GreenVTi991
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Posts posted by GreenVTi991
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Hi everybody,
Just a few questions on bulbs:
Has anyone tried LED headlight bulbs?
Can you get double wattage LED brake bulbs?
I've read on Halfords website that the LED brake bulbs they sell aren't for road use. Can't understand why as the majority of modern cars have LED rear lights
Daytime running lights: Has anyone fitted these? I drive with my headlights on all the time but have been thinking about fitting these instead wired off the sidelight circuit
And lastly an oddity: My Civic only has a rear foglight on the offside. The nearside cluster is blanked off. Why?
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Ok so if I get a full laser alignment check done and they find the camber is out beyond adjustment, I should buy this kit?
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Hi chaps I'm looking to improve the handling & steering feel on my MB6 running MGZS suspension. Will fitting lower tie bars front and rear make a difference?
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What's the benefit of fitting this kit? I'm running MG ZS suspension & am looking into improving the handling further
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No not bled clutch yet. The fluid does look a little dirty so am gona rope one of my mates in to help me bleed it at the weekend as I'm going to do an engine oil service anyway.
I found the bolt which adjusts the pedal and it's much nicer to use. I left a little slack in it though.
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No not bled clutch yet. The fluid does look a little dirty so am gona rope one of my mates in to help me bleed it at the weekend as I'm going to do an engine oil service anyway.
I found the bolt which adjusts the pedal and it's much nicer to use. I left a little slack in it though.
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Hi chaps,
I had my clutch replaced last week & have bedded it in with about 500 miles of driving. The biting point is still at the top of the pedal (as it was before clutch replaced) but is a lot easier & smoother to use.
Should it be biting at the top or mid-travel?
Is there any adjustments I can do?
Also, there's a bit of slack on the pedal itself & remember reading on here you can tighten it up again but for the life of me cannot find the thread!
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Did this ARB fix to my car the other night & glad I did as the drop link on the nearside was def not sitting at 90degrees! The rear ride does seem slightly more pliable now & I feel safe in the knowledge that my ARB L brackets aren't going to tear the floor apart.
I checked my front ARB (MGZS one) & its sitting very close to the wishbones. I've got some spare rubber bushes so am going to space it up a bit to see if it makes a difference
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Thanks weetec,
I replaced the pipe as it had collapsed. It now has heavy duty fuel pipe in its place which won't collapse!
Went for a drive to see if made any difference and I reckon its now smoother, more responsive & maybe even a bit quicker!
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Mounted next to oil filter with a feed to the inlet. What is it as the feed to the inlet has collapsed?
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Other washing powders are available!
But yes, I used washing powder!
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Nope! Guess again...
you're on the right trail with household cleaning products though...
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Ok so I've found a really effective wheel cleaner...
It's cheap and you can buy alot of it. Can any of you guess what it is?!
Before: Not been cleaned for a few months
During: All the dirt is just running off. No nasty acidic formula eating away at the surface
After: Squeaky clean
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Ok so the smell came back pretty bad on my way home from work. Decided to have a samba good sniff (peeled nostrils working a treat) and discovered the smell was strongest at the back of the engine on the right hand side - furthest from the clutch. Can't be that then...
So then I looked under the car and found what looks like ice cream splattered on the floorpan and exhaust
Please feel free to pm me if you'd like to come round my house and slap my peeled nostrils into next week!
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LOL no there's no bakery at the top of the hill!
I only really notice it after that hill because it does put a bit of strain on the engine / transmission.
I'm going to keep my nostrils peeled to see if I notice it at any other time.
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A few times now I’ve smelt a burning sugary kind of smell coming from my car – a couple of times after going up a long hill on my way to work. Could it be clutch related? If not, what could it be..?
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No its the same thickness as standard one
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Here's an expertly drawn diagram of the difference!
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Ok I shall take some pics of it fitted. Once again I didn't even think about taking some while swapping it over! You would've easily seen the difference between the two if I'd taken a pic of them laying side by side
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Even if the speed limit is increased to 80, doesnt mean you have to go 80!
My MB6 definitely doesnt sound like vtec engages if you cruise past 80mph / 4500rpm. If I put my foot down, then vtec kicks in.
What would make more difference to MPG is a taller 5th or a 6th gear for cruising! I use my car on the motorway midweek and a 6th gear would be lovely!
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I fitted the MG front ARB yesterday as one of the original drop links popped apart. It was a straight swap and the drop links are a solid metal bar with four rubber bushes.
I definitely believe my car is turning in sharper and isn't rolling on the front.
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What about fitting MG ZS 120 springs and shocks? Iirc they're still lower and stiffer than Honda but not as stiff as ZS 180s?
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I've recently changed the rear ARB on my car and you must get the rear brackets off the MG which the ARB mounts to.
As for the front ARB, the MG one looks the same thickness as the Civic but the drop links are a different design, imo they look a to be a better more sturdy design.
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I hear you noodels pics will be taken once I've cleaned my car as it is filthy! Unfortunately I didn't take any during pics
Black oblong mounted on back of engine
in Engine & Chassis
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Ressurecting this thread as whilst giving the engine bay a general check-over I've noticed oil leaking out of this oblong box around the red plastic pipe connector.
Could it be blocked? If so, can it be taken off & cleaned?