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  1. jan 2020. Got a bit of time so thaught I'd start another project thread document my progress with my latest honda. My last civic ended up quite a machine. But unfortunately I had to make the decision to let it go to buy a house. Once got my finances back on track. I really fancied another mb6 as always had a soft spot for them. A another member offered me a clean car so went on a bit of a road trip down south to pick it up. It has just had an engine rebuild fully documented with every receipt and ran sweet as a nut was very happy with it. Unfortunately it only made it 100 miles back towards the Midlands and the bottom end developed a knock. Was pretty p**sed off tbh. But what can I do.
  2. Hi guys, I'm looking into buying a HKB Boss for my Civic MB3 (1997). Does anyone have any information as to what boss will fit the spline for my specific model? I've seen a few people say it's the OH-206 DC2/EG boss but just want to make sure. Cheers
  3. I had a look at MBs on Auto Trader earlier today as I often do. There are currently only three advertised on there for sale in the entire UK. That was using the search criteria "Honda Civic, Years 1995 to 2000". With how many were around a few years ago, this suggests they are rapidly disappearing. I don't think I see as many on the road around London now as I did even 2 or 3 years ago.
  4. Hey guys, this is my aerodeck so far, I have some plans for the interior next month, so I'll keep you guys posted
  5. Hello there, just picked up an mb2 last week! I currently own an fn2 type r but needed something a little more sensible for family outings. I've fell in love with how the old girl looks and although a few things need doing (body wise) everything is great! I'm hoping to throw on the vti kit at some point! I've attached an image of how she looks right now, previous owner added a few personal choices to the car. Currently I have the original tape player installed but I'd much rather use a cd player, does anyone know what type I would need? how difficult is removing the tape player and installing a cd player on the mb? I'm used to driving much younger cars so I don't want to mess anything up in the mb! Knowing the vti and civic sport models are so much more desirable, how does the mb2 stand? just a base spec civic of the era or anything special about the mb2? I really have no idea on this generation civic lol thank you for reading, look forward to meeting fellow mb folk!
  6. Hi, I've had my MB6 for 3 years now and it has been stood for last 2 years. I just got the car out recently and got so much work to do, but first need to sort the leak on the roof and spare wheel area in boot. Both the roof and boot leaked ever since I got the car but I did manage to fix the roof leak but now it is leaking again and I never got to find the cause of boot leak. Here is what I have done so far. 3 years ago when I first got the car, I noticed the roof lining from front drivers side corner was wet. So I removed the roof lining, removed the sunroof drain tubes, poked a metal wire in. I then removed the roof strips and found a small hole on front driver side (where the roof lining was wet). So I applied lots of tiger seal to block the hole and also along the whole roof strip area on both sides then fitted back the roof strips. I never put back the roof lining and for a year and half my roof never leaked. I then moved onto the boot so removed the tail lights, removed the tail light seals and applied clear silicone on both sides then put back lights and tightened up. I also removed the rear bumper and applied silicone onto the vent/flap thing from outside and also inside. This still did not fix the leak onto the boot. Now 2 years later, after moving the car. I have found the rear half of my roof is wet and also the boot spare wheel area is rusty. I have examined the boot leak and I suspect it is leaking from two areas. On the passenger side, just next to vent/flap thing, there is what I believe it passenger rear sunroof drain tube which is where the leak starts from. There is also a little bit of rust around that area on the arch but the car has been parked up so I doubt it could be the arch. Are the sunroof drain tube prone to cracks over time? I have attached a picture to show you what I mean. Now on the driver side, it's difficult to explain but after lifting up the boot seal, I found a bit of rust which is where I think it may be leaking from. I removed the boot seal completely to check if there is any rust anywhere else but thankfully nope, just on where I suspect the leak is. I also noticed that my tailgate hinges are rusty and cracked, could it be that water is passing through them causing the rear half of my roof to leak? Any help would be appreciated
  7. Hello Guys Just thought i would give you an update on the ol' MB6 Project. Ive been very busy as of recent sourcing panels for the restoration. Im very chuffed to find some Genuine Body panels including the Whole Upper sill and rear outer arch. Alongside that i have also sourced some Rear inner arch Extension panels where the Sills Meet the Wheel Arch. Unfortunately the Lower/Inner Sill section was no where to be found alongside the front outriggers but thats not an issue at all. i will be starting to Fabricate some New Lower/Inner Sill sections as if you don't know already the Civic MA/MB has Three Segments to the lower sill. The First part being the Front Jacking point section which starts at the sill then wraps itself round the front chassis legs and subframe mounts. Then there is the Middle section where the Front seatbelts are Anchored to. This section is Spot welded to the floor pan to create a sandwich effect (lovely rust trap btw). The Panel Itself is an L Shape as it also forms apart of the inner sill as its all one pressing. Thankfully the rust has not spread up into the vertical section of the panel as the rust has only ate away at the lower part probably due to all the water being trapped there. and Finally the Last segment being the Rear Sill Extension assembly which contains the rear jacking points and the Semi Trailing arm bush mounting. With Fabricating these lower segments it is pretty simple Its just a 90 Degree bend with a flange where the outer skin is spot welded to. With Rover at the time having a Partnership with Honda Luckily the 400 and 45 is the same car in terms of bodywork pretty much. Hence why i have bought Rover sills and Rover Inner Arches (they're probably cheaper too) and they will do the same job. Part Numbers if needed ALA120220 for the Side Panel (do note the side panel is a saloon not a hatchback as they are no longer available.) ALX140020 and ALX140030 for the Rear inner arches. The idea will be to chop the sill segment and rear arch segment off the genuine panel and to replace what is the rotten part on my Civic. With this i can maintain the original pressings of the panel such as the grommet holes. Hopefully in the New year i can get round to producing the Inner sill segments to be used.
  8. Hey guys. I have a quick question I hope you can help me with. Do any of you know if the reverse light is placed opposite in RHD vs LHD on an Mb?
  9. Hi. I need to replace the suspension of my MB2. I'm thinking of putting KONI Sport from an EK, because there's no KONI for MBs anymore, and I want something a little sportier for him. Do you know if it will work well on the MB chassis? I don't want to put coilovers, because in portugal it's illegal and my MB2 is my daily car.
  10. Hi there, Hope everyone is good? My mechanic was telling me that he thought my 1998 1.4 MB D14A8 5Dr Civic is Ulez charge complaint for London driving as he thought Honda worked ahead of time to improve their engines emissions but the government TFL website says that it’s not compliant. I’m a bit confused about the issue, does anyone know how I can check if its compliant or not? The TFL website says that to prove its compliant I need to: “To prove your vehicle meets the ULEZ standards: A letter from the vehicle manufacturer's homologation department stating the vehicle's Euro standard or a conformity certificate” https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/compliance-registration/before-you-start I was trying to look in Hondas website and I just saw this page on COC’s which says if the car was made in the UK after 1995 you should be able to get a COC which are charged at £175. https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/certificate-conformity.html So am I being naive or is all I need to do, pay Honda £175 and get a COC from them and that should be enough to prove it’s Euro 4 compliant and then if TFL register the car then we’re all good and I can keep the running the car in London? Does having a COC mean that the car is automatically Euro 4 emission’s compliant? Or is that just one part of a bigger puzzle? Not really sure what to do, any ideas please Cheers
  11. Hi ya'll this is my "new" MB2 Civic. Just bought it two days ago, and it only got about 90.000 kilometres on it. It's still very stock aside from electric windows (that I wanna replace with Ganador mirrors). My first objective is to get new wheels/rims, like atleast 15 inch, and find the MB2 OEM spoiler (if that even exists), and if not find something else that would fit without looking too ''off''. Then I'm planning to get a shortshifter, perhaps some body work too like a lip kit (but don't know what will fit for sure... maybe anyone can help?). And as soon as it's looking clean, I want to perhaps replace d14 heads with d16 heads (maybe even turbo it afterwards), coilovers, and as last maybe wrap it or something. Cheers!
  12. Couldn't get into old account so started new one hope that ok. This my civic
  13. Hey guys Im in need of some help. I recently bought an Mb6 in Germany and i'm having it inspected on monday. But now, the fog light bulb on the right side is out. Got 2 new ones but im lost on how to replace them. I've seen pictures of it without the black cover around it and was wondering how do I get them of so i can change the bulbs. Hope you can help
  14. Good day, i am interested in bushing numbers for the rear anti roll bar on my MB3. I would like to get the real OEM article numbers, thank you
  15. Hi all, been a while since I've been on the forums, not sure if people still use them but I'll try my luck anyway. So I have an mb6 vti in which the original b18c4 engine was removed due to bottom end knock. I stored the car away until I find a replacement engine. Fast forward 2 years, progress has been really slow due to covid, losing job etc other commitments in life so I've been driving eg civic which was d16z6 auto, I recently broke the car due to failing mot on rust. Still not able to get a replacement b18c4 engine due to too much going on in life, I came up with an idea what if I do d16z6 swap in mb6, I know it sounds silly but it's not a hard swap considering it is obd 1 vtec and I just wanted to get the car moving as I hated it been sat there doing nothing. So I actually went and fitted the d16z6 into the mb6. Was pretty much an easy swap, got the car started too. Only issue is the speed sensor plug does not fit because it is for auto and now I've got manual gearbox. I used the manual gearbox from mb2 and used clutch and flywheel. However I have an issue with the car not engaging into gear. I'm able to select gears but the car won't move, not even at bite point, doesn't even stall if I let off clutch pedal in gear. Would this be due to using a used clutch kit because I'm sure I was told I can use it. It was only meant to be a temp solution until I get the car moted and sort everything else out and then do a proper build such as turbo. I really hate having to take off the gearbox again and possibly again to fit uprated clutch kit depending car passes mot. What could be the issue?
  16. Hello just wondering if someone can confirm the mb4 (d16w4) v mb6 (b18c4) I believe? Subframes are the same? Currently im aware the mb6 subframe is the same as the eg subframe minus the spacers? Only reason im asking this is because im currently building a k20 civic ek and an mb4 subframe has popped up locally and just wanting to know if that would fit my EK too? Any help appreciated as ive searched online and this forum may be my only hope! Thanks, Ryan
  17. I tried to change the original PCV valve with a new aftermarket one (cheap). It was hard to remove the old one and it cracked in two pieces. I got it all out eventually while very frustrating. Putting the new one was surprisingly hard too. I did attach it to the hose surprisingly easily but it was hard to press the new valve back into the hole. There's no space so hard to apply any strengh. I'm not sure if it's all the way down. It looks pretty good but i think it could be a little off. The aftermarket valves rubber part was a bit longer than in the old OEM one. Maybe that makes it hard too. Anyway tried to start the car after all the work and i think the idling is a bit off. It could be running lean or rich if i installed it wrong... There is some smell and exhaust gas smells a bit rich too although i always had trouble with emissions/car running too rich. Also the car is using oil so that's also the reason for trying to change pcv valve. I haven't test driven yet but i'm afraid i could've made things worse. Might have to take the car to a car mechanic. Tried to save some money by doing it myself because the valve is in a bad spot in these engines as you may know. Is it harmful to the engine if i installed it badly? Is running rich or lean harmful to engine? When i pressed the gas pedal at idle it didnt sound healthy/strong. Choking sounds and hesitating sound but the pedal feel was normal. Should i try to drive the car or let someone take a look?
  18. my d14z4 intake manifold broke so i would like to put another one that wasn't plastic. what other intake manifold are compatible?
  19. Hi everyone. I've been lurking here for a couple of years now, had a tired MB3 as my introduction to the 5th gen civics, even for a s**tbox i loved it. So here I am 2 years later with an mc1 aerodeck daily drive and i've just recently bagged a MB9 Aerodeck which i'm going to clean up and possibly engine swap down the line. Heres the old beast the day i got it home. (and yes thats the old mb3 to the left, now a generous organ donor!) I paid £300 in the end. I viewed it late one evening so couldnt get a good look underneath but after poking around the next morning i could only find one tiny spot of rust under the drivers footwell. All the sills and wheel arches are somehow spotless! Really cuffed wit that so on with the first job... The drivers door had been bent round knackering it, plus the hinges and wing panel, i've got my old mb3 as a donor car so swapping them out was a must before the winter weather leaks into the interior. Aligning the door to fit smoothly was a pain and its not quite perfect yet but it at least shuts and seals out the rain better than before. I have a cleaned up dent free wing to go on too. --- I wasn't sure where to go from here, with the weather changing I thought getting the suspension and brakes stripped made most sense as i can clean up and refurb them indoors! After a good clean and sand I gave everything a few coats of 'Buzzweld Rust Encapsulator' I've been using it for a few years on the underside of my vehicles, it's great stuff and seems to keep the rot at bay, highly recommend them for paint. Waiting on black topcoat to arrive. --- Eventually suspension will go back on with new wheel bearings, ball joints, upper control arms and new hardware. The bushes all look ok to leave for now. With regards to coilovers, is anyone running the cheapo £300 ebay specials? Are they awful? I've got 2nd hand MG shocks on my daily, made such a difference to the ride I might just look out for another set for this build. --- That's it for now, more to come after payday!
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