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skymera

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Posts posted by skymera

  1. Thanks all, I had my head under the pedal today and I can see the switch. Can't for the life of me figure which way to move the switch.

    I see the pedal rests on the switch and the more you depress the pedal, the further out the switch "button" comes out.

     

    Do  I need to move this towards or away from the pedal if it's too sensitive?

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    Also my ABS light has now come on. Mysteriously broke overnight :)

     

    I found this good guide by Dave! http://civic5.com/forum/topic/21-diagnosing-abs-probs-and-other-fault-codes/

    And I have error code 15. RR sensor open / short to power. Any usual suspects for this?

  2. There is a wee switch at the top of the brake light pedal mate (b****r to get to though!) where you can undo a nut and then screw the switch in further so the pedal travels further before the brake lights come on. Fiddly to do but easy enough and will sort out your problem. Think the nut is 10mm iirc :wink:

    Thanks for this!

     

    I have some days off from work next week where I can take a look  8-)

  3. Nice to hear the mot pass, silica gel? Thats a new one on me, I take it, it works well?, as for insurance, did you give sky or Adrian flux a ring, as they do give a discount for civic5 members.

    It's really absorbent which is why it's always shipped with electrical equipment. I got a big bag from a Dell box couple weeks back :)

    Just let it dry out during the day in a warm place.

     

    Another trick is to fill a sock with cat litter, knot it and store it in the boot. This never worked for me and just made a mess.

     

     

    Surprised silica gel isn't a standard item on the M's! :lol:

     

    Wow that's expensive insurance, is your address usually on fire? My EP3 only cost £400 for the year!

     

    Nice work on the drains though! 

    I live down south, not far outside of London where everything is daylight robbery. I'm happy with £499, it's my cheapest ever on any car. 

  4. *blows dust of the thread*

     

    The MOT passed without any issues. The replacement boot was just the ticket.

     

    I cleared out the underneath of the scuttle panel with a friend. The amount of decaying material was gross. A thick goop blocking the drain. Managed to nip my nimble fingers in and clear it out.

     

    Removed the front mud flaps to clear the leaves behind those too. No issues with draining now. I used concentrate screen wash to see if there were any leaks and where exactly water was going. Much easier to track bright blue liquid.

     

    Winter's round the corner so I have my trusty bag of silica gel in the centre console to soak up moisture. No steaming up just yet!

     

    I have one issue though. I've noticed my brake lights are staying on sometimes when I release the pedal. It seems very sensitive. The slightlest pedal movement will turn the lights on. Is the switch adjustable on these cars?

     

    And I'm about to get two more front tyres. I bought Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2 at the beginning of the year and they're almost at the legal limit in just 10,000 miles....

     

    Forgot to add, my insurance renewal is due in two weeks. GoCompare quotes were £1000-1500 which were not financially sane.

    My Brentacre renewal came in at £800.

    I gave Greenlight a call and they quoted me just £499.

     

    Worth hitting them up if anyone is due a renewal

  5. Another leak. Top of passenger A pillar. Sunroof drains seem okay. I used a funnel and tipped blue screen wash into the channels. No leaking and they drained pretty fast.

     

    Windscreen sealant was peeling away so i've replaced it.

     

    I'm guessing it's leak from the roof strips. Had the same thing on the drivers' side last year

  6. MOT failed last week on a split CV boot.

    Replaced using the handy boot stretcher tool. MOT restest this Saturday. Everything else flew through!

     

    My dash leak has returned with the recent downpours. A sloshing noise in my blower motor under the passenger side of the dash this morning.

    I suspect the drain under the scuttle is blocked again. Just removed the glove box for easy access to the pollen filter to squeeze my fingers in. Was wet in the blower but not soaked.

     

    Any tips on removing the scuttle panel? I remember trying last year and finding it a real struggle to remove the clips.

    I have some powerful air canisters so hopefully i can get away lifting the panel and blasting the dirt away blocking the drain?

  7. MOT booked for tomorrow, fingers crossed.

     

    Still enjoying the new exhaust system. Get a decent VTEC crossover at 4.5-5k-ish. Some noise, not much more poke mind you  applause.gif1

     

    Next on the agenda will be a Blox inlet manifold and a 70mm TB.

     

    Possible after that, I'll look into an uprated 4-2-1 as the collector on the stocker seems puny.

    • Like 1
  8. Old rotten mid pipe and Sebring backbox removed.

    The backbox is pretty nice and in good nick. I've just purchased a 3 month membership so I'll be putting this up in the classifieds soon.

     

    New midpipe fitted with a decat from a friend's EK4.

    Back box was a PITA to fit as the guy before had literally just cut it straight off. We had to get a little creative.

     

    But yes, looks and sounds much better. Volume isn't that loud as there's a B pipe silencer.

    • Like 1
  9. Had the car looked over by someone for an hour last night. Not a sign of leakage anywhere.

     

    Was traced from the reservoir down all the pipes to the slave cylinder. Boot pulled back on the slave and no signs of leakage.

     

    Our only theory is the leak is tiny and it's been leaking for a very long time. 

     

    Anyway, this was a good opportunity to bleed it... I doubt it's ever been done in the lifetime of the car. The fluid came out black! Clutch feels wonderfully smooth and springy. And the horrible judder pulling away in reverse and first has gone. Air in the lines compressing maybe?

     

    Also adjusted the handbrake as advised. 1 click on the handbrake now holds better than 7 clicks before!

    • Like 1
  10. Came of the M4 this morning and on the slip road, I pressed the clutch and it felt very spongey.

     

    Felt spongey for about another mile before I was able to come off the A404 into a residential area.

    Lots of play in the pedal. No obvious leaks around the slave cylinder or reservoir.

     

    Decided to lift the reservoir cap. Empty.

    Managed to limp it 2miles to Halfords and picked up some Dot4.

     

    I have a leak somewhere.. but where ? :(

     

    Any common areas or hoses to check?

  11. Hi All,

     

    Quick Q on handbrake adjustment.

    My handbrake seems to work okay enough to stop itself rolling down a hill but even at 7 clicks it doesn't feel like it's holding well.

     

    (checking 7 clicks due to mot coming up)

     

    Am I able to simply release the handbrake and tighten the adjuster nut slightly? 

     

    I've seen a few threads that say to release handbrake, wind the adjuster out, pump the brake, like the handbrake to 1 click then adjust till it drags on the discs.

     

    I have no issues with binding rear brakes. Rear calipers were new 1 year back.

  12. My driver A pillar used to get wet.

     

    I lifted the roof strip and found the underneath had a crack letting moisture in. A semi permanent fix was to clean it up nicely and then squirt clear silicone in and around then squish the roof strip back on.

     

    Bone dry a year later.

  13. thanks for the input mate aprechiate it, I've never experienced this issue with a honda as I always decat them but this is the first one I've had with 2 O2 sensors, I'm going to buy a cat and hopefully it sorts this problem, because the second O2 sensor it on the decat pipe with out a spacer so it's probably this that's the problem, I'll buy a cat and see what happens.

    Just adding my 0.02, you can buy special lambda bung which reduces the amount of exhaust flow the sensor is exposed to.

    This reduces the readings and can flick the EML off

    Example

    s-l1000.jpg

  14. The coilies have definitely helped the handling, but there's still more that needs to be done!

     

    And I've just gone onto eBay to buy that Toyosports catback I've seen for the past year or so and it's not there!  :x

     

    Plan B, anyone?

  15. Voila, she is done!

    Took a little while to get the car where I like. We ran out of time so it's not perfect.

     

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    Saw this as well which has me worried slightly!

    K1rjMbH.jpg

     

    I'll get some better shots today

     

    Overall. Very pleased. These coilovers ride extremely well.

    For those interested, this isn't as low as these go. Far from it. There muist be 2-3 inches of thread left.

    • Like 2
  16. Thanks guys.

    Got Friday half day at work so I can get these on.

     

    I'm curious as to how these adjust on the car....

    The top two locking rings are for the spring preload which I've been told to leave well alone.

     

    The bottom locking rings allows you to extend / shorten the shock.

    (My friend done a quick demo yesterday)

     

    Can this be done on the car?

     

    I'll go home later and get more acquainted :)

  17. Thanks to all the guys messaging me about shocks and springs, much appreciated.

     

    My MOT expiration date is rocketing towards me so I've had to work on a few things... and a few things yet to work on.

     

    So far it's had new discs and pads up front. Stops like a dream.

     

    My exhaust is blowing so I need this fixed asap. A Toyosports cat back will do nicely.

     

    And my latest investment will be here next week.

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    About damn time I hear you cry!? I know. 18 months. I'm sorry.

    • Like 2
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