EmZvr Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 I read an interesting post about making a proper intake. This is the topic - http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/intake-s ... ir-si.htmlThe key thing is that the best way to draw air is from the windscreen area because it is a high preasure area.So my idea is to buy a BMC CDA (http://www.mdmtechnik.co.uk/BMC%20CDA.jpg) or the Simota alternative, drill a hole above the firewall under the windscreen and connect the hose from the CDA to the hole. It's supposed to be better than SRI and CAI. I think the GruppeM intake for the 8th gen civic uses the same principle and shows great results.But I'm worried first because I know some aftermarket intakes lower horsepower, I don't how well performs the BMC CDA. And the other problem what will happen when it rains. The rain will get straight in to the intake. So what do you guys think ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngreen537 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 CDA IS CRAP!Had one on my EP3, robbed me of almost 30BHP!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmZvr Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 That's what I was afraid of. Any other ideas about how to make a ram air intake ? I can use the stock box but the hose will have to be very long... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngreen537 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 To be honest, where the air intake is on the M, the easiest option is to take it to the front bumper.The EP / K series engines, the intake is fed to scuttle panel, as that is easierst to get to! The mugen does actually go to the front of the car, but the GruppeM goes to the windscreen. I've had both intakes on the EP3.On the M, I'd think wore along the lines of catching the air at the front of the car, as it is much easier. Also, ram air from the windscreen back to the front of the engine bay for a MB air intake, it would loose the majority of the velocity before it did any good.How about...Remove the rubber trim on the bonnet above the light, insert a slim leterbox type scoope there and feed that to the airbox.I personally on my M, removed the fog light, fed a tube through the bumper and directly into the airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmZvr Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 My idea was something like that, the air route is small:Isn't the area above the headlights too small to do the job ? And also acording to another aritcle to get air from the front of the car it should be in the center which for pitty isn't possible on the M's."Grabbing air from the bumper has no effect on engine performance what-so-ever. What you gain from cold air, you lose from low pressure and this is why. Look at a bumper. Look at its design. It is designed to divert air around the bumper and around the car. This means that air hitting the bumper gets pushed across the bumper. Because the air is moving across the bumper, any hole in the bumper is subject to a venturi effect, that is, the air is getting sucked out of the hole creating a low pressure. It would be better to grab air from either in front of the radiator or from a rearward facing scoop grabbing air off the windscreen. Air in front of the radiator is high pressure air. The bumper is designed to create an air dam for the radiator, but since the radiator is a restriction to air flow, air is entering the air dam faster that it's getting through the radiator, thus a high pressure area is theoretically created. Whether this be 0.1psi above atmospheric pressure, or 1 psi above depends on speed, dam design, radiator flow etc etc etc. As for the windscreen job, there is actually a high pressure area created at the base of the windscreen. This is because as the air hits the windscreen, it is forced upwards. " source: http://www.fordmods.com/ford-4l-and-6-c ... 17963.htmlI think that adding a intake that doesn't lower hp is hard. At the moment I'm with removed resonator and it sucks in lower rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyekye09 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 silly question but couldnt you just buy bonnet lifters and route a cold air feed(from the scuttle) to a cut down short ram pipe and filter.....????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmZvr Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 If I do that I will just have a short ram intake with a little drop of the temperature (because of the hood lifters). But I hate SRI's and I don't think that they can bring an increase in hp. And also I have a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold without heat wrap and It increased the temperature a lot.To do it right there must be a box that makes vacuum (that's the key here - vacuum) and draws air from the windscreen. Any chance that the simota air box is better than the BMC one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan.. Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Quick question:Why are you so intent on it giving you extra bhp?You will most likely loose bhp unless the ecu is mapped to the new amount of air going into the air/fuel mixture. Also with the 1.4 you will not notice any difference bar noise unless, as i said above, you get the car mapped to the new parts. The ECU isnt a proper learning ECU so you can't just plonk something on the engine and expect the ecu to sort it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejt1979 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 i've got my cold feed direct from removed fog light to the filter! works really well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmZvr Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Quick question:Why are you so intent on it giving you extra bhp?You will most likely loose bhp unless the ecu is mapped to the new amount of air going into the air/fuel mixture. Also with the 1.4 you will not notice any difference bar noise unless, as i said above, you get the car mapped to the new parts. The ECU isnt a proper learning ECU so you can't just plonk something on the engine and expect the ecu to sort it outAs I said I removed the resonator and I hate the loss in power in lower r.p.m. (Maybe it's in the whole range, most think that it increases power but it just increases noise and I know my car very well to tell that this negates performance) In theory the air with ram air intake will increase when the speed is higher and will have better performance. I really don't want to put the resonator back which will suck hot air from the engine bay. And I wanted to do something different not the traditional SRI/CAI and also the idea about raim air intake seemed really good. But most likely it won't work. So I might put my resonator back or maybe a cold air extension but it will be hard to do a good velocity stack like the one in the stock resonator for example.Why the ECU should be chipped, isn't it designed to increase fuel when the oxygen increases which equals higher hp ? Also my engine is 1.5 - D15Z8 and I have D16Z6 intake manifold, 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and exhaust system. So the logical next move is to mod the intake. And I think the engine is really sensitive when we talk about intakes. Theese are small mods, I don't think mapping is necessary. And also to chip my ECU I must buy P28 (or alternative modable ECU) and it won't support my vtec-e.wow my English is getting better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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