E=MC2

my job is 5km away, so engine don't have time to prepare for vtec

you're doing it all wrong

you're doing it all wrong

you serbs are not just normal wait, i am serb too i think you should know me yes, yes, you bought that car in front of my nose , so i needed to buy 200sx

this is drop link as you can see, LAC mounting point bush is in metal shell, so it cannot be removed from link. Or i dont know ho to remove it.

can i use friends Rover 420 diesel chasis number to order right rear ARB drop link? ARB looks preety much as ZS's one, but please confirm it if anyone can

we are waiting for someone to contact MG owners as for me, because i cannot found MG scrap yard somewhere near, and because i've during clutch change found that rack replacement isn't so easy to do, i temporarily left idea but still very interested come ooonnn people, lets make our cars more agile

sh... i think that folded skin is main problem if someone dig out roof picture of liftback or aerodeck non sunroof model, please attach it here so we can compare them.

Hi people. Yesterday i bought MB6 on scrapyard for spare parts. It cannot be legalized for daily drive, only i can use engine for replacement for my Aerodeck, but theres bunch of very good body, mechanic and eletrical parts. Because MB6 has sunroof, i would like to install it on my car. Is there any diferences on top panel between models with or without sunroof. Some rails, mounting points, strut bars.... or everything is the same, only sunroof model has whole in roof sheet (and ceiling ).

then call chasis brothers , you all live in UK

how many turns lock to lock is on Mk1 model? and does zs120 and zs180 cary the same rack?

Valeo is on car for a month and a half and it works great clutch pedal is unbelievable soft , and plate grip is very good so for daily driven car more than double cheaper Valeo set is very, very good choice

then it is gasket thanx mate

guys, i have very strange problem with my B18C4 temp. On daily drive, no metter if its open road, urban area, normal uphill ride, traffic jam, freezing or tropical air temperatures, temp gauge stays still where it should be. but, when i fallow slower trafic on high revs waiting to overtake and finaly start to accelerate through gears touching rev lmtr, or when i drive uphill in high gear on low revs, or drive uphill course with squeezing last horsepower from engine, engine starts to rise preety high attemping to hit red area. When i step off the pedal and calm down engine, or when i change to lower gear and rise rews to 3-4krpm (during uphill in high gear and low revs), everything come back to normal. So normal that after very short period i can freely start agresively to accelerate, of course again with avoiding long ride in one gear on high revs because of new temp rise. Cooling fan is working, thermostat is changed and it oppenes watter cycle, i repeat that even on trafic jam on +40 celsius degree car is not overheating, car stands allmost any linear torture, and only in those few situations temp scale goes up Some mechanik said that it mght be little crack on headgasket, but i would like to know is there any other explanation Thanx

compressor is not working ac system is refilled, radiator vent iz starting to spin when i press ac button, but compressor does not want to engage is there some sensor which should send signal to compressor, or compressor clutch is just dead and i need new unit if i need new unit, does it fot from some another Honda or Civic, or i need specifically from VTi?

mine deck dropped 15mm on the front, and 25-30mm on the rear it would be nice that front is lower, but for £100 this is great result but handling is unbelievably better i am in love how neutral and agile car is after full ZS180 suspension swap

heheh, no prob mate Post? to expencive with sending costs for less money i have oem exedy here is oem itr clutch any better than oem mb6/mc2 (they have slightly different catalog codes), and will it fit to my deck flywheel and gearbox

more than 2000km far from me

how do you mean "standard oem"? honda original part or any oem?

open your heart

exedy stg1 would allso be my choice, but oem as i heard is same as honda oem, or maybe bit worse valeo on the other side (allso as i heard) contain totaly refabricated pressure plate and brand new disc, so price secret lays there i know that exedy is good choice, but i dont know is valeo bad

some of you know for my hard gearshifting problems from few months ago during summer i only drive motocycle, so the clutch problem wasnt on my daily menu, but now it is time to consider clutch kit replacement i have 2 offers oem exedy for 175 euros or oem valeo for 95 (i can even buy Valeo for Integra type R for arround 100 euros) is exedy so much better, and valeo is rubbish and cannot withstand B18 torture, or valeo can do all the work properly? t.h.o, price difference isn't insignificant

as i know, rear shocks are much shorter than mb's

true, true ill consider dc2 ones, but first i will look for bushing for mg

yes, but bushing is in metal capsule, and i dont know can it be replaced