Shaddow

Thank you very much. So just to confirm, there are already some studs in the bulkhead for the 3 point brace which I can use? And sure the ultra racing one is not box section. Will need to double check. Good to know the DC2 stuff will fit. Would this be the same for the rear, if I wanted a rear upper strut brace and possibly lower brace? DC2 parts fit without modification?

Good Morning All. I am looking to further brace my MB6 with some Ultra Racing braces. Can anyone possibly tell me what other civic braces will fit the mb6? Due to not many places listing MB6, can I go for DC2, EG, EK..... Also, does anyone know if the ultra racing 3 point upper front strut brace will fit with standard AC installed. Some 3 point braces look like they cut through the AC hose route. Thanks in advanced.

All Sorted. Seems it was my HID Ballast that had a fault. Disconnected and fitted some crappy standard bulbs. All good now. Ordered a new HID kit, so should have good light again soon!

CRAP!!! How much do they go for?

Thanks. Ill follow all wires around today and check for melted wires or bad connections. Was just surprised it happened all of a sudden after severl years of it working fine. So I am confident the wiring is correct.

Hi, I am in need of some urgent help. Got home tonight in the car and parked up as normal, switching headlights off and locking car. I later noticed my car's headlights were on and on full beam. I walked out unlocked the car and opened the door. The stalk was set to off and there was no "beep" from the open door to say my lights were on. The "Blue" high beam icon on the dash was illuminated and I could not switching it off. Starting car, switching lights on and off, switching high beam on and off on the stalk but nothing. I removed the 10A fuses from the in-car fuse box for both high and low beam, but the lights remained on. I unplugged the lights which turned them off, but the blue icon on the dash remained on and could only get it to go out by removing the battery connection. I have HID's fitted and have had them without fault for many years. The headlights worked fine on the 1mile drive home from work today (10min before noticing lights were on after getting home). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, Just ordered the kit for my MB6. Once received and fitted, I will feed back on fitment. However Scott at H-Tune says he has sold many of these to mb6 owners and never had any negative feedback.

Hi, Anyone possibly be able to assist me with how much of the Kit will be used with my current set-up? Might be worth buy all individually. The kit includes the following: Front Control Arm Bushings Front Shock Mount Bushings Front Sway Bar Bushings - 26mm Rear Sway Bar Bushings - 13mm Front Coil Spring Isolators Rear Coil Spring Isolators Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Steering Rack Bushings Transmission Shifter Stabilizer Bushings (manual tranny) Ball Joint End Boots Tie Rod End Boots At the moment I have Meister R coilovers, D2 rear Lower control arms MGZR Rear Anti-Roll Bar Thanks Werner

Hi, Thanks for the info. Guess the cheapest way is still to buy the kit and just sell the bushes not used. (LCA's and possibly suspension top mounts.) Thanks for the tip on grease. Did it take long to do the job? Any parts particularly difficult to get out? Thanks Werner

Hi, Still looking for abs wheel sensors. Does anyone know if the Rover 400 rear abs sensors will fir the mb6? Alternatively, who the manufacturer is for the civic sensors? Thanks

Hi All, I am thinking of poly bushing my car and would like to know if anyone has any experience of Energy Suspension kits? http://h-tune.co.uk/index.php?route=pro ... uct_id=989 I am currently running Meister R coilovers with D2 rear lower control arms. Which bushes would I need? The kit includes shock mount bushes, but I assume I wont need these, or are they external of the coilovers? Thanks for any advise.

Hi, Just spoke to the guy selling the complete head. As mentioned, its from a 98 Spec ITR with 93K on clock. Reason for breaking is the car crank blew a hole in the case. (Cam belt side). My new question now is, would this have been caused, or coased any damage to the head? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Found the problem, as MBK89 says, it was the drop links. Strange it was not picked up by garage when we had the car up on ramps. Went for a drive the other day and had a huge "Clunk" as I made a turn in the road with quite a bit of camber. Putting the car up on ramps that night showed my Driver side drop link completely broken into 2 parts. New fleabay ones ordered. Could not bring myself to spending £50 each from Honda.

Hi All, Just trying to do some digging before I go ahead with a possible buy. I have a MB6 and want to get a bit more power from it. I have seen a B18C6 complete head on offer from a 98spec Teg. Will this be a direct fit to the B18C4, and will any further modifications be required? I do not want to go ahead and spend £00 on a cylinder head if it means I also need to spend even more on other bits. It seems most cost effective to buy a B18C6 cylinder head as opposed to just the cams. Will my standard intake and exhaust manifold fit? Do I require a re-map if I fit the head with cams? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

So Update, the latest fault code shown was "15", indicating faulty Offside rear sensor. I ordered the sensor, checked with a multimeter before installing and got the correct values. Installed the sensor and now the car shows code "17" then "15". I replaced the Near-side sensor about 2 months ago. Any advice??? Thanks

Hi All, I believe this question has been asked on here, but no answer or conclusion. Wanting to uprate my brakes, I noticed that there are MG 4 pot calipers made by AP Racing. They seem to go quite cheaply on fleabay. Does anyone know if these will be a direct fit to an MB6, or if modifications required, what mods? Also, does anyone know what size discs they use? No ebay listings mention disc size. Thanks

Hi Rich, Thank you for the info, and it probably is just a faulty sender. Normal oil light is not on, just the aftermarket gauge flashing (receiving no signal) when under 1K rpm. Has been like this now for about a week.drives fine and not noticed anything wrong. No oil leaks etc..

Hi, Yeah the car was nice and warm with oil up to temperature before test. As for custom exhaust place, called longlife and they quoted my about £350+ including the sports cat, but would need to see car and would cut of my corroded flanges. (Would prefer SS flanges). Any one know of recommended place in or near Milton Keynes / Bedford?

Hi, I recently had my car's emissions tested and they were well over! I have already replaced the lambda with genuine NTK one. Believing its most likely the cat, I am looking at replacing it with a sports cat. (No point in de-catting as my MOT is due in Jan, and will need a working cat) Most places seem to want £400+ for a sports cat ready to fit. I have found a couple of places who can do me a universal 200cpsi cat for about £100. Now just need some tubing and flanges to weld on. MY question is, does anyone know what size flanges I need to get for the cat? I know the front fixing in a 2 bolt and rear fixing is 3 bolt. I have a mongoose cat-back system (2.25 bore) with a japspeed manifold (Believe its 2" bore). My standard cat fits fine, so believe the standard flanges would be good enough, just need to find out exactly what size and possibly a good place to buy them from. Plan is to then take it all to a metal fabricator and have them weld it up. Any advice on the measurements and sizes would be great! Oh, its an MB6 VTi-S Thanks

Hi All, I have had a oil temperature and pressure sensor fitted to the car for the last year. Everything seems find and the system always behaved itself. However in the last week the oil pressure sensor drops to "0" when the car falls below 1k rpm. When installing the sensor, I know the sensor "blinks" when no pressure is read (When car is switched on, but not started). This now happens when revs drop to below 1k. (Warm idle on mine is about 780rpm.) I recently carried out a complete oil and filter change. Since the gauge started flashing, I have checked for oil leaks and cant see any. My oil level is also as it should be. Any advice? Thanks

This problem seems to be never ending for me. Paperclip error code shows Rear Right. Used the multi-meter as described in the guide straight from the pins on the modular block. Results: Rear Right - Nothing shown Rear Left - Nothing shown To ensure I am doing it right, I check front right and left. Both show to in spec. Ill try and swap the faulty sensor again and see if it works!

Hi VTEC Choir 67. Thanks for the info. Just read through some of the guid, and will come in very usefull. Now just to start the diagnostics and hope I can follow all the flow diagrams and electrical talk! Thanks

This problem seems to be never ending. Took my RR sensor off last night after getting fault code 16. Cleaned it up and fitted back on. Now I am getting codes 15 and 18. I have already replaced my nearside sensor. Seems now my off side sensor is not being picked up and saying I have grounding issue with nearside rear. Code Explanations: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=34&p=7728&hilit=abs+codes#p7728 Any help would really be appreciated. Just want to get ABS back on and working and get the light out!!!! Thanks

Hi guys, Finally got "code 17" to go away but now have "code 16". Where are all the grounding points? Is there a specific fix for this code? (Faulty Wheel Sensor Pulse (Noise)) Also, does anyone know what bolts are used to hold the sensor to the hub? Some of mine are rounded through heavy corrosion so want to replace them. Thanks

AAh, is there a reset required? If anyone can tel me how to reset, it would be much appreciated, or is it just the same as resetting the ECU? Thanks