Shaddow

Hi, Thats exactly what I did, I got a second hand one for the problem area, fitted it and still same problem. Maybe just unlucky and this sensor is also broken.

Hi, Need some further assistance. Just replaced my nearside sensor with a second hand one. However after plugging it back in, I still have my abs light and still have fault "code 17". Any advice what would be next on the check list? Thanks

Just got a quote for about £200 for each sensor. Did not really want to go with second hand parts as not sure of reliability, but seems it will be the way to go given the price.

Hi, I have had my ABS light on for a while now and just found the thread showing how to read the fault codes. Car is a '98 MB6 VTi-S After going out and doing this, I got codes 13 and 17. According to the post, it means FL and RL sensors are open/short to power. I am hoping as it is both front and back on the same side of the car, it might be something not related to the sensors themselves. Has anyone had this same problem before? If it does generally mean the sensors need replacing, where would be the best place to obtain new ones? I have managed to find a front one from Euro Car Parts, no no-where seems to stock rear ones. However, I really hope I dont need to replace them as the front was £150+vat. I have checked the little fuse box in the engine bay that says ABS on it, but all seems find in there. I also checked continuity on the 2 front sensors and both seems to fall in the same range (740-767) with car both off and running. Hope I can get it fixed soon as its not fun not having ABS when the roads are wet. Thanks for any advice.

Hi, I have had my ABS light on for a while now and just found the thread showing how to read the fault codes. After going out and doing this, I got codes 13 and 17. According to the post, it means FL and RL sensors are open/short to power. I am hoping as it is both front and back on the same side of the car, it might be something not related to the sensors themselves. Has anyone had this same problem before? If it does generally mean the sensors need replacing, where would be the best place to obtain new ones? I have managed to find a front one from Euro Car Parts, no no-where seems to stock rear ones. However, I really hope I dont need to replace them as the front was £150+vat. I have checked the little fuse box in the engine bay that says ABS on it, but all seems find in there. I also checked continuity on the 2 front sensors and both seems to fall in the same range (740-767) with car both off and running. Hope I can get it fixed soon as its not fun not having ABS when the roads are wet. Thanks for any advice.

Oh! Thought they came with an OBD2 ECU with some weird OBD1 wiring. Could be wrong. Can anyone confirm if MB6 are OBD2 or some different system?

Hope to get my Lambda sensor fitted tomorrow. On a slightly different note. Has anyone here used a ELM327 connector to a laptop using Easy OBD software? I manage to get everything connected through a 5pin to 16pin obd2 harness, start the program up and try to run it. Problem then is I get an error "No vehicle response / connection or power". I have tried to connect with the car in various states but no luck. Is it a faulty 5pin to 16pin harness or something else? Thanks

Thats a nice story. But it bothers me too much to leave the light on for months, and I cant see me taking my car to Honda any time soon. I believe it is very possibly the lambda as the current is a universal £20 from fleabay. Guess you get what you pay for. Ordered myself a proper NTK one today, so hopefully that will sort things out.

Hi, Thank you very much. Code that comes up is 41. Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction Does that mean lambda sensor is shot! And its only a few months old. Grrrr

How do I check codes? And yes I did a full reset again leaving the fuses out for about 20min and running car at idle until the fan kicked in. Then switched off and on again.

Hi, I have followed the above instruction to reset my ECU and the car does feel a bit smoother. (MB6) I have one problem now though. After replacing the fuses and starting her up again to idle for 10min, after a couple min the MIL light comes on. If I switch the car off and back on again as said at the end, the MIL goes out, and remains out for that journey. However every other journey I do with the car, on first ignition and after driving about 100m, the MIL light comes on. I pull over, switch car off and on again and MIL goes out and stays out. Any idea why and how I can make sure it stays out? Thanks

Ill try and take one tomorrow. Noticed today when its in the flat spot, just coming off the pedal and back on seems to get it out of the flat spot.

Thanks Shebabby, will try this tomorrow. And when I had it at garage, car was up on ramp, so wheels not lifted. But still could not see anything that would cause the problem. Ill let you know the results of the rocking of the steering. But could possibly be, as it generally happens when turning the wheel about 45Deg coming off a roundabout. Hmm,...

IAB's checked and seems to operate as normal! Hmm... flat spot also seems to ge getting worse the more I drive!

Could not see any wear on drop links. May change them as a precaution and see if it solves it. Had a thought and could the "clunk" noise have anything to do with gearbox? Some part of LSD when more load is on one of the wheels than on the other?

hmm.. ill have a look at the front hubs. As for spigot rings. Dont believe any are fitted. might just take wheel off and check. When garage had it jacked up on ramps, tried moving front wheels and looked for any excess play. Results = no play = no clear problem. grr...

Now completely confused. Just had my car up on some ramps to give it a good all round inspection and all bushes seems fine. Noplay in any of the parts. But clunking noise still there as explained in first post. Would much prefer if I found a worn bush or fauly part so I know what to replace.

Thanks for the info, will check and clean filter tomorrow. Replaced fuel filter about a 1000miles ago. Leads are 3years old and are KV85's. Hope the oil change and possible ecu reset will do it.

Hi all, Hope someone might have some more knowledge on this subject than me. About a month ago my MB6 VTi-S developed a flat spot at about 2K rpm, and only really noticable in 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. However, I did have some lag today when pulling away in 1st. Only ways I have found to overcome the flat spot is to either dip the clutch to bring the rev's up, or just plant my foot. Any idea what could be the cause? Sticky throttle body? I am carrying out a full oil change on the car this weekend as the last oil change was about 8000miles ago. I normally service the car every 6000 miles but weather and oil supply has kept me away. To try and solve the issue I have also replaced all spark plugs with NGK-R and also replaced Dizzy cap and rotor. This has made no change. Thanks for any advice. Ill be glad to get the car back up to optimum performance.

Hi. Where is good place to get front drop links for my mb6? Only seems to be seller on fleabay.

Hi. Driveshafts were brand new when replaced. Inspected boots and no evidence of damage or wear. Before driveshaft replacement clunking was whenever turning, however now it only happens around some corners. I have a feeling it's arb as the noise seems to appear when body is experiencing torsional loads. This would explain why it happens when going over large speed bumps with o/s wheel not going over bump. ( body experience some twist. ) Thanks

Hi all. Hopein someone may know the answer to one of two of my questions. I have a mb6 civic with the following problems. Firstly my car has recently developed a clunking noise from the front end. It is difficult to pin point when it happens but generally when going round a roundabout and at the same time hitting the road split lines. After some trial and error I managed to replicate the noise by going over some fairly large speed bumps but having the o/s wheel off the speedbump. I hacked the car up to look for any signs of worn bushes but nothing jumps out. The driveshafts were both replaced along with lower ball joints about 2months ago. Also, when I experience the clunk on a turn it is as if it's a two way noise. The cluck will happen on turning right and then coming out of the roundabout turning left it is as if something pushes back in place and cluck happens again. I can't see any parts fouling and it does not happen when turning the wheel staticaly or while the front wheels are off the ground. Thanks for any help and advice. For my second mystery. While I had the car jacked up I noticed a lot of what seemed to be oil covering the n/s underside of the car. The area in line with the fuel filter. Part of drive shaft and arb was covered. I used a mirror the inspect around the oil filter but there are no signs of leaks and my oil level is still correct as per my previous service. Almost looks like some sort off oil bomb exploded just below the filter but the filter has no oil on it. Again any advice or speculations are greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi all, Sorry if this has been asked before, but could not really find the right answer after a search. My ABS light has been coming on intermittently over the last few weeks and I want to get it sorted. My best solution I thought was to get an OBD reader. (This will also allow me to use the sensor on future cars and find future problems). From what I can see most OBD sensors come with what looks like a 16bin (Double row) connector. However as I have a MB6, the diagnostic cables are a 5 pin and 2 (or3) pin on 2 seperate harnesses. What connector do I need to use a standard OBD2 (or1) reader? I have read the MB6 comes with an OBD2 ecu with OBD1 harnesses. I have done a quick serch on Fleabay regarding obd1 to obd2 harnesses, but seem to be a ECU swap harness and not fault code reader harness. Any help is much appreciated. Regards

Hi all. Sorry if this has been asked before but could not find any info on this. My problem started occurring a few days ago when while driving, my abs light came on. The car starts and runs fine. The abs light comes on when starting up but then goes out again as normal. After driving several miles with no abnormal braking the abs light will come on. If I stop switch the car off and back on again, the light will go out. Is there a way to see if the sensors are faulty or just dirty? If they need replacing, can anyone suggest a good place to buy from. Euro car parts sell them at £180 per side on the front and fleabay only has used ones so not sure how long they will last. Car is a mb6 VTi-S. Thanks

My R reg Vti-S now at 73K