beastgtir
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Posts posted by beastgtir
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You will struggle to get 200 WHP or even BHP with those cams, most the times wild cams need a high compression engine. #
You could hit 200 bhp with those cams and RS machines ITR dome high compression pistons and a few other mods, but just throwing those cams in won't make much of a difference and could even be down on power as they are possibly over spec'd for your engine (B18C4 are low compression) compared to other b series engines...
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The engines do have slight other differences, I remember my friend had a bent valve on his premier and the pre-face lift ones were different.
I was doubting the apparently '1500' changes to the revised (facelift) model but the other day I was with a friend and we could have carried out listing the differences for a good while.
Interior, pre-face lift and facelift have different seats (inserts), door switches, pre has titanium gearknob whilst facelift has aluminium or other way around, the dash clocks are different, the window regulators are different
exterior, the wings are different, mirrors are different, bumpers are different, grills are different, head lights are different, facelift has covers on the inner wing tops, facelift has a radiator plastic cover, rear lights are different, the headlight/rear light loom differs, the alloys are different (pre facelift are light enkei stamped if im not mistaken)
engine, the facelift has different flywheel, the valves differ, the cotters for the valve springs/seats differ, the keys are different, the alarms are different and the fobs,
etc etc!
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Those with a VTiS don't want to let go!
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From what I've researched, a pre-face lift head is better for this swap as there are some differences.
heres a quick blurb from the skunk 2 valve springs/retainers
Please note: When using Skunk2 Titanium Retainers on 2004 and newer engines, pre-2004 keepers (cotters) must be used (Honda P/N 14781-PR7-A01).
So I went with a pre-facelift head to avoid having to purchase these cotters and added expense!
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Depends on the offer! or not!
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Now I'm just awaiting to do a deal on cams, backbox, dual valve springs and titanium retainers plus a few little bits then I'm good to start building the engine.
In total it will cost me around £5k fully finish. For an all motor k24 30th anniversary I think it's a good price!!
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Yeah I didn't want the hassle of mounts, shifter box and so fourth as that's around £2k in bits alone so went for an EP3 shell. Also as you said, with an older shell everything else needs doing too..
Good news is that my 30th anniversary civic has arrived. Got this very cheap as the engine has blown. Sadly the rocker has been off and head is ruined (rusted cams etc) but a friend has a pre face lift head for me. Was from the Isle of mull so quite a trek!!
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Looks mint bro
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Going to get a 74mm super 90 (s90) throttle body too. £166 delivered with adaptor for RBC.
This engine build is starting to get me on a power hunger !! Trying to eek out every last bit out of the engine.
Building cars isn't cheap. It was meant to cost me around 3k all in originally for a bolt in stock k24 swap but since then I have spent a lot more but I've haggled a lot and got good deals on most items well below retail.
All the guys selling the drag cartel cams are stuck on pricing. Not willing to nudge anything off! Might be fixed prices like hondata set for dealers.
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I would be very disappointed at 230-245 BHP.
Spec so far
12.2-1 RS Machine high compression pistons (Ordered) see tb and gaskets/adaptor
CRV mount (arrived) £50
PLM Power driven header (arrived) £250
K24 Head gasket and Oil filter (both genuine Honda - arrived) £75
RBC intake manifold (arrived) - looks to have been ported £185
Stage 4 Clutch (ebay job think ACT or F1 - arrived) £100
RDX 410cc injectors (ordered) £150
Throttle body adaptor (ordered) See below
Thermal intake/tb gaskets (ordered) adaptor and gaskets etc bought as a package with pistons for £260
Spark plugs 1 range colder (arrived bkr81ex or something) £25
DC5 throttle body (have to hand)
2002 pre face lift head (have to hand - doesn't need collets when fitting uprated valve springs/retainers compared to 04-05 heads)
Facelift oem flywheel (to hand)
K24 Engine complete (with gearbox - hoping to get some return selling the extra bits) £575
ECU/Mapping - K100 £720 supplied, fitted and mapped or K-pro £950 (not purchased)
The car should be arriving next week all being well, had a bit of an issue with the ferry as its roughly 450 miles from Birmingham and no-one wanted to take the job on! Its from the Isle of MULL.
I am now at the make it or break it stage, CAMS! This is looking to be the most expensive part of the build along with k100/k-pro and mapping.
Cams will need dual valve springs and retainers, with a set of Drag Cartel cams this is around £1000 without fitting. I'm looking to delay the build for a month or so to save up for a set as I know I will always be curious about what it would be like with a set of cams! With the right set of cams I would be desperately be aiming for 300 BHP N/A. Probably going to get a LSD box too, either retro fit DC5 lsd or similar.
Exhaust wise, I will be going 3". May possibly get it done by Rich (dynodaze). I would be using a Skunk 2 back box with 3" inlet or a Vibrant racing backbox.
Mapping to be done @ Eurospec by Romain.
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Tasty bits!! Carbon looks so good on Black.
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Quite a few come up for sale, There can be weeks when none are advertised and then all of a sudden a few crop up together.
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That's right. It's paul and seems to be mid way through fitting the manifold. Why he used that pic il never know lol
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Do the centre cap H in silver.
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Looks mean,
I'm hoping to get around 270 BHP - 180/190 Ft lbs torque with the K24 swap. Similar power to a Jackson Supercharged civic ep3!
RBC is a must on these, it can give gains of upto 20 BHP and similar torque, especially in the midrange when coupled with a good exhaust and manifold. Get a 2.5" B pipe and a manifold. I got my RBC from America cheap, you can get one from ebay.com for roughly £200 or less delivered! Stock injectors are fine for K20 with mods, they start to max out when heavily modded, cams etc! With bolt ons, you can push 250-260 and around 180 ft lbs of torque from the K20. Standard they are very limited and even just a remap changes them totally!
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The refurbed wheels look sweet, seen them in person today.
Will look nice when dropped and vtis kit fitted!!
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Sounds like early symptoms of dizzy failure buddy
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I thought we were talking about the frankenstien k24 bottom with k20 head .. Therefor the restricting factor in terms of high revving is the bottom .. Therefor, we were talking about the bottom not being able to match the natural rev ability of the top !
The K24 stock revs to 7,600 max. Pointless taking it higher as most cams drop off in power around that mark hence needing uprated valve train/cams to get it to rev higher. Plenty of americans hitting 8k all day long on stock k24 bottom ends. The K20 oil pump is used but its only good for around 8k, revving any higher most people bore it out or use the s2000 oil pump modified by earls usa to fit.
So the limiting factor is Cams, head work and oil system. The bottom end is isn't that weak that it wouldn't take any high revs, its just the simple fact that theres no gains to be had from revving it high.
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You can get them to rev them high with the right setup.
Limiting factors are oil pump (most use earls modified f20c s2000 one). Updated valve train and cams. Then you have to mess about with the VTC can gear and all sorts.
Typically when you hear about the K20/K24 it's in Usa and they have different k24 compared to Uk. Most use the 160 bhp k24 hence they don't put out good figures plus they use like 91-93 octane petrol.
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K24 is awesome, I envy you so much. Here's an inspirational dyno. But for this motor, 3" exhaust system is a must.
Figures sound good, trying to get it slightly higher then this as I've now decided to go for 12.1 or 12.5 pistons on stock rods to bump up the compression slightly. Also purchased a RBC intake too. Hoping for around 260 BHP and 200 Ft Lbs of Torque. Exhaust wise, I will most likely go custom 3" or if I can get my friends EP3 Skunk 2 Exhaust 70mm off him that would do me!
I am looking into a set of drop in cams too, either TDi or similar but at the moment the cams are on hold as most require uprated springs and retainers and after including cams that's almost another £1000 or so! Starting to get expensive.
Simpo the cheap of doing it is to get a K20 engine with a knock and use the head and bits and pieces. The expensive part is the ECU and mapping. In an accord you won't need much at all.
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So if I had the accord k24 would it go better if I did this conversion?
Yes a lot better, the K24 is a great engine even stock. Few bolt ons and remap make it a lot better even with the 2.4 head on. I think the VTC on the K20 is a lot better which is what makes the difference and also it bumps up the compression too. The K20 cams are slightly more aggressive and make more power higher up the range.
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Might be flooded, try pulling the plugs out and leaving over night buddy,
K24 EP3
in Other cars
Posted
Yeah the dash clocks have different symbols representing the abs or eps or something!
Either way, I've got the best of both.. going round to check it out as only seen the car in the dark when it arrived and pushed it onto my brothers drive!
Need to see what its about!