Paul67

Does anyone know what the difference is between the rear silencer for a MB6 and a MB2? The part numbers are HON6007 and HON6001 but the diagrams for both look identical. When I looked at my MB2 exhaust system I noticed the rear silencer had a narrower diameter pipe than the rest of the system (presumably to create back pressure?) Are the rear silencers for MB6's also narrower than the rest of the system? And has anyone with a MB2 used a rear silencer off a MB6 on their car and if so did it make any difference?

I was driving over my local eurocarpart today to try a bottle of k-seal when the temperature gauge nearly when into the red because suddenly the heater pipe completely give way and showered my engine with coolant. I've never been so happy!

Good news, it wasn't my head gasket! The coolant was leaking from where the rubber pipe for the heaters meets the plastic intake manifold and tracking along the join of the head gasket and then down the side of engine/gearbox. Phew!

Hi All, Yesterday I changed the distributor cap, rota arm and plug leads. After starting the car up and left it idling for a few mins I noticed coolant slowly leaking down the seam between the engine and gearbox. On further inspection it appears to be coming from the head gasket near the distributor side of the engine, although there are no signs of oil and water mixing together or bubbles in the coolant bottle and the car drives very smoothly, so it seems it just an outside coolant leak. Ive checked it not coming from where the top hose meets the engine and it I am fairly confident it is coming from the head gasket. Has anyone ever used had this problem with their car and does anyone know if there are good products I could put in the coolant system to seal the outside coolant leak, or is my only real choice to get the head gasket replaced? Thanks!

I found the problem! The plug on the speed sensor wasn't pushed home all the way and when took it off to check the contacts for corrosion etc, I immediately noticed it was full of water! It must have got wet the day before when I drove through a small flooded section of road. Maybe the starter motor was effected by moisture too... Anyway, it's fixed now

Thanks for the suggestions. I got the list of blink codes from here: viewtopic.php?f=90&t=4268&p=37703&hilit=Check+Engine+Light#p37703 Crank sensor and oxygen sensor are nowhere near number 17 on the list and I definitely had blink code 17. I'll check the connection on the speed sensor later.

I managed to do the flash code test. I got 1 long blink and seven short blinks which I believe is 17, 'VSS - speed sensor'...whatever that is? Hope it not too expensive.

You're right! But the small one and the bigger one both got crushed, so now all I have is a bunch of wires...

Thanks! I'll try the flash code test tomorrow when the weather is a bit better, although I may have a problem working out which wires to jump because a mate of mine accidently crush both blue connectors by shutting the car door on them a few months ago, so they are taped up and now I'd have to work out which wire is which just to do the flash code test...

Can anyone advise please? The car has been running great until earlier. I started it up drove off and within minutes I noticed the Check Engine Light was on. I pulled over and turned the engine off, waited a minutes or so and went to turn it back on to see if the light was still on, only it wouldn't start. I rolled it forward with the ignition on, dropped into 2nd gear and it bump started easy. I drove home ok and, thankfully, there was no Check Engine Light on this time! Although, when I pulled up outside my house and turned the ignition off it wouldn't re-start, just a click when I tuned the key. This time I popped the bonnet and give the started a tap and it started up ok again without the Check Engine Light coming on. My question is, would the Check Engine Light come on if the starter motor was faulty (sticking) or does it sound like I have other problems which caused it to come on when it did? I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions, thanks!

Thanks! I wasn't sure if I'd read somewhere that there was something to do with the airbag system under the drivers seat, but apparently not. I also intend to change the steering wheel when I get a better one so it's worth knowing to leave 20 mins after disconnecting the battery when I eventually do it.

Thanks! I wasn't sure if I'd read somewhere that there was something to do with the airbag system under the drivers seat, but apparently not. I also intend to change the steering wheel when I get a better one so it's worth knowing to leave 20 mins after disconnecting the battery when I eventually do it.

Thanks for the reassurance! I'm really looking forward to fitting these half leather ones as I have a large tear in the side of my (grey cloth) drivers seat which the previous owner had stitched with dark green cotton...

Thanks for the reassurance! I'm really looking forward to fitting these half leather ones as I have a large tear in the side of my (grey cloth) drivers seat which the previous owner had stitched with dark green cotton...

Please can anyone advise? I've managed to get myself a complete VTI half leather interior, including door cards, off ebay to put in my MB2. Is there anything important I should know about the airbag mechanism before I attempt to remove my front seats? Thanks!

Please can anyone advise? I've managed to get myself a complete VTI half leather interior, including door cards, off ebay to put in my MB2. Is there anything important I should know about the airbag mechanism before I attempt to remove my front seats? Thanks!

I really not sure, Noodles. There's one for sale near me on gumtree for £30. A quick look on google gave me the impression it may fit straight on.

I know many civic back boxes will fit different models but does any know if a type r back box would fit a mb2?

Cheers Rich. The last civic I owned I had for eight years and I replaced 2 back boxes and 1 mid section during that time. The only reason I'd go for stainless steel on my current 1.4 MB2 would be because it would last longer than mild steel and therefore be cost effective at the right price - but not a £300! If it was a a VTI I would go for it for the extra hp, but it seems any gains on a 1.4 would be negligible and therefore pointless. Unless I can find something recommended by others for less than £200 it looks like I will stick with the standard mild steel replacements.

Standard non stainless are about £35-£40 per section, but I see some Toyosports stainless cat back systems on ebay for about £150 - £170...

Does anyone have any recommendations for a fairly cheap and quiet replacement cat back exhaust system, possibly 2.25mm stainless steel? Barring in mind it's only a 1.4 MB2, so only looking for something with about a 3" tailpipe. I just rang my local longlife supplier and they want £299

immobiliser fuse blown?

as soon as I get it painted I will

Thanks Rob!

I went to the breaker today for a few bits and noticed there's a S reg rover 400 there with what looks like a very clean, almost brand new, sports cat back exhaust system. Anyone now if it will fit my MB2? 1"£££$££"!!