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Nice hes a quick lil b****r then

true that, at least the boy that said he was coming actually showed and paid what I was asking for it. Can't believe the amount of people that waste time

thank you every one !! lovely white and her little sister

slacken the cables right off on the adjuster nut in the rear ash tray , make sure the lever arms on the rear calipers are all the way back on the stops , then pump the brakes or drive the car around the block then adjust the cables to where you want the handbrake around 4 clicks is about right . you need to have everything loss and the levers on there stops so the adjusters inside the caliper do there job first . then adjust the cable .

The inner workings of the calipers fail on the rear its a massive commen issue across the hole civic range not just mb's. could be siezed pistons also ,i would get them recondictioned as a pair . second commen problem is that people keep winding on the cabl to get the handbrake to work better , this does not work you need to make sure the cables are loose and the levers on the rear calipers are all the way back on there stops . at that point pump the foot brake a good 20 times then adjust the cables to get a hand brake . if the levers are off the stops on the calipers (slightly on ) the calipers will not adjust inside for the hand brake . Rich.

I had replaced x3 calipers on my civic. Sliders were fine but the rear pads just weren't contacting the disc properly so replaced rear calipers. One day the the n/s/f brakes started to smoke due to sticking. That's when I knew the caliper had seized! Had to replace the front discs for piece of mind (I'm fussy), so count yourself lucky!

Thanks Dave. I just wish I knew everything the first time I did this... Or even the second....or third It's been a learning experience if anything. With the copper grease, I mean where the pad sits at the top and bottom. First time I changed the pads and re-greased the sliders, I thought that would fix it. I looked past the fact that I had to hammer out the brake pads because the build-up of rust meant they had zero room to move. Not having much experience doing brakes I didn't see what else I could do. Because of this they still had issues sticking. The next time I removed all of the rust so we were back to a smooth surface. Re-fitted, and I've had no issues since, other than this one calliper which I think may be the piston. But like I say, I'm not sure if I should have added a little grease too, to help the pads slide freely, and prevent rust building up again. Can the handbrake mech be removed with the calliper still fitted?

Some ive seen from browsing the web

Id love to cut n shut an nsx rear subframe in a deck n the engine n box to go with obviously would be different mid engine rwd deck

hello