E=MC2

As far i can write off bleeding, oil and bushing as cause of the problem. Both cylinders work fine. There was half liter missing, so we refill it. Bushing and joints are mechanicaly tightened with big pliers, and now lever is precise and firm. Buth, problem is still present, maybe sligtly better because of better joints. Friend mechanic said that only fork, or something else in gearbox is problem, so the box will need to go down. At least, while waiting to get free time in garage, car is now fairly usable, with some convincing to go in reverse from time to time. Untill new updates, thank you all for opinions and tips

As i said above, clutch set is les than year old, presses still smooth, and no funny noises like bearing one, i am sure that i would hear it, even if it is in beggining of dying stage. I am waiting for some free time to go to the mechanic. We talk this morning, we will start from linkage, and bleeding of the cylinders. After that i might replace oil with new one. Ill give you update, as soon as i got one. Cross fingers for me

This morning reverse works noticeable better . Ill anyway check bleeding and bushing.

I would be more than happy if those few easy trick do the job. Ill do them, and let you know the result.

Clutch is like half a year old, and it is not much tortured. Some harder start in 1st gear, or some other harder shift, but very rarely . Pedal feel is soft, smooth and consistant, without any dropping or hardening areas. I would like to underline that other gears are much softer to engage compared to reverse. Also, same situation is on engine turned off, when clutch shouldnt have much influence.

Guys, for a longer period i have something like tiny grinding on slow shifts and slightly not so smooth shifting, which i solve with double clutchnig or faster shifting. Along with this, reverse gear somethimes doesnt want to engage, and after s**ting to any fwd gear, it slides in. Pretty common issue, as i can read. Beside this, all the time lever is light and clicking precise. But, few days ago, after night in garrage, gear lever at once became hard to engage. Rest of the gears work as before, only reverse is problem. Like it is jammed somehow, and needs more pull. Sometimes it slide smoother. It is the same both with engine on and off. Any ideas?

Fckng distributor arm was cause of this mess

I have tried swapping sides, no result. Also tried change of timing, also nothing. Timing cannot make such a big mess that it want ignite. We unmounted one injector to try it on MB. Can we make some problem during instalation back. Sealing, air...?

Can be some of the engine sensors? Tdc, crank...?

Mb's dizzy is unfortunately broken, thats why i took of my one. Mbs has rusted amd broken arm, and rusted tdc sensor. It is my old dizzy with bad seal, so moisture made mess inside.

I dont know what else can be. Today i have tried my old cables, which were replaced even they work corectly. No ignition. Also tried with starter spray, and no ignition. So i can exclude fuel as a problem. It must be something with eletricity, but i am bangin my head to the wall what the problem it might be. Maybe ground, but car run like a dream before it sudenly died, without moving car one milimeter from it was parked and without touching anything but the distributor. Edit: i am lying, we took of fuel rail to borrow one injector, but we place it back as it was. And as i said, i think that fuel is not problem

Hello guys. Please dont be angry if i mistake subforum. 7 days ago my deck VTi suddenly died. Had working well for a long time. 7 days ago, i took of distributor and cables, and swap them for a test on MB6. MB hardly starded because of jammed injector, but even with my injector, had problems with starting. But its starded. After that, i just unmount everything and mount back to my engine, and problem. Pretty same symptoms like on MB6. Car or dont start at all, or start, but had chocking on 2k rpm when i press gas pedal. If i run over those revs, engine or choke again, or accept gas up to limiter. It idle perfectly. And then, no ignition at all. Yestertay i ordered new ignitor, and same symptoms, but this time it starts easier, but again hard. Sometimes it start up after 1-2 seconds, sometimes it cranks for a long time, and it sometimes start, sometimes engine got loud crank noise with loud suction noise in air filter, and no ignition or like ignition in reverse. Also tried to put on other used cap, and no benefits. Car runs on petrol and LPG, and before this it worked perfectly on both fuels. Now it acts the same on both fuels, so i doubt that the fueling is the problem. Ignition coil is replaced 5 months ago. Every cable drops spark on engine block with scredriver spark test. Spark plug is dry. Cap and rotor looks pretty goor. Distributer interior is dry, and rust free. Change of engine timing also doesnt make any difference. In the dark there is no visible spakring either on distributor or somewhere on the cables. Do anyone know what might be, i am desperate.

do not excuse, be my guest, great video @dexter - as i can see, your driving conditions are pretty similar to mine here, so nordic tires would be great option. Also i saw some nordic vs normal winters comparison test, and i couldn belive how much difference they produce. But then i got cold shower when i sow prices . I need to correct you. Vtec + snow + LSD + massive understeer can be quite a lot of fun

Hm, it make sence. My last 2 cars have lsd (mc2 and s14 sx), so maybe i forgot how open diff car act on snow You've made my day :D :D

Sure, it is LSD's point, but on snow it force both wheels to spin, and if car stay on place they dig own holes, and instantly make ice