Didjeridave Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 The honda manual says the rack can be removed without any mention of the subframe being dropped/removed... an hour or so's faffing says that's complete nonsense! Anyone managed without doing this? Otherwise, anything I need to watch for when removing the subframe?Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 hhmmm id like to read that on the haynes manual now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Sorted now; managed to drop the subframe about a foot which gave easy clearance to take the rack out. For anyone else's future reference, watch out for the power steering fluid pipe on the left hand side of the subframe, unless you remove that, there's only a foot for the frame to drop until it's taught. Other than that there's just the rear engine mount bolt to remove first, then the four subframe bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 puting energy insert in the rear mount is the subframe mount drop the easy way to get to rear mount?still int put the above in worth while upgrade though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 http://importnut.net/rackswap.htm?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Yes, certainly would have been welcome reading over last week. Note to all: DON'T try to remove the rack without taking the subframe off; the manual talks crud. With the subframe dropped (which is actually pretty easily done & not that heavy - I lifted it off & back on again by hand), the rack is pretty straightforward to swap. Hindsight is a fantastic thing; especially if it's someone else's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 noodels: didn't put the energy inserts in; engine mounts looked nice and solid. If I do, I'll be fitting the hardrace mount kit; don't fancy touching poly again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 says the R rack is quicker then thought they were the same makes scence though being an R alright if you can afford Dave, int like a normal compliance bush though ie no wear as such compresion only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Hmm, just looked up the price of the energy mount inserts; possibly would have been worth just chucking them on anyway! Not really comparable with the $280 for the hardrace mounts. Ah well; I'll keep that for a future job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 have you ant advice on doing the torque mount ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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