Butcher

I think I will take it in and see what they say. Still a bit concerned about leaking - been doing a bit of research and it seems the machines won't always catch slower leaks. What's the Civic like for aircon in general - good? Bad? Any common faults I should be looking at first?

That time of year again... And whilst I love this weather, my Aerodeck is like a greenhouse. The aircon has never worked since I bought the car 3 years ago. It lights up, it blows (on settings 2,3 and 4 )....and it blows warm I'm of the understanding that generally speaking, if it is not used, the seals will perish over time, and re-gassing will be pointless? What I'm hoping is that you will tell me no, no...Civics are imperishable. In millions of years time they will be the only remaining evidence of our civilisation. Of course the aircon will work. I'm guessing I'm being a bit optimistic though. Worst case scenario, is there an easy, and almost guaranteed, fix? Obviously I don't want to waste money gassing it, if it's just going to leak back out into the ozone. If it's not easy, or I'm likely to throw money away, then I can't be bothered to be honest. Would just be nice to have.

Thought it was about time to update this thread as the summer wheels have just went back on. Typically, this was the first winter I've ever known, in my entire lifetime, without snow! OK, we had about an inch, for maybe a couple of hours one day. Nothing really to test the Uniroyals. That said, I'd say they performed very well in cold, wet conditions. For the price of them I was definitely impressed. Generally speaking, I felt they gripped much better than my Falkens, which I was not expecting. First thing I noticed when I put them on, is that they're not as firm as I'm used to, but I guess that is to be expected, and you don't notice it once used to them. I'd happily run them all year round to be honest. Maybe next year I'll get to try them out in some proper weather...

Yes, screwed them in. I learned this lesson last time I changed the pads. Wasted a good hour at least trying to push them in. I felt pretty stupid once I found the answer on the internet.

Never noticed anything flashing. I didn't really check, because although the immobiliser crossed my mind, I immediately dismissed it based on the fact the starter motor was turning. I would've expected it to click and do nothing if it was the immob? It was one of those moments, you know when you start it, and you have a habit of turning the key for a set amount of time, say a second, then you let go without thinking, expecting it to fire up at that moment as it always does...and it doesn't. So you quickly do it again. Then very occasionally, you do it a little too quickly, only to realise it has already fired up the first time and it makes a horrible screeching noise? It was kinda like that. Except it mustn't have fired up the first time because it wasn't running, and the screeching sound wasn't actually screeching, it was just spinning. But for a brief moment there, I thought I'd actually ****ed it by doing that! But I could swear it engaged the first time. And not the second. Which would probably rule out the cold. And the immobiliser (since the key hadn't moved). So I think I might have a quick look about for any cheap starters to keep as a backup...

Sorted now ... I hope. Got in to test it out, bed the brakes in etc, starter motor didn't engage. Just spun freely. Thought OK, that's probably a one off. Tried again. Same Mild panic. Much frustration, having been working on the car all weekend to now find this! Rocked car in gear, gave the starter motor a good bashing, pushed it up and down the street to try and bump it ... only to realise that the starter was engaging again it just wasn't starting (flooded I assume). At what point the starter started working again (I honestly hadn't realised - all I knew was I was turning the key and it wasn't starting), I don't know, but probably well before I finished pushing it around the street knowing my luck. Anyway, eventually got it fired up, just as the battery was breathing it last breath. Quite lucky there Little bit worried about the starter now. It was white with frost outside all day, so maybe the cold? But perhaps it's time to find a new one? Anyways. Brakes are all sorted. Little bit of judder I noticed. I forgot to put the backing plates on (oops). I remember last time I left them off one because I couldn't squeeze them in with the new pads, even with the piston all the way back. And they were fine, but then the pads were practically wedged in. They have a lot more room to move now.

It won't start now!

The heat shield. Is it needed? The bottom bolt snapped, with the remainder still stuck in there, so it'll be a right pain in the arse to get it back on properly. Only held on by the top bolt at the moment, so it's just flapping about. Anyway. Handbrake mechanism seems to be working. Outside pad was down to the metal. Inside pad still nearly new, and the disc was rusting on the inside, it's evident that it hasn't been working at all on that side recently. The pads were stuck firm, and the inside I had to be a bit forceful with a hammer to get it out, so polished up the shims and cleaned some corrosion on the callipers and the new pads slid in easily (hoping that was the only issue). Sliders seem fine. Though a bit exposed so I cleaned and greased them anyway. One down. One to go.

Cool. My handbrake probably has the strength of a week old baby. I don't know if that's a good or a bad thing. Obviously it's a terrible thing when I want to use it, but for my callipers I mean... Will try what you suggested.

Need to fit some new pads to the rear tomorrow. Last fitted them maybe a year and a half ago and one is down to the bone (making horrendous noises!). Done maybe 15k miles (Halfords pads). I haven't done a full check yet, but I'm expecting this one to be worn significantly more than the others. From what I've read on here, the rear pistons are prone to seizing? But are they also setup like the front, with the sliding pins, and if these are causing any problems, they can be serviced DIY? Otherwise if pistons are causing problems it's new calliper time? Correct? I have noticed a slight heat emanating from the disc before when I've checked after a drive, but not noticed anything major, so I'm hoping a quick clean-up will sort it out, but posing the questions on here so I can build a better idea of what I should be looking for.

Well, I haven't heard a peep out of it all week. I'm hoping it's just something along the lines of Tom's experiences, but time will tell, I'm sure.

Interesting. It didn't do it on the way home tonight.. Though I wasn't sure if it was I, or my paranoia that was detecting a very feint rumble. Will see what it's like during the week. Don't fancy working on the car in the dark.

The thing that worries me, is that it's relatively loud. Not super loud, but there's been no transition, no hum, nothing. Just straight to a very noticeable grinding. All I can do is jack it up and check it I suppose. I shouldn't have read the internet. All these stories of catastrophic wheel bearing failure haven't helped at all Must be getting old. At one time I'd have happily carried on with 3 wheels.

This only started yesterday, but it's concerning me. Imagine the noise you get when your brake pads wear down to the metal. That grinding. It sounds a little like that, and it appears to be coming from the vicinity of the N/S rear wheel - though it doesn't appear to get any louder when I open the window. It only appears to happen once the car gets warmed up, after 10 miles or so. And from there on, it happens intermittently, but more noticeably taking right hand corners - even very gently. There are no noticeable wobbles, or performance issues. Just noise. I wouldn't describe it as a hum. Definitely a grinding sound. When I had a Rover 416 (Honda based), the CV boot split on the front, and when the car warmed up, because there was no grease left, it would heat up, begin to seize, and start pulling to the left. I'm no mechanic, and I don't know how the rear wheels are set up, but it strikes me that it could be a similar issue, even if different? Pads on the disc look good btw - at least on the outside. (My experience of this car is they can wear at very different rates!) Any ideas?

Stagea's are cheap as chips to buy. Different story running them. Expect -20mpg unless you're doing a lot of motorway miles. Then if you're lucky you might get 25mpg In comparison my (admittedly pretty basic) Aerodeck does 32mpg and costs me half as much in fuel! Then there's the 'Skyline tax'. You'll pick one up for half the price of a Skyline, but you still pay Skyline prices for parts. Different kettle of fish to a civic I reckon. Great car though. Loved mine. Give me a shout if you have any questions about them.

Sounds like a monster, Sleeper! Mine was fairly standard. Coilovers and whatnot. Just a really, really nice car. I had a dream that I was driving it the other night. Haha.

They're definitely rounded. I will try the nuts in them and see. Thanks for all the help. Just need to get my tyres fitted and I'm good to go.

Got my wheels today. Can anyone confirm what nuts I need?

Just had a look around and I didn't realise discs were so cheap. Though maybe that's why I have Apocalypse Now every time I move, maybe they're made of cheese? Because otherwise, they're in good condition. Cheers for the service info.

Cool. It would be nice if they were the same, but we'll see... I'll post pics when I get them.

I've been getting some really annoying rubbing on my discs in recent months (o/s front). Not when braking, but all the time while driving. Phishhh phishhh, phishhh phishhh, phhi, phhi, phhi, phhi...getting faster as I accelerate. It's like the opening scene in Apocalypse Now but not even mildly entertaining. Up until now my solution has been to shut the window. And it works. But it's not ideal... Braking performance itself seems OK. Though I don't really drive it hard. Could it be the discs warped (I suppose they must be to a degree)? Or something less sinister? All the pads I fitted myself not too long ago. But strangely both this car and a Rover 400 I owned a few years back both had 'issues' with the brakes. Sticky calipers and whatnot. I changed the pads on this one because only one (the inside one on the n/s front - not the pair) wore right through (the others barely worn at all). The Rover was similar with discs rubbing and so on (I think the cars share the same parts?). Is it common with these cars to have niggles with the brakes, and anything you can do about them?

Ordered the Uniroyals from Camskill, so if I remember, I shall pop back once the snow has been and let you know if they're any good or not... Heard mixed reviews so far, but at that price they're worth a try. Also picked up some Rover 200/400 steel rims on eBay. From what I can gather, given that those cars were pretty much Hondas, the wheels are interchangeable and won't require any new nuts?

Handbrake goes pretty far up. If I'm in traffic and stuck on a hill, I'll put it on, and every time the car will roll backwards. I have to pull it as far as I physically can, to the latch notch, when I feel something is going to go pop... It's just an annoyance really. Didn't realise you could adjust the cable from within the car though. I always assumed it was an under the car job, so I'll probably give that a try and see if it helps.

The handbrake on my MC1 Aerodeck is a waste of space. I think I read somewhere - possibly on this forum - that it's a common problem. Is there any way of improving it?

Might be thinking about a different one. Probably seen it about though, I have an awful memory.