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Hi there! My account is all good and approved now! I made that comment before my account was approved though, so I'm assuming it submitted my comment but didn't actually post it until my account was eventually approved after reaching out to one of you admins on facebook (I believe that was you @Dave). Sorry for any confusion and thanks for the help guys!!!

Good stuff, and good to see her in the fresh air!

Managed to get the car out into the sunshine today for the first time since October! I set up the ride height as best I could following some online guides (trying to give maximum "bump" travel) and adjusted the camber using a fairly cheap magnetic gauge, which wasn't the easiest thing to read but did the job, -1.75 degrees at the rear and -2.75 degrees at the front which seems to be a good starting point according to people on the internet who are much cleverer than me! Visually it looks about right comparing to other builds i've seen at least. Next time i'll adjust the front and rear toe using strings to try and at least get it somewhat in the ballpark. After replacing the steering rack the front wheels somewhat resemble this GIF currently!

Glad you got it sorted mate 😎

Turns out the handbrake problem was actually user error I found a post here that showed me I hadn't followed the correct procedure! Once I did that it was all fine and I didnt need to swap the cables in the end (so I can't comment on the MG Rover ones i'm afraid) What I can tell you is these parts are the correct length and and do work, but the quality control was a bit suspect (I had to file open the hole in the handbrake cable bracket slightly and file off a bit of badly machined cable that was hang out the end of the pin) 92.10.5233 COFLE 10.5233 Handbrake cable 1655, 1469mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review 92.10.5234 COFLE 10.5234 Handbrake cable 1636/1449, 1636, 1449mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review

VSS sensor top of gearbox, bet the plugs coming apart or corroded inside had a few play up easily fixed normally.

Same as CRV then had 2 of the sometimes its rot under the windscreen ive found that out, the step wagons very similar in design to the CRV. i would have one as a day van owned a Bongo 2.5TD and it was a rot box but i do miss the handy platform of a 4WD van, i dont miss the repair prices though LOL.

Yeah I had the windscreen one on the VTIS sealed back up last summer, most of the time it's undercover or under the carport at the side of the house.

Hi Simon we probably haven't spoken in 10 years mate but its the same VTI-S i have had since 2012 seems my account got orphaned in the transfer and i lost access, while the whole time the cars been off the road since 2016 take 3 years of welding and engine rebuilding to get it nearly ready for a return.

My Work Horse 1.6 SE daily again same as Paradox Fuel Prices keep me running this and reliability and keep the VTI-S on the back burner has all the standard leaks Ha Ha

Yeah i like a Volvo had a V70 T5 probably 12 years ago when i sold my 3rd MC2 missed the induction noise of Vtec so bought my VTI-S. Probably only thing id trust as much as a honda, alot more Juicy though 18MPG i averaged haha.

Mean while today i got the Aerodeck through its MOT with no advisory's i bought it 2023 for £800 had to do both Inner sills and outer as it was rotten and welded the boot floor in 2023 and fitted MB6 suspension, MGZS 180 Shocks and Brakes and spare VTI wheels i had laying about. Its still a 1.6 SOHC D16W4, it starts on the button every day and has never once let me down. Long Story over the last 10 years i have had many cars in between and they've all been terrible so i just decided back to Honda, Having owned about 5 MC2's VTI's since 2003 the first i had to find one that would just work, i have a B20Z1 i am rebuilding to dump in it but the VTI-S is priority to get on the road first. Shes an old Gal and a workhorse my Loyal Steed Like Arthur's from RDR2 horse LOL.

OK after 10 Years away from the Forum i have returned to get the VTI-S back on the road. I have Rebuilt the Engine again as the 2016 rebuild didn't go as planned but to be honest the main reason its been off the road for 5 years was due to many factors 1 being Money, 2 being Welding, 3 Mental and Physical health but ive done 75% of welding and just getting bits sorted. having a break while i help my mate rebuilding his Silvia S13 that's going on the ramps for its MOT next week.

Honestly I couldn't be happier with the engine. After blocking of the EGR it goes pretty well and it still returns great mileage. On my trips to the Czech republic and Austria it got 5.3/5.5 l/100km (50+ MPG) pretty easily without hypermiling. And I don't need to rev it to hell like the smaller petrol engines.

Welcome along mate. Start a member's car thread so we can see your car. 😎 I'm quite partial to an old volvo.. Do you have one at the minute?

Just thought I'd post so things aren't so dead. Thanks for the approval. I just got a 1.6 aerodeck a month or so ago since the fuel prices are keeping me out of the old volvos. I might just stay that way, the aerodeck is super cool.

Done quite a bit of reading and come to the conclusion that the handbrake cables I ordered were just crap quality. I can max out the adjustment nut on the handbrake handle, it seems like the cables are stretching or the wrong length. It looks like the Honda MB and Rover 45/MGZS handbrake cables are the same so i've ordered a replacement set from DRMGS (Rover 45 / MG ZS Handbrake Cables - SPB100720 / SPB100730 / SPB000580 – Discount MG Rover Spares - Tel 02380 001133 / Email sales@dmgrs.co.uk) - im hoping they are better made as i've good experiences from stuff i've bought there recently. Fingers crossed.

Lots of pages on his build thread, but this one has some of the latest pics of where the build got to

Think it's because of the side it enters the throttle linkage on mate. Chandler on here did the whole wire tuck on his Aerideck, might be worth having a look at his project thread. It was an epic deck that one!

Hi mate, Simon let me know about the pdf you were trying to upload. Can you email it to administrator@civic5.com and I'll get it added for you. Put a brief description in the email too mate. Dave

According to the list below "Front wings....All different" so I think you will need to get an MB front end. Ones from a lower spec MB should be cheaper though - the main differences I've seen are headlight washers and the lower lips are different on VTI and VTIS models.

If you did want to reach out to the guy who did mine, I got them refurbished in purple... Might help him remember

It's the passenger footwell on the stepwagon.. Think that's the windscreen as the gutter behind the scuttle panel wasn't just dry and clear, it was dusty 😂

Yes mate, was a bargain and it's needing some cosmetic tidying up but I love it.. It's the opposite to my go kart estate but great

There was a guy from the US based in Germany who had one, but that's the only other deck I remember

Yeah, I'm the same, usually drive with the headlights on as fed up of not being seen. Seem worse when driving through the day along our country roads that have a canopy of trees over them, so a dark bit. Will save money on headlight bulbs.😄 Must admit, they do look pretty good. Will do a guide on this I think.

There hasn't been any soak posts since approving the first batch.. Might be worth monitoring and maybe removing the manual approval?

Sounds good mate, interested to see the DRL setup. I must admit I nearly always drove around with at least side lights on... Must be off having volvos as a kid 😁 Was getting ready to say where are the pics until you said you'd upload them at the end 😂

So, as most will probably know I rather foolishly put DD up for sale recently. Decided I wanted a change, into an old Triumph Dolomite or something similar. DD has been sat for around a year and a half in the garage, so took her for her MOT so she'd be ready should she sell. Was fully prepared for a fail, just hoped it wouldn't be too much. Low and behold, she sailed through! Driving her back from the MOT, had a change of heart! Was never sure if I'd even be able to sell her tbh, and did have a couple of buyers wanting to come see her. But she tugged at my heart strings once again and provered herself worthy of staying in the family. Both Gayle and our daughter Faith knew I wouldn't sell her, but apparently I needed to go through the process before coming to my senses!😄

Finally finished the last piece of the brake upgrade today. MB6 master cylinder and ZS180 brake booster (seems to be the same as the MB6 one but I found a good deal on a ZS180 unit. One of those parts that people are asking stupid money on ebay for but if you put in the time on FB groups etc you can get one for a more reasonable price.) Unfortunately the MB6 master cylinder has the brake line fitting slightly further away from the prop valve than the MB2 does so I had to remove the line from the car and bend it in the vice to straighten it out which resulted in the below. I'm not particularly proud of myself and I should probably remake it properly at some point or maybe get an MB6 pre-bent line but it does work! Need to sort out a problem with the handbrake (it's not working very well - unsure why at the moment) and give it a wheel alignment before it can go for an MOT. I'm going to have a go at doing a string alignment in the garage next weekend. I've not done one before but if I can get it 95% of the way there then at least it avoids me destroying the tyres until I can get a proper alignment setup. That being said, many professionals do string alignments in the pits, so they can't be that bad!

Welcome along mate, and sorry for the delay in getting you approved. That's a nice looking deck, and very rare as the diesel. 😎

Hi mate. I've had a look at your profile and as far as I can see it's approved. @Dave any idea?

Yeah, I know that from experience unfortunately (along with ploughing through salty slushy snow years ago). There's not much getting in, but still need to try and track it down. Think it's going to need someone in the boot with all the trim out and a hosepipe job.

Be good to see that mate, and well done for getting it sorted. A few weeks back I resealed my roof seam, but as I was cleaning the channel out before I started, I was pouring water straight into the channel and there wasn't any water getting in. Still had a bit of water in since, so now suspect the rear window seal.

Well I did finally get her 100% water tight, there were several places where it was getting in, the biggest issues were the panel joints under the far ends of the roof rail flashing clip on bits, but also a coule near the sun roof drains, I want to do a write up when I have time to pinpoint all the areas with lots of photos as it may help others out with the issue in future.

Interesting. Yeah, the video did it about as i imagined, nice to see proof it makes sense. I am reaaally bad at manufacturing things, so i hope some decently sized washers will do the job just fine. Also, are you sure about the markings? I have only seen two little spots on the MB strut tower, but they are way too close together to be the ones to mount the bar on. Heres a picture of my MB3 towers: And one from an ej, where they look alot further apart:

Yes cars that came with it have studs. However I'm sure there are dimples said studs where would be on the cars without. Questionable how much reinforcement it offers. But better than nothing I'm sure.

The easiest way is to get a bar that mounts into the top mount studs of the suspension, like this However, I have been given an MB6 strut bar for free so I wanted to attempt this install. According to the internet I should do as follows: Offer up the bar Mark and drill 8.5mm holes into the strut towers Use M8 bolts (grade 10.9) with penny washers through from the underside and tighten it down I have all the parts ready to go and will report back soon ...

Water leaks are a nightmare.. It just goes where it wants and it's so hard to track down. Hope you get it figured out. I can see where mine is running down into the spare wheel well, it's just down the side, in the same place I had it on my other shell, so it'll be running down the panel under the rear quarter window.

You can see the clips on the pic here I seem to remember the fronts are easier because the windows winds all the way down and you can get at them easier. Main thing about the fronts is that they tuck behind the trim for the mirrors

Thanks Simon, warm weather eh, that's a distant memory, looking forward to seeing the sun again, these are on the list for my older 2 as both are suffering with the plastic coating on them craking & peeling quie badly, maybe a job for later in the year then, I'm just worried about breaking them when removing, after reading others on here have had problems. I think I'm just going to sprey them with Hammerite if I get them off ok

It's been a while since I did it, but I think I just used some plastic trim pry tools to ease them off.. As always warm weather is your friend when old plastic clips are involved....

Just seen this - there's a good chance that the culprit is the seam sealer on the roof joint under the trims where the roof rails are. The seal dries and cracks, letting water in. I've got to check mine as well tbh

and then MOT day came was confident of a pass.......... And it passed with flying colours not one advisory so all my hard work paid off and its still running sweet today had no issues what so ever I have had my laptop hooked up to freelog with the hulog and all is working perfectly on the map I'm using so I'm happy once again the car now

Future-proofed! You haven't adjusted your hand brake properly. Wind the centre console screw OUT fully, so that the hand brake doesn't work at all (releasing the tension built up on the springs on the rear calipers - the cables should be slack at the caliper ends, and the spring mechanisms should have returned all the way to their end stops). Then turn ON the engine to start the power assisted braking. Then pump the foot brake about 20 times to push out the caliper pistons on to the discs fully (this winds them out to their maximum possible extent with the pads you have in there). Then, stop your engine again, and pull the hand brake up ONE click, and ONE click ONLY. THEN wind the centre console screw IN, until both rear discs only just start dragging on the brake pads a bit, but consistently. Then that's it. If your calipers are working fine, and the auto-tensioner spring mechanisms are not corroded or jammed (make sure the springs on the rear calipers are nicely lubed up and free moving), then you should be able to pull up on your hand brake and be fully locked on a hill at somewhere between 6 and 10 clicks (to pass an MOT). Obviously, to do all this readjustment, you should have the back of the car up off the ground on axle stands. Good luck.