Jump to content

KieranEG6

New Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal info

  • Name
    Kieran
  • Age group
    26-30...not so youngster!
  • Location
    Isle of Man

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC VTi 5 DOOR
  • Model code
    MB6

Recent Profile Visitors

1,071 profile views

KieranEG6's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/2)

0

Reputation

  1. Oh and almost forgot the Winter Snow hack there in the distance. Import Green CRV on Evo Enkeis and lowered 30mm. Bubble wind deflectors an all. Best bit its on 230,000 miles and still strong as. Picked it up cheap for the engine but then found another cheaper so kept this one as a whole.
  2. Long time no see Civic5. Little update. Have been busy sorting out my other cars. Picked up a few more since last visit. Ended up buying a DC2 in the end and keeping the MB6. Win Win. Pulsar has had a little TLC with lower and new wheels. Wife acquired a new minter and I started refreshing my Blue EG6 Tracker. Haven't got any decent pics of the Mx5. Remids me I need to get some. Anyway back on topic. Picked up an EK with a blown engine to fix up (And Correct the disfuncional modifications from the last owner ) Fortunately but at the same time unso. It has a full MB6 hub swap with arms. So with the added extra rear Track and ET20 wheels it ended up with quite a confused rear camber setup. Getting there, on some functional wheels and the camber wound right back out. Turns out the guy literally just bolted on the rear camber arms as they came, wound all the way in!!??!! . Well now onto the Mb6 . Put the wheels up for sale as being ET20 15x7 they are not so much use to me. Decided to stick them on the MB6 to see how they look and fit. Swapped 2 knackered tyres for some 175/55R15's I had about. Figures they would sell much faster if I showed how good they can look. Still need to get another pair for the rears. I recon I could make the rears fit fine on the 195/45R15s with a little arch work and a tiny bit of extra camber, as they only catch a little, but will get a matching set of 175/55s instead. Camber is already at 2deg on the stock arms lowered. Dont want to add too much more.
  3. Was so good to be true. After further inspection car had a bit more rust than I thought. Also he wanted bit more money than at first. If im going to get a DC2 to keep it will have to me a minter either than or I would look for a mint EK9 instead. Oh well, I didn't really want to let go of the MB anyways and He wanted too much cash for the car out right.
  4. May have a change of plan. I was hoping to keep the MB6 as I Love having rear doors and a big boot. But unfortunately someone has just offered me a DC2 for my MB and £1300. DC2 Has cat back, Apexi ECU, W hand controller and just been remapped. He is struggling to afford the insurance (only 20). I just don't think I can pass on it. The ITR does have a few little niggles like 120k, not great red recaros, and tiny rust bubble on each rear arch.
  5. Little update. Can't stand crappy rocker covers. So painted up a spare one I had. Before. After. Is like night and Day. Just need a new manifold and a god bay clean to finish off. Tried adjusting but no joy. Threw the old one back on and its fine again. Must be a d**ky ign coil.
  6. As long as you didn't buy that one he just linked as that's a 2.25".
  7. Just fit your manifold with a 2.5 decat. Pretty much All 2.5 decats run 60mm piping anyways which is only about 2.35". As long as your center flange 3 holes line up as they should then a 2.5" (2.35" reality) decat will be fine. Otherwise get a 2.5 decat cut and stepped down to 2.25 at the center entrance either way you will have s step from manifold to center. Unless you stick with a. Standard sized manifold 2.25" which is dump.
  8. 2.25" decat UK length. Don't think there is a 2" as such. Manifold flanges are usually all a 2.25" joint or the JDM/ aftermarket 2.5" Piping on the 2.25" decat will be nearer 2" most of the time.
  9. Weirdly enough the car now has a substancial hesitation at low revs under load. Its almost like a fuel cut. Will have to investigate further if it worsens. As of todays work I managed to get one of my old crapy 2.5" stailess systems back of a mate and a DC2 Back box aswell. The center section was straight through and the manifold flange was at the wrong angle. So had to cut it up and rebuild it with a new center silencer. Had to also remake the rear flange as it was s**t. At first I thought it was going to be a sinch to fit the dc2 back box but then I remembered I had no rear ARB fitted. I had removed the standard one while waiting on the MG ZS one to arrive as the knocking links and bushes were doing my head in. So after fitting the ZS roll bar it turned out I would have to sit the Back box to the side a bit and cut the bumper. Was a bit of a rush job as we were closing up so basically just welded a rear hanger on the box and made room in the bumper for it to sit. Will get pictures later. Also really need to get shopping for a 98 spec or other decent cheap 2.5" manifold as that standard one is an Obomination!!
  10. Next was its second oil change, gear oil and valve clearances to quieten it down a bit. Bloody good job I did as they were massive. Also fitted a second Dizzy that I pulled of my spare C4 as it had a new cap and internals recently. Then the EK9 Mugen Airbox. Had to cut the pipe off going into the wing airbox resonator chamber, relocate the header tank and bracket. Is a little tought on the intake tube but sits ok. Really need to get my spare Rocker covers Painted so I can put one on. I have 4 spare covers I need to get round to painting or sending to body shop to do.
  11. Well thought I would update. Try and bring my Build thread on topic..... Slightly helped lower front end situation. I had a couple of spare shock forks so I welded some lugs onto the top of 2 and then ground them even at about 5mm above normal flange. Forces the shock to sit higher thus the body. This was straight after I fitted them. The rears have also settled a bit but so did the front. So thought It was the front that needed raising as it was catching on speed bumps and also rubbing arch over harsh bumps. Rear also sits much better with a Full tank of fuel. This is after the front fork mod, half tank and 2 wheels in the boot. Think it sits much better but still may need raising a little bit. Will have make a decision on if the Aircon is staying or not.
  12. Type R cams and a remap. Keep the limiter at standard. Think around 8200rpm and you don't need type R valve springs. Bigger Injectors are not needed as ITR engines run the same 240cc as b16a and b18c4. Forget looking for peak hp figure gains. The cams and map will see substantial gain throughout. Almost all engine mods are only gaining a small percentage of what they should until you get it mapped to suit.
  13. Its not an issue of piping, more so actually fitting it in the space. The EK9 Mugen box is fairly large. Wouldn't even fit into the space of the EG6 airbox as the distance from chassis leg to bonnet was to small. Will need the DC2 mugen box for EG as that sits to the side of the chassis leg like the Std DC2 box. I was just wondering if anyone has done it before. Considering the engine bay resembles an EK more than the EG would have thought It will fit. Is not so much a case of just pulling the std airbox and trying as I will have to remove the whole resonator box from the inner wing to make room for the lower portion of the carbon box. With it sitting in the car park outside my house, I don't generally get too stuck into taking stuff apart. As neighbours are funny f**kers.
×
×
  • Create New...