ryan..
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Posts posted by ryan..
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Mines used to flicker on/off or sometimes stay on constantly.
I traced it to the drivers rear door and the problem was the catch which the door clicks onto was loose somehow. Adjusted it and tightened the bolts and all sorted
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This oddesy should be fine:
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you must have a sealed gel battery anyway as its in the car. Lead acid ones vent so you will be breathing in toxic fumes.
You will need imo at least 45+ah and cca of 400+
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red tops aren't for audio. I very much doubt it damaged your alternator
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lol
I'll keep an eye on the thread for any updates
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hi ryan what is a distrubution block...???
fuse both ends(inline fuse i take it like an amp power cable what amp fuses would you think) A distrubution block is a way of seperating cables. So you'd have one 0awg cable leaving the block through the car and the cables already in the car go into the block at the other end.
You can use an unfused one which makes it cheaper to buy.
Fuse size......You'd need to work out what power will be drawn from the battery then use a fuse a bit above that. From what I can remember the biggest fuse in the fuse box is 60a so maybe 100a or 150a.
As I said, you will need to fuse the cable twice. One in the engine bay right by the distribution block (or if you get a 0awg fused distribution block you can kill 2 birds with one stone) and at the other end of the cable just before the battery using the same fuse size.
Your earth needs to be the same size as the power cable, so 0awg and you must make sure you have a very good earth point otherwise it will cause issues.
You could use this distribution block:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/con-bfd ... ution.html
I think there are 4 cables attached to the oem battery so you can twist them together and fit in the 1 space. Make sure its VERY secure and has no chance of escaping.
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Those race batteries will be rubbish for a daily driver. All they are designed to do is start the car and run minimal electrics.
My sugestion is you run 0awg from the current battery area to the boot where the new one will be. Attach the 0awg to a distrubution block so you can gather all the cables in the engine bay up.
With it being so long i'd fuse the 0awg cable at both ends. This protects the cable in the event of a short.
There is a gromit behind the battery (down to the left) which fits 0awg nicely.
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Not the best pics as its on a hill
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Dropped coils
My vti-s sat on its FK Highsports atm looks brilliant
Edit Mod
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sounds like the bulb might have popped yes.
To remove you need to undo the 4 screws holding the bottom cover. These are notoriously hard to remove as the screws are made of chocolate.
Once you take the plate off you unclip the spade connector then unclip the metal prong holding the bulb in place and pull the bulb out.
The bulb is a H3
Obviously fitting is the reverse
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my R plate mb6 has 110k. I bought it on 47k nearly 4 years ago
Its nice to have done the majority of the miles on your car so you know its history. I've got a spread sheet of everything which has been done to my civic too!
Edit Moderator,,
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boot could be the rear vents below/behind the bumper
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im pretty sure they just pop off
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This light unit fits into the existing slot left when you take out the standard H4 bulb.
This is find very hard to believe. The hole for a H4 bulb is about 1" across....that is much bigger. They seem to miss out the part where you need to strip down the headlight housing
It looks like its made of very cheap parts too, decent projector lenses cost that if not more alone.
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clutch
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no space for H3 hid's, halogens only im afraid.
I've got some PIAA xtreme white bulbs and they work very well. Did until my one of my fogs was hit by a stone anyway
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the bonnet must be open to remove them so they are pretty secure.
I've got a set, i'll see if i've got any pics of my vti-s with them on
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bulbs. there is only 1 bulb per headlight so it cant be the fuse
Only other thing is something in the wiring has melted or broken?
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make sure they are fitted correctly, its surprisingly easy to fit them wrong. Also, are the lights adjusted correctly? This can cause big issues
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which nightbreakers are they?
The older ones were pretty poor although people rate the new ones quite well. Remember the civic headlights are awful too.
Ive just bought a 56 plate octy vrs which has oem hid's fitted. Its like night and day compared to my civic lol
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they use odd connectors, not sure if you can replace anything without removing the connectors
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LED's (SMD style) are usless for anything like foglights, headlights and reverse lights.
The only LED's which work as headlights are those fitted to high end audi's, merc's and a few other premium manufacturers. Philips make them and they are just as bright as hid's.
If you can find cree Q5 bulbs for reversing bulbs they work brilliantly, ive got 2 in my mb6 and you can see loads more than halogen bulbs.
But so far you can't get led's which are bright enough for headlights/foglights
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only problem i can see is make sure you hold it on properly.
The ENTIRE CASE will be a heatsink so you have no worries about over heating
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i've got the same wheels as nick and have no problems at all
btw nick, 195 or 205's?
battery relocation mc1
in Electrical
Posted
5m of 0awg is really not that heavy. Its not hard to run through the civic either so I see no point in skimping on awg size and just go for 0awg