KieranEG6

Pirates Black

Oh and almost forgot the Winter Snow hack there in the distance. Import Green CRV on Evo Enkeis and lowered 30mm. Bubble wind deflectors an all. Best bit its on 230,000 miles and still strong as. Picked it up cheap for the engine but then found another cheaper so kept this one as a whole.

Long time no see Civic5. Little update. Have been busy sorting out my other cars. Picked up a few more since last visit. Ended up buying a DC2 in the end and keeping the MB6. Win Win. Pulsar has had a little TLC with lower and new wheels. Wife acquired a new minter and I started refreshing my Blue EG6 Tracker. Haven't got any decent pics of the Mx5. Remids me I need to get some. Anyway back on topic. Picked up an EK with a blown engine to fix up (And Correct the disfuncional modifications from the last owner ) Fortunately but at the same time unso. It has a full MB6 hub swap with arms. So with the added extra rear Track and ET20 wheels it ended up with quite a confused rear camber setup. Getting there, on some functional wheels and the camber wound right back out. Turns out the guy literally just bolted on the rear camber arms as they came, wound all the way in!!??!! . Well now onto the Mb6 . Put the wheels up for sale as being ET20 15x7 they are not so much use to me. Decided to stick them on the MB6 to see how they look and fit. Swapped 2 knackered tyres for some 175/55R15's I had about. Figures they would sell much faster if I showed how good they can look. Still need to get another pair for the rears. I recon I could make the rears fit fine on the 195/45R15s with a little arch work and a tiny bit of extra camber, as they only catch a little, but will get a matching set of 175/55s instead. Camber is already at 2deg on the stock arms lowered. Dont want to add too much more.

Was so good to be true. After further inspection car had a bit more rust than I thought. Also he wanted bit more money than at first. If im going to get a DC2 to keep it will have to me a minter either than or I would look for a mint EK9 instead. Oh well, I didn't really want to let go of the MB anyways and He wanted too much cash for the car out right.

May have a change of plan. I was hoping to keep the MB6 as I Love having rear doors and a big boot. But unfortunately someone has just offered me a DC2 for my MB and £1300. DC2 Has cat back, Apexi ECU, W hand controller and just been remapped. He is struggling to afford the insurance (only 20). I just don't think I can pass on it. The ITR does have a few little niggles like 120k, not great red recaros, and tiny rust bubble on each rear arch.

Little update. Can't stand crappy rocker covers. So painted up a spare one I had. Before. After. Is like night and Day. Just need a new manifold and a god bay clean to finish off. Tried adjusting but no joy. Threw the old one back on and its fine again. Must be a d**ky ign coil.

Link?

As long as you didn't buy that one he just linked as that's a 2.25".

Just fit your manifold with a 2.5 decat. Pretty much All 2.5 decats run 60mm piping anyways which is only about 2.35". As long as your center flange 3 holes line up as they should then a 2.5" (2.35" reality) decat will be fine. Otherwise get a 2.5 decat cut and stepped down to 2.25 at the center entrance either way you will have s step from manifold to center. Unless you stick with a. Standard sized manifold 2.25" which is dump.

2.25" decat UK length. Don't think there is a 2" as such. Manifold flanges are usually all a 2.25" joint or the JDM/ aftermarket 2.5" Piping on the 2.25" decat will be nearer 2" most of the time.

Weirdly enough the car now has a substancial hesitation at low revs under load. Its almost like a fuel cut. Will have to investigate further if it worsens. As of todays work I managed to get one of my old crapy 2.5" stailess systems back of a mate and a DC2 Back box aswell. The center section was straight through and the manifold flange was at the wrong angle. So had to cut it up and rebuild it with a new center silencer. Had to also remake the rear flange as it was s**t. At first I thought it was going to be a sinch to fit the dc2 back box but then I remembered I had no rear ARB fitted. I had removed the standard one while waiting on the MG ZS one to arrive as the knocking links and bushes were doing my head in. So after fitting the ZS roll bar it turned out I would have to sit the Back box to the side a bit and cut the bumper. Was a bit of a rush job as we were closing up so basically just welded a rear hanger on the box and made room in the bumper for it to sit. Will get pictures later. Also really need to get shopping for a 98 spec or other decent cheap 2.5" manifold as that standard one is an Obomination!!

Next was its second oil change, gear oil and valve clearances to quieten it down a bit. Bloody good job I did as they were massive. Also fitted a second Dizzy that I pulled of my spare C4 as it had a new cap and internals recently. Then the EK9 Mugen Airbox. Had to cut the pipe off going into the wing airbox resonator chamber, relocate the header tank and bracket. Is a little tought on the intake tube but sits ok. Really need to get my spare Rocker covers Painted so I can put one on. I have 4 spare covers I need to get round to painting or sending to body shop to do.

Well thought I would update. Try and bring my Build thread on topic..... Slightly helped lower front end situation. I had a couple of spare shock forks so I welded some lugs onto the top of 2 and then ground them even at about 5mm above normal flange. Forces the shock to sit higher thus the body. This was straight after I fitted them. The rears have also settled a bit but so did the front. So thought It was the front that needed raising as it was catching on speed bumps and also rubbing arch over harsh bumps. Rear also sits much better with a Full tank of fuel. This is after the front fork mod, half tank and 2 wheels in the boot. Think it sits much better but still may need raising a little bit. Will have make a decision on if the Aircon is staying or not.

Type R cams and a remap. Keep the limiter at standard. Think around 8200rpm and you don't need type R valve springs. Bigger Injectors are not needed as ITR engines run the same 240cc as b16a and b18c4. Forget looking for peak hp figure gains. The cams and map will see substantial gain throughout. Almost all engine mods are only gaining a small percentage of what they should until you get it mapped to suit.

Its not an issue of piping, more so actually fitting it in the space. The EK9 Mugen box is fairly large. Wouldn't even fit into the space of the EG6 airbox as the distance from chassis leg to bonnet was to small. Will need the DC2 mugen box for EG as that sits to the side of the chassis leg like the Std DC2 box. I was just wondering if anyone has done it before. Considering the engine bay resembles an EK more than the EG would have thought It will fit. Is not so much a case of just pulling the std airbox and trying as I will have to remove the whole resonator box from the inner wing to make room for the lower portion of the carbon box. With it sitting in the car park outside my house, I don't generally get too stuck into taking stuff apart. As neighbours are funny f**kers.

Does anyone know if the EK9 Mugen airbox fits MB6's ?? Have had one sat here for ages. Bought it for my EG6 but it wont fit that. I picked it up cheap as it was damaged, Is missing the bottom half part that goes into wing. Kind of just ends just before the bend to go into wing. I spent ages Fiberglass repairing the bottom half as it was also cracked. Even has new filter in it. Was well p**sed when i couldn't get it to fit my EG6. If it fits the MB then Happy days.

Makes sense actually. I could just to go on a front end Diet. Always a good Mod on a FWD car anyways to help Weight distribution. Can remove quite a bit. Can get costly though. Removing: (Rough weights) Bonnet sound proffing 1-2kg Airbox resonator. 1-2kg Craply cast manifold swapped to decent stainless 7-8kg Lightend flywheel 3kg Slim fans 1/2kg Fog lights (are F*#ked anyway) 3-4kg. Billet Polly engine mounts 1-2kg, Remove torque mounts 2-3kg. So would have to remove aircon. Biggest gain would be the Aircon pump, Rad, Piping and Dash A/C matrix. 15-20kg. But wanted to keep my A/C seeing as this car is for daily cruising/ traveling etc. Quite easy to Cut 25-40kg from the front end. Without mega cash. Mounts will be the most expensive. I going dig around the Bay and see what else I can chuck must be ton's of stuff I can Bin in favour of cable ties. I could measure front height before and after. Wonder if the S4C/Y21 box weighs less than an S9B as I have both in the shed. Also something I haven't seen on here yet thats always usefull. Anyone done a Weight list thread yet with all the weights of stuff on the cars. Seen a few EG6, EK9, DC2 ones around forums. Would have thought you guys to be well on top of weights being so chunky to start with.

Nope there are tones of National Speed limit area's over here, were as we don't have a national limit so you go as fast as you like as long as your not driving dangerously. Some coppers tends to take a funny if they see you belting past at 100mph bouncing off 9000rpm. But most they do is pull you and have a word, as unless your actually driving dangerously then they can't do anything. You do get the odd few jobsworths who threaten you with all sorts of offences but generally its just scare talk. TT is prime time for anyone to come over, they make the 17m mountain section 1 way for the whole 2 weeks. So its basically like a Free mini nurburgring. Just have to keep your wits about you if you go up in the day as there is always quite a mix of non local bikers going slow using the whole road and loads of local cars/ bikes who know the roads making the most of the one way, as you could say . If you go up at night or dusk you can drive as you like. Mate in his DC2. Quality is not the best but you get the Idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb_9haBVlKM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAd3Mhu67bU

To be honest its still filthy dirty as Im yet to have time to wash it. Think the issue with the Koni's is either the fork length or spring length. As both the forks look a little longer and the springs seem not much shorter. Must be that little bit too stiff at same ish length keeping it up. Will see how they sit on road at speed, If the front never rubs and seems sound then ill just modify the holes in the forks on the rear to compensate the difference. But if the front becomes too low for paced back roads then ill raise that to match instead. Must admit I do also like a nose down look but Its just that little bit to much difference. Edit: in fact I think there seems to be some confusion to which kit fits the MB6 (if any kit does) as there is the kit for 5 door M civic's that excludes the 1.8 Vti MB6 and the only other kit I can find is the one for the Aerodeck/wagon Vti. Would make sense for this likely to be the Vti Kit designed to be used on Aerodecks with the extra weight over the rear being Estates. Looks like they don't do an MB6 vti 4dr hatchback kit.

Rear Koni's are sitting a little high. If they don't settle im going to have to modify the bottom forks or modify the front forks and raise the struts on them instead. Can't stand uneven heights.

It has Begun!! Though I would start a little progress thread. Finally got stuck in with a good half days work. How it started. Managed to give it a quick oil/plugs change in car park few weeks back. Will change it again once run for a few more weeks. And after a bit of grafting. Managed to pick up a full set of Koni STR.Ts with the H&R springs and I have had these wheel sat in the shed for a while. So far Got all the suspension fitted, replaced both front shafts (cv boots split and i had spare shafts), N/S track rod end, N/S Rear trialing arm bush, clutch slave cylinder and had to fit one of my good new rear calipers I was saving for my EG6 as the one on this caught fire on the way to the garage . Still need to do the rear ARB links and bushes but just going to swap the lot out for a ZS 180 one. Why fix when you can upgrade . Don't really get what all the fuss is about when it comes to replacing the RTA bushes. Took me about 15min if that. Just dropped the toe link bolt, 2 big bolts to RTA bush, moved hand brake cable out of way, pulled down with one hand and smacked the bush out with a brass hammer in the other hand. New bush went back in just as easy. . Next will start in the engine side. I have an uber rare 2.5" DC2 Feels 4-2-1 manifold sat here as a spare for my EG6 but recon its to good to go on this as will be mainly missus driving it. Will have to look out for a 98 spec or other cheap ish manifold to go on. The system thats on it looks to be a cheapo Timax 1.4 or 1.6 one bodged on so that has to go, along with the cat (No MOT in isle of man so no cat needed ). I have a DC2 back box, just need to find a decent center section to go on aswell. Also have a spare new Distributor to go on at some point. Dizzy on it looks cracked and will surely be the original done 108Kmiles, sure a new dizzy will freshen it up.

Some B16A manifolds will not fit a B18C/B16B as they have longer blocks. Some hit the sump.

Generally 195/50R15 is the easiest choice as there its such a common size. There is plenty of choice and they are one of the cheapest sizes around. 15"x6.5" will be fine. Not sure how strong League's are though. Putting sticky tyres on and bouncing round a track does put allot of pressure on the wheels. I personally will be running 16x7's with at least 205/45R16's on, as unless stripped these M cars are fairly heavy so would think a wider, lower profile tyre will deal with the extra weight and force. The 195/50R15's would be up to the task in a say a R888, A048 or AD08 but recon it would wear them out pretty fast.

Thats an ASR subframe/Lower chassis brace, not an actual frame as such. Just a big plate that bolts on top of the rear frame. Is used (advised needed) on EGs and Non Type R EK/EJs so they can fit bigger DC2 or EK9 rear anti roll bars, as the rear frame is considered too weak for the higher stress bigger ARB's off Type R's. Has been seen to crack on EKs and EJ9's. Although the bottom arm mounting point should line up (but Im not sure of that) as the EG rear arms fit, you would need to fabricate the rest of the bolting support as it uses the stock ARB chassis holes to mount on, then the ARB mounts on top of the new brace. In thoery If you could fit this brace to an MB/MC then you would be able to run the likes of DC2 rear ARB or the ASR bigger adjustable one.

Have seen that about the ATF being used quite a bit these days. MX5 Guys tend to use every flush, clean, treatment around just to try and get rid of HLA rattle (different situation but same concept) Me personaly dont like the Idea of these engine oil flushes or treatments. If you have seen what can build up inside an engine then you will know why. Generally carbon build up doesn't do much harm if your car is regularly serviced. If its been sat for a while then only thing you will be worried about is a bit of excess condensation/ water build up in the oil. If you throw in a load of loosening agents that will disturb what harmless carbon there is, then that loose, bitty carbon is now floating about your oil system, pumps, small oil ways etc, and is now allot more likely to do more harm than before. First thing I do with any new car I have just bought or one that I have thats been sat, is change the oil for a some cheap stuff. Generally as thin as the engine specs/guide lines allow. Little trick I have learned, what I class as a mini flush, before putting the sump plug back in, poor 500ml-1Ltr of new oil in and watch it come out black at the bottom, this will pick up crap left in the bottom of the sump that sits too low to drain in the first go. Then Sump plug in an run the Cheapo oil for a few days/week or so. Then change it out for your prefered brand and grade. Actually tempted to try an ATF/ Engine oil mix as a tame type of flush to see what it does on one of my cars. But wouldn't do it on an engine I was counting on or just spent a load of money on. Personally only ever see 2 situations where engine flushes/ Oil system treatments are ok. 1- If the engine has had a flush every service since factory and is serviced regularly, As it should be spotless inside anyway. The flush shouldn't do any harm. 2- If the engine is a high miler with minimal service record, is running crappy and the flush would be a last resort to bring the engine back to life before considering a rebuild.