FREAKBOY

mine cost £194 from an independant garage 2 years ago

Don't need a better fuel rail til you get near the 400 horse mark

Its so worth it

well its 2014 and this is an old thread so how DID we do? Well my turbo-deck is on sorn and going to be sold as it hasn't been used much in the last year due to health and work issues. Anyone keep their goals?

anyone looking for a deck in the north

I got my turbo new from ebay for about £150 and they're still there. It's a copy but it's been on for 2 years without trouble, it's a simple straight T3 with A/R of .42/.48. It suits the motor well. If you take a turbo from another car you'll have the advantage of knowing where to find others if it fails. Personally I think a new copy is much better than a used OE item, but that's just me.

An oil cooler isn't a bad thing they're just a pain in the rear to fit and get leak free. I got fed up with mine so I took it off. The prob I had with mine was that I couldn't get a sandwich plate to go on due to space restrictions for the pipes so I had to opt for a filter relocation kit and incorporate the oil cooler into that. It was just leak after leak. I didn't notice any difference in temps after removal.

Questions are what the site is for and I like to help where I can. You don't need an oil cooler and you could always get a quiet BOV or use a plumb back system. As for the intercooler it all depends on the project, but if you aren't going for a high boosting drag car then i'd say use 2 or 2.25 inch bore. Bigger intercoolers cool the boosted air better but they take longer to reach pressure because of their volume. Smaller ones do a good job too but it takes less time to pressurise system and the pipework is less bulky. You've also got to allow for pipes and couplings on the ends of the intercooler too so your main issue may be the restriction in the width of space available in the front end. You need to choose the route of your pipework before buying the I/C. Have you still got air-con? If so it's 95% likely that you'll need to say goodbye to it due to the position of the compressor.

pgmfi.org and hondacivicforum.co.uk are good for tech info. I got most of my parts from Xenocron.com and they are very helpful folk. This site also has excellent threads. As for the fuel rail, well you don't need one as the stock item is good for up to 400bhp, you can also use the stock MAP sensor if staying under 10psi. The injectors can be sourced either new or from another car, I did have a list that I got from the net of possible donors but lost it on a re-install of my pc. Shouldn't be too hard to find it tho. There's not a lot of room in the bumpers of M's for piping etc so choose your intercooler well. A daily is handy, fortunately I had the use of 2 other cars. I also had a shed full of parts that either didn't fit or I didn't need. Including intercoolers, oil coolers, filter re-locating kit, sandwich plates, timers, wastegates, fans and turbo's. Most of which I have managed to sell on but they all cost me time and cash. Which motor do you have in it?

If i was to do it again I would use a cast manifold simply for the space, and I'd go for a turbo with an internal gate for the ease of it. I also found out the hard way that T3/4 hybrids are too large for useable boost, opt for a T25 or T3 for lower spool times. My T3 gives good boost at 3000 rpm, the previous T3/4 didn't boost till 4500+ which was hideous. One of the first things you need to decide is how you are going to make it run. You can go for a chipped ecu, or one with Hondata or something else. It's all the other bits n bobs that start to cost like bigger injectors, wideband O2 sensors, gauges, boost controllers, piping, tubing, wiring etc. You don't really need oil coolers, extra fans or timers for the UK, but a bigger rad can never be a bad thing BTW your deck is really stunning

Yes it can be costly, the trick is to know what you need and what you don't need, you can get a lot of parts cheap on ebay or scrap yards and some parts will need fabrication like the downpipe and sump oil feed. As for fuel it all depends on how it's tuned, to be honest mine drinks like a fish because it's tuned for max torque and needs another day on the dyno to get it right. There are no complete kits available for it that actually fit so the best way to go is to build up your parts individually before starting the job. Research is the key, the whole thing can be done in a few days if you know what you are doing and you have the right parts. There was a lot of trial and error with my build because it's unique. Oh and 'not going into boost' lol,..... yeah right, it's a concept i've heard of but can't seem to get the grasp of, boost is just too addictive

The cost of putting a B18 in is probably similar to turbocharging and is still a lot of work (ECU,wiring, shafts, hubs and probably brake assembly too. The thing is though that aerodecks are already available with a B18 (MC2) with 169 bhp. and I'd challenge any of them with my automatic turbo

Don't know what it is now i've upped the boost a bit.

cheers for the beers. I need one of those 6 way vacuum splitter thingys now, got everything running off 1 line & I've noticed the BOV opening late causing a bit of chatter on shut down, not major but needs dealing with .

Just fitted an electronic boost controller, Tucked into a ready made slot between the AC and recirc switches.

I used the clock & radio. I think it looks tidy & just fits after a bit of shaving.

yep h-tune or Xenocron can easily sort you out with the right bits

Hopefully I won't need to replace the screen, but hidden rust is always a worry. I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.

Your ECU won't run the B16 properly even if it fires up. You will need the ECU,keys and ignition barrel from the donor car OR do an OBD swap and run a P28 with a tune. You might also need a bit of wiring in there for the extra bits on a B series like the Vtec

Cheers, I think i'll be going for that as the wires are pretty easy to get to & I only use it for the sat-nav on occasion.

If you are not changing the ECU or the ignition lock/key then the car will be unaffected and should start. If you are doing an OBD1 swap from OBD2 you will also be OK. If you are changing the ECU from OBD1 to OBD2 or OBD2 to OBD2 or later then you will need to either remove the IMMO chip from the ECU, swap the IMMO chip for the right one or get it all re-coded. Doctronic also do something to bypass it I think. The engine itself has nothing to do with the immobiliser

4-4 = The starting system circuit diagram? Which manual are you using Tim? I'm using the one for the Aerodeck. Knight, I already have the wideband wired to the ECU with the Ostrich2 so don't really want to overdo that source. It was my first thought too till I realised what i've already done. Really I need a source reasonably close to the center

I have an electronic boost controller that i'm trying to fit to the freakwagon and I need to find a battery power+ and an ignition switched power+ and an earth- I was thinking of tapping into the CD player or the cig lighter but i'm unsure what's best. I'm placing the unit in the void under the ashtray. Is there an easier way to wire it in? Anyone help?

LOL mines even got a Honda shopping bag hanger bar in the boot, it cost £54.57 when new, it also got the mud flap set at £29.46, carpet mats at £31.13, front fogs at £213.62 and headlamp protectors at £25.53. I have, as you might guess, got the original bill of sale. My car in total cost £17,785.00 in total when new on the 9th May 1998. It has the towbar but there is no mention about it in the receipt. I suspect it's Honda fitted as the buzzer operates in the car when signalling.