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DeLaSoul

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DeLaSoul last won the day on December 6

DeLaSoul had the most liked content!

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About DeLaSoul

  • Rank
    Member

Personal info

  • Name
    Dave
  • Age group
    31-40...Oldish
  • Location
    Swindon

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC VTi AERODECK
  • Model code
    MC2
  1. Thanks, when I can get home to England I will get it painted and the outside will look like a complete car at least and make it worthy.
  2. Amazed mine is here, it's not finished yet!! Still waiting on a few bits before shot blasting and paint
  3. roll cage

    You may find they make a Sparco or OMP one off the shelf for the Rover MG which should fit but not the Civic. I had mine custom built to a spec but it depends on how serious you are and what you want. Look for the Rover one first
  4. Rear subframe brace options

    I asked our workshop nicely, and when that failed I bribed them with Krispy Creme doughnuts! I haven't been on the machine tools properly since 1999 and there were a few things I forgot when I was going through it with them. Cutting my own car was hardest bit, but I've got a friend coming around to weld in plates over the holes at some point next week (more doughnuts required!)
  5. Rear subframe brace options

    I wouldn't take the risk of machining, grinding, welding someone else's car parts!!! Plus it makes mine pretty unique to have what maybe the only Aerodeck with a F7 lower brace
  6. Rear subframe brace options

    nonononononononononononononononono! lol
  7. Rear subframe brace options

    It will allow me to use DC2 ARB's and a lot more adjustment as the ARB itself can be lowered and raised to match the ride height of the chassis to keep the arms straight. With the LCA's on the car already I have multiple pickup points to allow a subtle stiffening/softening of the ARB and I will get some adjustable drop links. Finally, linking the ARB to the rear suspension instead of the Rover L brackets ties everything in properly so for what I am doing I think it will be worth it, but for normal road use I think this is way too much effort. I am also a little bit crazy to do all this in the first place but life would be boring otherwise!!!
  8. Rear subframe brace options

    Some Finished off the plugs and counterbored the new holes approx 5mm in per side to match the measurements on the chassis So the brace goes on the chassis (just) but hits the rear ABS sensor bolt holes so didn't sit flush with the subframe So angle grinder to the rescue (I hate cutting the chassis!) Brace now sits flush and I could drill the ARB holes in the subframe. AS you can see the upper hole in the frame still sits off the subframe so I'll machine a small spacer to make up the difference. Next job is to make up some infill pieces for the sub frame, weld them in and paint over. The kit came with a piece to mount inside the subframe to give threaded inserts to bolt the ARB to, these too have to modified slightly but that's 5 minutes with a saw and a file. Too much work, wouldn't recommend this to anyone!
  9. Rear subframe brace options

    Well I will know by the weekend if this will fit. Got some interference fit plug turned out of aluminium and pressed them into the brace (with a little industrial bearing lock for good measure) and put it all on the mill ready to flush cut the plug. Then drill the new holes in the brace and hopefully fit it on the chassis by the weekend, or have an expensive paperweight for my desk!
  10. Rear subframe brace options

    I found Honda hookup good for quite a lot of stuff but as you say the non-EU models.
  11. DC2 or MG ZS suspension?

    If you are working to a relatively tight budget, you have a very limited choice. Don't forget (unless you've already done so) that when lowering the car, you also change all the camber angles so to stop your tyres wearing away on the insides you'll need to compensate with adjustable arms etc. Stock DC2 LCA's on the rear are 50mm wide (if you find ones with the same style as our MB/MC's), where ours are 40mm from memory. If you look a the Miester R setup you'll see that the rears come with shims (well washers) to make up the difference in arm thickness You'll want an even drop front and rear, as Tom says the stock setup gives some chassis rake so if you lower both the front and back by the same amount you'll be okay. If you don't you're also changing the caster angle and weight balance. The stock front/rear ride height difference isn't much but try to keep it - it's there for a reason! Finally, search through the forum/facebook page as see what peoples experience is with eBay setups. Personally, I agree with Krzys, go cheap pay twice. Coilovers would give you the flexibility to get the chassis levels spot on but if you go budget don't expect the ride or handling to be great - you get what you pay for!
  12. Rear subframe brace options

    Downloaded the EG and DC2 workshop manuals from some other sites. As our cars are supposed to share so much with these chassis it seemed a good idea to add them to the library of tech info I've been gathering!
  13. Rear subframe brace options

    Well after a bit of research, I've found the following: From the Aerodeck workshop manual - From the DC2 Integra manual - So it appears that our cars LCA pickup points are 8mm narrower than the DC/EG At least I know how much I need to take off the brace on the milling machine!
  14. Rear subframe brace options

    Well I'm glad that this forum was able to help solve to problem as I thought I was fitting the brace incorrectly the first time. Instructions (yes I ended up reading them!) actually tell you the bolts will point inwards during fitting) but not the extent that these did.
  15. Rear subframe brace options

    Thanks for the replies guys, bit annoyed that Honda would have to mod the chassis but leave the rest of the EG parts alone. Time to get on the milling machine then! Also found that the rear calipers from our cars are Lucas not Nissin and as such are even so slightly different and won't mount to the brake upgrade I've got, so new calipers it needed to!
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