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beastgtir

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Posts posted by beastgtir

  1. Accord ones in average condition fetch around £250 tbh.

    Here is couple of pics of the evo 6 seats (very similiar to atr seats but don't have the pump action on drivers seat)

    You can pick these up for much cheapness if your lucky on ebay.

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  2. Don't need to do nothing of the sort for anything upto 400 ponies on a b18c4.

    my friend had a darton lined block and oil pump killed the engine!!!

    We threw in a new engine n box from a low mileage donor car, slapped on an even bigger turbo manifold, intercooler etc.

    car runs around 300 ponies all day long without any problems. (has only had a road tune so no graphs but the tuner has mapped plenty of cars and ones with similiar spec were around that power)..

    dsc07807dq.jpg

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  3. Well worth buying the correct model ones,

    i have used the mtec ones in the past on my ep3 -- quite good to be honest!

    Rather then worry about uprated discs, spend more on decent pads!!!

  4. i think it may be your distributor buddy,

    very common fault on hondas!

    dizzy supplies the spark which would be why it struggles to start,

    VSS is on top of the gearbox and if its fault, your speedo would be stuck on zero. and no vtec.

    im pretty certain the dizzy is at fault, may get away with just a dizzy cap replacement,

    also there is a code similiar to the vss, i think its a crank sensor or sumat! u could have read it wrong

  5. i think it may be your distributor buddy,

    very common fault on hondas!

    dizzy supplies the spark which would be why it struggles to start,

    VSS is on top of the gearbox and if its fault, your speedo would be stuck on zero. and no vtec.

    im pretty certain the dizzy is at fault, may get away with just a dizzy cap replacement,

  6. common on most jap cars the shafts snapping,

    i remember when i was younger - i took out my friends crx to do a wheel spin, rev'd it let go of the clutch and a bag of nails sound appeared with the car not moving!

    Sometimes with these jap motors, they have a balancer ring on the shaft, water collects due to it and rusts it out which in the end causes to to crack and snap.

    They do last ages though! i mean most mb's are around 12 - 14 years old and still on original shafts!

  7. p72 is the ecu from the jdm gsr, almost identicle engine to the b18c4 uk.

    my friend has got an integra type - r, perfect for donor car. it might be sold but if not il let you know tomorrow.

    its a ukdm with 80k on it, heavy damage to bodywork all round.

  8. yes will run fine, but as said in another topic.

    might just be better to a chipped ecu, a skunk 2 intake manifold and throttle body and type r b18C cams.

    will work out cheaper tbh, wont be alot of difference in power

  9. yes, are they different obd?

    both from similiar years though? unless he goes for a p28/30 ecu which is obd1,

    conversion harnesses arent too dear either way.

  10. you can just use a JDM DC2 ecu,

    that will solve your problems regarding the immobiliser/coded key.

    or a chipped p28/p30 ecu with a generic map, or you can get a road/rolling road tune map put on it.

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