Captho

Hi, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this problem... I get a clunk when setting off or stopping from low speed. The CV joints are quiet at full lock and straight, no noticeable noises from suspension and car drives very well for its age! I've managed to recreate the noise by sticking it in gear and rocking the car back and forward, noise isn't there when out of gear. Jacked each side up and found I can turn each wheel back and forth while in gear a good few inches before it stops. Possible backlash in the gearbox? Was hoping someone else could see if there's does the same? Cheers.

That looks great! Is that a full/professional refurb or just the outers? Gonna refurb my summer set soon and been quoted 45 a wheel... not too bad I think but in two minds whether to just tart them up myself!

Future-proofed! You haven't adjusted your hand brake properly. Wind the centre console screw OUT fully, so that the hand brake doesn't work at all (releasing the tension built up on the springs on the rear calipers - the cables should be slack at the caliper ends, and the spring mechanisms should have returned all the way to their end stops). Then turn ON the engine to start the power assisted braking. Then pump the foot brake about 20 times to push out the caliper pistons on to the discs fully (this winds them out to their maximum possible extent with the pads you have in there). Then, stop your engine again, and pull the hand brake up ONE click, and ONE click ONLY. THEN wind the centre console screw IN, until both rear discs only just start dragging on the brake pads a bit, but consistently. Then that's it. If your calipers are working fine, and the auto-tensioner spring mechanisms are not corroded or jammed (make sure the springs on the rear calipers are nicely lubed up and free moving), then you should be able to pull up on your hand brake and be fully locked on a hill at somewhere between 6 and 10 clicks (to pass an MOT). Obviously, to do all this readjustment, you should have the back of the car up off the ground on axle stands. Good luck.

2nd post from last in this link has some great info. Worked a treat for me. - http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/41-braking/32835-mb6-1-8vti-aerodeck-handbrake-problem.html

Hi. I was wondering if you've driven the car yet and how you found the handling experience compared to standard? cheers.

If I remember correctly, all rear shocks/springs are the same on all zs models, only the fronts are different. CW were sending out pre 2004 zs180 or 45 diesel shocks which had an orange and white stripe on the springs. The extra weight of these engines could have caused the front to be higher in an mb6? The facelifted zs180, 2004 on, had suspension setup made by Eibach and these springs had blue and white stripe on them, I believe that this is the setup people prefer in the MB6.

I'm looking into HID's now, hopefully get some soon so I can actually see on unlit roads but it's interesting to see the difference in colour between the fogs and headlamps. Nice looking MB4 you have.

Citroen Xsara washers work well.

That is looking sparkling BTW! What headlamp bulbs have you in... They look quite white/blue?

To save damaging the wire elements, I've found it best to clean side to side, across the window, with gentle pressure.

Thanks for the info Wilkesy. Sorry to jack the thread there Carl... What parts have you ordered? Suspension looks lowered already if you're getting ZS shocks?

Hi, nice VTI-S you've got there! Was wondering if the Xsara jets are straight swap? Need a set for my MB6 and can get them for £11 on Ebay or £25 for Jazz jets! Cheers.

It's been good so far. Before, I could physically see a damp patch on the roof lining corner when it rained heavy but not seen it since. My windows would fog up very easily too and this problem has eased a lot so all in all I reckon its sorted! Aslong as the area is clean and you use good quality sealant I cant see there being a problem doing this bodge.

Never in normal driving conditions in this car but don't drive stupidly fast as I want it to last. Felt it a lot recently with snow and ice but the light never came on when it was operating, not sure it does as the lamp comes on with ignition as normal. You hear the pump kick in too as it's a hydraulic ABS system (I think!). Gotta say though that the weight of the B18 up front gives plenty of good grip going up inclines in snow. I've had to get out and push cars in front that were just spinning wheels then back into the Civic and it just goes, summer tyres and all! Had it come on once in my old MB6 in the dry but that was just before a heavy impact from around 50mph and my foot was just about through the floor. Needless to say I never drove that car again!

PS. I only sealed around the top corner (intersection) of the two strips, not the full length.

A bodge that has worked for me since earlier in the year. - - Remove the roof strip and windscreen down strip, or just gently pry away until you have access to the bare painted metal. - Clean thoroughly with a solvent, not too much as it may strip the paint (use cotton buds and brake cleaner or degreaser). Clean both the strips and the paint and gently rough the area to give a key (this isn't vital). - Apply some good quality clear or black exterior window sealant once everything is dry. Refit the seals while sealant is still wet. - Apply some more sealant into any spaces, etc and put some heavy duty tape tightly over the area (i used parcel tape). - After 12-24 hours, remove tape carefully (pull against tape) and the area should be sealed. Not sure how long it's gonna last but been ok since around March. I'll get a pic of mine next time I'm out. Can tell close up but only if you know it's there!

I reckon your fork handles are goosed.

I mean the abrasive material on the brake pads.

Cheers for the link to the Superflex site - just ordered a set myself! Rear 180 ARB and mounts are all painted up and gonna get fitted next week along with new matser and slave clutch cylinders.

Could be the brake lining worn down? Usually squeak a bit as a warning sign before they go totally to give you a chance to replace!

Received my replacement fronts today and they're the same as burbleboy's - RNB000160/170 with blue and orange stripes on the springs. Date code's are October 2001. After reading this I'm in 2 minds whether to do the suspension swap. All I want is a better control over bumps and a little less body roll - Is it too much to ask! Burbleboy - was your suspension lowered before the swap as you say your rear tyres rubbed? Mine's standard now and I don't have any tyre rubbing problems.

I'd check the part numbers on the front shocks (begins with RBN) and spring colour coding (colour stripe/s on the spring), also make sure they are a matched pair. You may have non-zs180 shocks/springs.

JIMMER - Hope yours turn out to be good'uns!

Front Springs 1.4 & 1.6 K series Non Aircon = ORANGE Aircon = BLUE 1.8 K series Manual box = PINK CVT box = GREEN KV6 STD R45 = WHITE STD ZS = WHITE/BLUE 2.0 L series Non Aircon = GREEN Aircon = WHITE Rear Springs 1.4,1.6,1.8 K series = YELLOW or BROWN depends on trim level KV6 STD R45 = BROWN STD ZS = BLUE 2.0 L series = YELLOW or BROWN depends on trim level

I've checked a few online posts and the rear dampers are supposedly all the same for the MG ZS cars but the fronts vary with engine. The ZS180 front damper part numbers are RNB000370, RNB000330 and the springs should have a white stripe down them. The ones I've been sent are part numbers RNB000160 and RNB000170 - no such part numbers on the Rimmerbros site? The springs have blue and orange stripes on them which relate a to a 1.4 or 1.6 K series standard 45 with aircon. Not only are they broken they're probably not even from a 180 - this is getting worse! Can anyone confirm that their ZS180 front springs have white stripes on them? Here's the source - http://forums.xpowerforums.com/showthread.php?t=34290