Shaddow

Hi, As per the title, my mb6 brakes have been quite bad recently. Noticed it most after spending a week driving a different car and then got back in the civic to notice my brake pedal goes almost all the way down before I feel the brakes taking effect. I have evenly bled the system (twice) so confident there are no air bubbles in the system. Also no brake fluid loss, so fairly sure it's not leaking anywhere. thinking either the servo or master cylinder? having had a look around, I can't seem to find replacement parts anywhere? Are they all the same for all engine variants? eBay currently has an assembly from a 1.4, just not sure if that's the same as what was fitted to the vti-s (1.8). Obv do do not want to spend loads on sparkly new parts, so good second hand will do, or even rebuild kits if they are available. Just not found anywhere that has either available. anyone confirm my susp**sion on either the servo / master cylinder and also recommend places to buy new bits from? thanks

So iv checked and voltage going to plug is around 12.6V with engine off. Does this mean I have a bad earth somewhere? What is the best way to track it?

Thanks for the info. Checked last night and earth from battery seems good all over. Alternator also seems to be working fine giving around 14V across battery with engine running. Have not measured voltage to light plug. Anyone know what it should be? What will be considered low?

Not tested. Will get the multi meter on it tonight. Any idea what it should be? Also think I might have a dying alternator as the car sometimes struggle to start, even after several long journeys and the battery is only about 2.5 years old (Bought from Honda). Not sure if this could contribute.

Morning All, An issue I have had for a little while now is that my MB6 seems to have lost a lot of the light output form the headlights. Unfortunately I cant pinpoint an exact time this happened, but believe it may have slowly happened over time. With headlights on in complete darkness it light output is very low. Its as if they are currently set to "Candle light" power setting. I have tried replacing them with standard H4 bulbs, 100W H4 bulbs and 2 different HID kits. The HID kits give the best light, but still sure my phones torch has more light shining out of it. Is this something anyone has experienced before? Possibly some electrical issue, or headlights distorted on the inner lens? Headlight level is set correct and I can see the area where the beam is focused, so its not an "Adjustment" issue. Even High beam is CR@P! It just lifts the beam up higher, but because it now goes further before being reflected back of road, trees etc...the light looks even weaker. Visual inspection of the lens does not look bad. They are not misted up or look any different to what I would expect. Any help would be much appreciated.

Any suggestions to try and sort the problem. Dont feel too comfortable driving, especially not with the amount of rain we had this morning. Would prefer good lights when raining and dark. Ordered some HID's again in the hope they will fix, but if there is an issue with the car power delivery, then even HID's wont be at full capacity.

Brand new H4's. Any im sure original H4's could not be that bad. I could clearly see the car in fronts light beam to the sides of the car. Could see nothing for mine. Very faint difference between lights on and lights off. And it was dark enough for me to slow down due to reduced visibility by my bulbs. Not fun!

My MB6 definitely seems to be reaching the end of its life. Having recently replaced the distributor (twice), I started the car this morning in the dark and found my headlights were about as powerful as poundland candles. I use to have 35W HID's but after a bulb and balast failure, I decided to just replace the bulbs with standard H4's. Main beam works, high beam works, but the actual light output onto the road looks very poor. At 6:30 this morning it was difficult to see if my lights were actually on. I checked and the bulbs were on and the lens covers clean. Can there be a potential power issue that prevent the bulbs from giving "full Power"? I feel its almost dangerous to drive in the dark at the moment because I receive virtually no road illumination. (I live in country side so little to no street lighting). And yes, I have checked the beam level. It is aimed at the correct level. Looking at the front of the car with lights on, the lights appear fine and bright. But as mentioned, in car, there appears to be no light on road. Any way to check the power? What should the current delivery be to the bulbs? Any help would be a great!

Yes, its the B18 on my MB6. Will have another look, otherwise try and get a small paint mark on case and on the timing notch on the pulley.

Timing Light I have is a Darper 52616 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001K9V3Q?ref_=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1) No issue in seeing the white mark I made in the notch for TDC. The required "RED" notch that is 10+mm over to the left just needs a new bit of red paint pen touched to it for visibility. My issue is that I am not able to align the notch to the marking on the case due to very restrictive access. (Engine mount getting in the way). Anyone recommend a way to line up the red marker to the notch? KiNK43, if the ECU will just compensate as soon as the bridge is removed from the 2 pin connector, why is there any adjustment required at all? (ECU limit on correction?)

Hi, After a recent distributor destruction, I have fitted a new part and want to set timing. I followed instruction when fitting distributor to first make sure engine in TDC for Cylinder 1. To help me see the mark on the pulley wheel, I used a paint pen. Part fitted and car drives ok. Using a light gun I connect it all up and can only see the white mark I placed on the TDC mark, not the "red" mark that is bit further across on the pulley wheel. Also, due to engine mount in the way, it is difficult to ensure the timing mark "red mark" is fully aligned to the marker on the block. With the diagnostic 2 pin plug shorted together (as per Haynes instruction), engine start and with light gun the white mark seems to be stationary, but again, impossible to align with anything. Anyone recommend how to best set the timing? Also any recommended degree of advancing the timing? Thanks

For anyone with a similar issue. Turns out the sensor was damaged in the distributor so had to replace the whole unit.

Hi. I am having some similar issues with my handbrake. My OSR calliper is new and the NSR was rebuilt. (Long story, but thats how it now sits.) New discs and pads not too long ago. (Circa 3000 miles ago). I had both callipers off at the time and made sure all adjustments were made correctly and bled the system. Handbrake cables were replaced 2years ago. Know my handbrake performance has been very bad recently. Looked at the adjuster in the car and the NSR cable had a lot more slack than the OSR. With handbrake fully applied, it would also not lock the wheel. (Handbrake made no difference to force required to rotate wheel. To try and save myself from buying a new calliper (as I recently refurbed it with new seals and piston), I am thinking the reason handbrake is non-effective on NSR is the spring??? Bigg Red have said they can supply a spring on its own. Has anyone done this? Spring easy / difficult to fit? Is this likely to fix the problem, or could it be an issue inside the calliper itself? I assume the spring simply works a plate that pushes the brake fluid and applies the brake??? Thanks

Took the cap and rotor arm back off, removed the plastic shield and inspected the area. Could not see any direct damage. I assume the sensor is the magnet towards the rear of the car that picks up on the semi-circular metal arm. Is there a way to replace just the sensor, or is itr a complete new distributor? Either way, any recommendations on place to buy them from. Dont seem Eurocarparts stock it. I assume the car will be OK to drive? Car seems a bit hesitant if I push accel hard / instant. Better with a smoother pedal operation. Also struggles a bit more on idle now. If no damage can be done by driving, then great, but as mentioned, I drive 600miles a week. Really dont weant to wreck the engine. Thanks

Hi, Through normal maintenance, I replaced my dizzy cap and rotor last weekend. Car drove fine during the week (circa 400 miles), then one evening on way home, I lost power and car died. Removing the dizzy cap, I found the rotor screw had come lose, rotor had destroyed itself and thus not making connections and giving spark). Managed to get the car recovered to home and replaced the rotor arm and dizzy cap (Did not want to risk any damage the arm could have done the the cap). A few seconds after starting the car now, the engine light come on. I took the car out and it stuttered at low rpm at first, but once warm, there was no issue. Pulled through all the gears and all the way up to the red line. Shorting the 2 pins together, the light flashes 9 times. "CID Sensor (Number 1 Cylinder position) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor" Can anyone help on why I get this error and how to fix it! Is the car OK to drive with this error? (Need to drive to work, doing 600miles a week / 120 a day). Thanks