was a long wait and it was a sunny day So I say it's normal
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Due to my bad english it will be difficult to explain but you can insert the D16y8 camshaft D16y8 "bridge". It's better than just changing the head If you just swap the head you will lower the compression and the effect will be lower. I'm really interested to see the result of the mini-me please share some results after the build is ready.
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If turbo is out of your budget, then mini-me is the way to go. Everything else will lead in just a small increase in power. Go here and click -Adding VTEC to a D14 http://www.dodo-upgrades.nl/ That's a very usefull site
Everybody say the same thing to me, to make a swap and I see they are right But there is nothing bad to try and squeze more power of a d series
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You can change the intake manifold for a D16Z6/D16Y8 because yours is plastic (if the internet pictures are correct), I'm not sure there will be gains but there should be at least small one.
Next on the list Cold air intake.
If you want bigger TB you need to port the intake manifold to match the new 60mm TB (you need one from B series) and port the holes that lead to the head (stupid explanation ). But if you just add bigger TB without porting the manifold it will be bad for performance.
Next transmission with shorter gears/final drive (I don't have single idea what's your transmission, no information on the internet). You should aim for 4,4 final drive and gears from CRX or the easiest option gearbox from D16Y8.
Next 4-2-1 header it should say that is for D series.
And finally mini-me which means adding vtec but this is expensive and you need chipable CPU, adjustable cam gear and D16Y8/Z6 head.
If I was in your shoes I would consider swaping the engine, it's just a 1.4
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I heard it's bad for the transmission so thats what stoped me from doing this mod but is it true ?
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Would oil quality contribute? Fired in some crap we use at work, cant remember name but its stil 10-40. Isnt great stuff tho cost me 10 quid for 5 litres lol
Good question i always put the good stuff in,, so can't answer that one,
My first oil was Esso 10W40 which is a cheap brand. At ~5k I had to pour from min to max and then at ~8k again from min to max.
Then I used Castrol Magnatec 10W40 and for 1 year and 2 months I didn't have to fill any oil. Before the change it was a little less then the middle. So it matters what oil you use.
Now I am with Magnatec again with Hamp filter and I don't think I will be using different oil.
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Yes the code is 20 - two long flashes. Make a google search there are a lot of helpful topics like this one: http://hondaswap.com/ecus-electronics-t ... tor-25793/
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There's a really cheap muffler selling but it's from a Concerto. Will it fit my MB without any modifications ?
p.s. Which is correct muffler or backbox
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Which one is pin 3 and pin 5? Does the engine light flash or abs light?
Everything is explained here perfectly viewtopic.php?f=88&t=34&p=7728&hilit=abs+codes#p7728
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Ah I though you bought a proper one With NTK you should have no problems
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not realy a performance booster more of a de~tox
Oh I wish that your mojo (can I use that word I like how it sounds ) stuff worked on me too. I first changed the fuel filter and was excited that will feel a increase in power. Got in the car nothing, then adjusted the valve clearence - again nothing. Changed spark plugs and air filter - nothing.
Well previous owner whereever you are I hate you for leaving me with that perfectly serviced car
Hi,Thank you very much. Code that comes up is 41.
Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction
Does that mean lambda sensor is shot! And its only a few months old. Grrrr
Let me share my story. After installing my 4-2-1 header I got a CEL. Ran a check and don't remember the number but it was oxygen sensor. Seemed realistic because the sensor has to deal with way more air. Drove with the cel for a month it was popping on every trip. I was ready to purchase a new one but I went to the Honda service to change the antifreeze. They did that and drove the car outside but after a while they returned the car to the service (I think he saw the CEL). After 5 minutes the car was ready they didn't tell me anything about the CEL and I forgot to ask. After thaat several months have passed I have no CEL and I even think my MPG increased. I don't know what they did but I'm sure I didn't recieved a free new oxygen sensor So my point is that this CELs are not very good for diagnostic
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lol dont these newbies ever read the for sale rules
I think this one did otherwise he wouldn't post his sale topic in every section on the forum
Understeer!!
in Chassis
Posted
What about a MG ZS 180 rear arb, stiffer rear arb is supposed to reduce understeer.