matrix1

Not sure where your'e based but I bought the tool from Ebay and did mine at home. Your'e welcome to borrow it if you wanted to do it yourself. Took me a SAT afternoon to do it.

Problem solved! Took the car to Dynodaze, and after checking the suspension, driveshafts and all the other suspension bits and finding no fault moved on to other things. Discoverd it was the exhaust knocking on the body. Looks like when MIJ exhausts had fitted the system, they didn't centralise the exhaust, and over time the exhaust hangar rubbers have given a bit and therefore allowed the exhaust to knock against the body. Happy that it's sorted, annoyed that I spent £70 to replace the left wheel bearing and then £300 to replace the drive shafts and intermediate shafts when all it needed was to break the hangar weld, centralize and reweld. Anyway, as always thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Everything is attached and torqued to the correct specification as per the manual. All the adjuster rings are tight. What I don't get is that everything was fine for approx 3 mths after the Meister's were fitted.And why no noise if I drive around 50mph but once it starts at higher speeds it will happen at the lower speeds. So this has to be suspension related. A garage I went to yesterday thought the wheels might be out of balance, so having that checked out tomorrow. The idea was to start working on the engine but....Keep the ideas coming. All help much appreciated.

Thanks for all your replies. @Kink. I still have the original wheels and are tightened to 110 NM. Drive shafts are brand new. @Noodles. is this possible on a car which has only done 42K miles. Please could you guide us on how to test the LSD. I take it crown wheel & pinion are part of the LSD? Is it possible to change the LSD yourself? Cost? @Simpo. No oil leaks. Or are you saying check level of oil? Once again, thanks for all your replies. Could anybody recommend a garage around the Midlands if I can't resolve?

Desperately need help with this. The symptoms are as follows: I can drive around 50 and below all day and no noise but once I have taken it down the dual carriageway for a good 5 min at higher speed, the knocking starts.Even at the lower speeds. Very loud, worse when going clockwise around a roundabout. I have Meister R's fitted and am only on the min drop. I have changed the left wheel bearing ( Koyo ) Changed the drive shafts - both sides including intermediate shaft ( Yonaka Motorsport ). Can't see any leaks, bushes seem ok although there's some cracking on the very bottom bushing on the droplink. Obviously getting very annoyed as I have know spent over £1K on the suspension. Taken to various garages but they can't diagnose it. Any ideas

Just to let you know that I bought the tool from Ebay used for £65. I took a risk as it was being advertised for the CRV. Couldn't find anything for the Civic. Have used it, and works fine. Replaced both of my bushes and took the car for an alighnment. It was only out by half, whatever that means.They thought it wasn't worth adjusting. I'm based in the Redditch area if anybody would like to borrow the tool.

Ok guys, just wanted to confirm that the Skunk 2 EG Lca's definitely fit. I have the Meister R suspension, so just took out the spacers & the forks went on, no issues. Biggest problem I had was undoing the lca to rta bolt. After struggling with the 13mm 12 point socket was just spinning. Read about the 6 point sockets that are available and bought a set, it just came off no problem. Second problem is realigning the same bolt. A quick update ref the above. I found it easier to align every thing if I fitted the lca to the trailing arm first. Secondly, and not sure about other brands, but if you buy Skunk 2 and you have the mg arb & links, you will need a bolt which has a 1.25 thread to connect to the lca. Any questions, please let me know.

Apologies for hijacking thread. Similar problem, I have bought the Skunk 2 Lower control arm for my MB6 ( these are for the EG/Integra, so should fit? ). I have the Meister R coilovers,and therefore the forks can be adjusted to 50mm by taking out the spacers. I have measured the distance between the mounting points on the Skunk 2, and this is different to the factory fitted ones. I s this normal? Will they fit? Has anybody fitted theses? All help much appreciated.

Are all the trailing arm bushes the same on al the MB's?

Come on guys. Someone must be able to advise - ref where to put the axle stands.

Wise, possibly. Rich, not anymore!!! Anyway, got them for £674, should be here tomorrow. Hoping to post pics once completed. Hmmm, might do a how to. Is it possible to post videos on here? First hurdle, getting the car up high enough. Tested the trolley jack I have, won't raise the car high enough to get the axle stands underneath the side jacking points front or rear. Any alternatives please guys? Would it be ok to place the stands underneath where the anti roll bars F & R attach to the chasis?

Thankyou for all your replies. Having taken into consideration all the different variations and possibly issues with different setups, I have taken the easy option. Have ordered Meister r's. Thinking of doing/ fitting these myself, so any tips will be much appreciated.

Thankyou for all your replies. Having taken into consideration all the different variations and possibly issues with different setups, I have taken the easy option. Have ordered Meister r's. Thinking of doing/ fitting these myself, so any tips will be much appreciated.

Thanks mate. So if I understand correctly, buy just the MG dampers and then fit the MB springs? Has anyone got this particular set up and how does it run? What drops are expected from this combo and how does the car feel? Ideally would like to have had the Meister R's but funding, so....

For those of you who have fitted the MGZS shocks, please can you advise whether the below would be ok? My understanding is that there were some sort of ride hight issues dependant on spring & damper markings? Will the below combination work? These are the complete assembly includingsprings. All help would be much appreciated, as my factory fitted ones are now amost 'dead' - leaking, horrible noises etc etc. The following is an extract from the conversation I've had with the ebay seller. The part numbers are from the Rimmer Bros site.. Hello, if you where buying shockabsorber on there own these numbers are correct, springs on front are blue white , and rears are blue white dot, these are genuine from factory and were production line units manufactured by Delphi bwi. Thanks Ron. - best_of_british_rover Dear best_of_british_rover, Front LH: RNB000370 Front RH: RNB000330 Rears LH & RH: RPD 000280 If you could confirm these part numbers on the dampers, I would be grateful. Regards

Thanks civicturbo 79. It was air. Just topped up twice more and now its settled. Should have realised really, as total amount drained and total filled initially was different. On a different subject, is there a how to on fitting coilovers? Couldn't see one in the suspension section?

Could it be the water pump? as there were no issues before I did the coolant change. Passenger floor well dry.

Need help! Loosing coolant somewhere. A few weeks ago I did a coolant change, ( purely because it hadn't been done since I bought the car). Have used Honda coolant. Can't see any leaks, engine isn't overheating -possibly because I'm not letting the overflow resevoir fully empty?, so what could it be?There were no issues before I did the change - fluid stayed at max level. Any suggestions.

Hi Guys. Just going off slightly on a tangent, but can anyone recommend somebody/garage in the Birmingham area that would setup the suspension correctly once I've fitted the Meister R's. I'm also thinking of changing the lower control arm ( Skunk2 black series ) at the same time. Any suggestions, recommendations highly appreciated.

I bought mine last week direct from Hel. Paid £70. Things to note: 1.As per Weaver above, ring the contact above to order the correct lenghts. 2.You will have to use one of the original fittings for the front ones. 3. The fitting is very easy. The bleeding not so. Have used 2 litres so far and have ordered another litre. Initially my pedal was hitting the bottom. Much better now after following the advice above, but still not perfect. Will be taking it to the garage to be done. Cost £50.

Have now carried out the above procedure twice. No air bubbles from the front at all. Rears, everytime I bleed. Is this normal? Pedal not hitting the floor anymore. Is it ok to just carry on bleeding the back?

Thanks Weetec. At no point did the fluid run out. The reservoir was kept topped up. So should the bleeding sequence be RH Rear, LH Front, LH Rear & then RH Front? I don't have a compressor , so therefore I could't use the bottle recommended. I'm just using a one man bleed kit.

Thanks Tom. It is just air then? Is sequence important or doesn't that matter? I've got 750ml fluid left, do you think that will be sufficient? Come on people, somebody must have had the same issue. Any pointers or information will be much appreciated.

In desparate need of HELP. I've fitted the HEL brake lines all around and now my brake pedal goes all the way down. Bled all the brakes. Please can somebody advise what the issue is and how to resolve it. Is it just air? Surely that's all it can be as there were no prior issues?

Thanks. Now sorted Next thing: shocks ( as they are leaking ) and blowing exhaust.